Veloster Turbo Forum banner

Need to replace Brake Pads

26K views 42 replies 17 participants last post by  Hulk 
#1 ·
Hey guys i can do most things on my car however im a newbie when it comes to brakes


now i need new brake pads cause mine are starting to skretch.

what do i need to look at for replacements, anything specific for our V's ?
 
#2 ·
Disc brake pads are EASY compared to the old days with drums... My previous car, a friend helped and when it came time to the back brakes, he was telling me, "Now, okay, becareful of the spring because...." and SPROING! There went the spring. We spent more time looking for that damn thing than we did with the brakes!

Today, it's been several years but I think other than normal tools (screwdriver, band-aids, and beer, lots of beer), about the only thing you need is a vice clamp so that you can depress the caliper to relieve the pressure on the pad. Pop it out, put the new one on and take off the clamp. No bleeding of the brake lines, no springs shooting off to the other side of the yard, etc.

Disclaimer: This is a memory from several years back and may be distorted due to getting older and/or the consumption of many adult beverages during the brake changing process and since then. The procedures may have changed since then; along with my underwear (a few times, at least), the weather, and my mind.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2mtech and OzzyDee
#3 ·
Yes, the rear brakes are more complex due to the mechanical emergency brake system.

It's very important to use the manual for the rear brake pad exchange.

The front brakes are not so tricky.

Keep in mind that when you compress the caliper pistons, you are in

effect, pumping all/any trash that accumulated in the caliper back

into the line and possibly back as far as the master cylinder.

***
 
#6 ·
Yes, the rear brakes are more complex due to the mechanical emergency brake system.

It's very important to use the manual for the rear brake pad exchange.

The front brakes are not so tricky.

Keep in mind that when you compress the caliper pistons, you are in

effect, pumping all/any trash that accumulated in the caliper back

into the line and possibly back as far as the master cylinder.


***
Okay...this is actually pretty close to BS

Then there is the brake fluid thing. IMHO, the last thing you want to do is mess with the brake fluid or bleed the system unless you absolutely have to do that. New cars can go through 4+ brake jobs with the master cylinder and slave cylinders in the calipers working fine and requiring no brake fluid maintenance. The previous poster mentioned the danger of pushing dirt and debris back in to the system when spreading the calipers. That is true but the system is just that little piece of hydraulic brake line. If you've got a Porsche, Ferrari or even an STi or EVO - yeah you probably want to purge the whole system every time with racing grade hydraulic fluid. That's a very expensive pain that can also damage your brake cylinders by making them run dry at first.

If the fluid in your brake reservoir looks good, your brake pedal feels sharp and the calipers spread smoothly using that special tool, I would not mess with the brake fluid or bleeding the brakes at all.
Then it gets passed on again.... STOP, please.

Unless you have a torn/broken/missing/loose caliper piston dust boot AND a bad seal around your caliper piston this will NOT HAPPEN. And if those two things are indeed present, you're losing brake fluid anyways.
 
#4 ·
If you put new pads on worn, scoured rotors, the scouring will rip the new pads to pieces in no time. So to get your money's worth the rotors should be machined to remove any scouring, assuming that this doesn't take the rotor to less than minimum thickness. Mostly it does, so these days new pads usually means new pads and new rotors.

Because of the ESP you should only fit stock brake pads.
 
#5 ·
Changing disc brake pads is pretty straightforward as long as you have a good jack, and the generic spreader tool.

The thinking on the rotors has changed over the years. It used to be that rotors were expensive and every shop had a special lathe to cut or resurface them and the rotors could be cut several times before they had to be replaced. These days very few shops have that rotor lathe and new rotors come pre-cut and cost a lost less. So now replacing the rotors is kind of standard.

However, if you replace the pads well before they wear out and the rotors look OK I think it's OK to just replace the pads.

But in your case you're hearing the wear indicator noise, so you need to address your rotors. You have 2 choices, either cut your rotors or replace them. If you're doing the brake job yourself you need to be able to take your rotors to a shop that can cut them. This means having your car down while this is being done and having a second car to drive the rotors back and forth to the rare shop that can cut them. Or you can order fresh rotors and do the complete brake job in one pass. If you are new to working on cars I would just order new rotors and replace them too. It's more fun that way and it gives you the confidence that everything is correct.

Then there is the brake fluid thing. IMHO, the last thing you want to do is mess with the brake fluid or bleed the system unless you absolutely have to do that. New cars can go through 4+ brake jobs with the master cylinder and slave cylinders in the calipers working fine and requiring no brake fluid maintenance. The previous poster mentioned the danger of pushing dirt and debris back in to the system when spreading the calipers. That is true but the system is just that little piece of hydraulic brake line. If you've got a Porsche, Ferrari or even an STi or EVO - yeah you probably want to purge the whole system every time with racing grade hydraulic fluid. That's a very expensive pain that can also damage your brake cylinders by making them run dry at first.

If the fluid in your brake reservoir looks good, your brake pedal feels sharp and the calipers spread smoothly using that special tool, I would not mess with the brake fluid or bleeding the brakes at all.
 
#8 ·
mate be honest im happy with oem i just wanted to know if theres something better thats affordable my cousin was telling me hes going to get me brake pads so i wanted to know is there specific brands and makes for the v, that were able to use
 
#9 ·
The VT is so new that the stock pads are probably the only ones available. Given how well the stock VT brakes work the stock pads are fine.

If you are hearing the screech than your rotors might be compromised.

All brake pads have a layer of material that make a screeching sound so you know to replace them before they wear out. But that means your rotors might be getting dogged out too.

If you are a new enthusiast, I highly recommend doing a brake job yourself as a good introduction to working on cars. It's a dirty job but it's a good job. If you have any doubts you should definitely replace the rotors at the same time. Brake jobs are fun and very satisfying - and a fresh set of rotors lets you stomp on the VT's brakes all that much harder.
 
#10 ·
Ok, just in case the OP decides to handle doing their own brakes.....simple steps after install to make sure they're bedded in properly so you can enjoy them sooner. Yes, this means do not make your first stop from 100mph to zero!!

Once you have the brake pads (and or rotors) installed and are ready to drive.... Get the car up to 35mph and gently slow the car to 5mph, but do not come to a stop. Then get back up to 35mph and do the same step again. I recommend these two steps be completed at a minimum before actually making and full stops. If you like, you can continue the 35-5mph slow downs a couple more time with increased pedal pressure just to be sure they're properly seated. After you've made at least two 35-5mph decels, you can do a 35/40-0 stop with moderate braking force. Then....enjoy your new brakes. Typical recommendation would still be to take it easy in them for the first 500miles or so...but if you've bedded the pads properly, you don't have to take it easy for that long.

If you chose to do anything close to a race pad for some reason, let us know so we can tell you how to properly bed those in if they don't come with instructions.

Have fun & good luck!
 
#11 ·
I'm just over 35k miles on the VT and though there is no screeching, I'm getting ready to do the brakes. You could just do the pads but you need to look closely at the rotors to make sure they're not compromised. My intentions are to order new rotors and pads from Piercemotorsports.
Rotors
2012-2013 Hyundai Veloster and Veloster Turbo Performance Rotors

Pads
Piercemotorsports VTRS4 Performance front Brake Pads for Veloster Turbo

And I might even go the next step and get these, but Likely go to a local brake shop for the lines to be installed.
Hyundai Veloster Performance Stainless Braided Brake lines


PS. I think the factory brakes are fine and have no objections using factory replacement parts. Import shark also has rotors if you are interested.
Suspension/Brakes, importshark.com

I know that EBC also makes pads and rotors for the VT, but I couldn't find my link.
 
#12 ·
So if I were to do the Pierce upgraded rotors, is it still recommended to replace them every brake job? Seems pretty expensive...
 
#13 ·
Depends on a couple things...the physical condition of the rotor at the time of pad replacement, the ability if a machine shop to be able to resurface them, and of course your own personal choice.

They used to say cross-drilled rotors should never be resurfaced. This idea has actually changed, however some manufacturers of rotors still recommend against it.

I just replace my rotors when I replace the pads, if I use slotted/dimpled/drilled rotors. Yes it's a more expensive brake job, but I will always have the best possible surface for my pads to bed into as well as the most rotor thickness and surface area to dissipate heat.
 
#14 ·
I'll probably get stoned for this, but...

Resurfacing is not always required.
Sometimes rotor wear is not significant enough to require resurfacing, however it is really a case-by-case decision. However, you should always assume that you will need to replace or resurface.
 
#20 ·
VELOSTER(FS) >2013 > G 1.6 T-GDI > Brake System
Removal
1.
Remove the front wheel & tire.
Tightening torque:
88.3 ~ 107.9 N.m (9.0 ~ 11.0 kgf.m, 65.1 ~79.6 lb-ft)

2.
Loosen the hose eyebolt (C) and caliper mounting bolts (B), then remove the front caliper assembly (A).
Tightening torque:
Brake hose to caliper (C):
24.5 ~ 29.4 N.m (2.5 ~ 3.0 kgf.m, 18.1 ~ 21.7 lb-ft)
Caliper assembly to knuckle (B):
78.5 ~ 98.1 N.m (8.0 ~ 10.0 kgf.m, 57.9 ~ 72.3
Line art White Drawing Auto part Black-and-white
A3.
Remove the front brake disc by loosening the screws (A). Auto part Vehicle brake Automotive brake part Automotive super charger part Clutch part


Front Brake Pads
1.
Loosen the guide rod bolt (B) and pivot the caliper (A) up out of the way.
Tightening torque:
21.6 ~ 31.4 N.m (2.2 ~ 3.2 kgf.m, 15.9 ~ 23.1 lb-ft)
Line art Auto part Diagram Automotive engine part Drawing


2.

Replace pad shim (D), pad retainers (C) and brake pads (B) in the caliper carrier (A).
Auto part Line art Automotive engine part Automotive super charger part Technical drawing


Brake disc thickness
Standard: 23 mm (0.906 in)
Service limit: 21.4 mm (0.842 in)
Deviation: Less than 0.005 mm (0.0002 in)
 
#21 ·
Hyundai says bleed brakes you do not have too. I would if I could, but not always necessary.
 
#22 ·
Bleeding brakes isn't hard if you know what you're doing and preferrably have someone helping, but pushing the cylinders back and then pumping them forward shouldn't get air in the system (where could the air come from?). Brake fluid should be replaced every two years anyway because it's hydroscopic, and it absorbs atmospheric humidity through the rubber hoses and seals, and once you get water in the fluid it lowers the boiling point and it can cause corrosion. It is a simple job and it took me less than an hour on my wife's car just the other week (you spend more time removing and replacing wheels than doing the brakes, but it's a good chance to check everything out underneath the car at the same time).

My experience of dealer workshops in Australia is that even though the maintenance schedule highlights that brake fluid should be changed every two years, they never, ever do it.
 
#23 · (Edited)
bleeding brakes isn't hard if you know what you're doing and preferrably have someone helping, but pushing the cylinders back and then pumping them forward shouldn't get air in the system (where could the air come from?). Brake fluid should be replaced every two years anyway because it's hydroscopic, and it absorbs atmospheric humidity through the rubber hoses and seals, and once you get water in the fluid it lowers the boiling point and it can cause corrosion. It is a simple job and it took me less than an hour on my wife's car just the other week (you spend more time removing and replacing wheels than doing the brakes, but it's a good chance to check everything out underneath the car at the same time).

My experience of dealer workshops in australia is that even though the maintenance schedule highlights that brake fluid should be changed every two years, they never, ever do it.
hygroscopic!!!!!!


Edit: why and how did bleeding the brakes come into this?? This person hasn't ever replaced brake pads before. Bleeding your brakes is NOT required when doing a brake pad replacement, especially the first one, unless your car is more than two years old. Even then I probably wouldn't worry too terribly much about it unless I'm tracking the vehicle or beating hard on my brakes all the time.
 
#27 ·
Because someone that "thinks" they know what's going in interjects it.

For the OP: Let's make it simple....if you like the way the car brakes from Factory, go buy Hyundai brake pads and either Hyundai rotors, or decent aftermarket replacement rotors.

If you didn't like the factory brakes, then the only thing left to do roll the dice on finding an aftermarket pad that YOU'RE happy with...not what everyone else says they're happy with, because we all have different opinions.

TaaaDaaa!!! End of story, please come again.
 
#29 ·
Moral of the thread: Replace brake pads, rotors if needed. Do not bleed brakes.
 
#30 ·
Wildhare...do you know total fluid amount to bleed/flush stock system for better/synthetic brake fluid..? I'm going to be doing Amsoil 600 DOT4 and stainless braided lines and wanna know if I'll need more than 2 bottles (12oz bottles) to flush out the factory fluid.
 
#35 ·
Brake fluid is a regular replacement part. Especially if you do any spirited driving. As mentioned the fluid will adsorb water, and the water will diminish the effectiveness of the fluid. Additionally bringing the fluid to the boiling point will also compromise the boiling point of the fluid (lower it).
This is why race teams will change out the fluid after every race.
For a street driven car there is less of a concern as 95% of your stopping is done at a moderate pace. And even panic stopping is done as a single burst. So compromised fluid is hardly noticed.
However, if you care about your car and care about your family it's something that should be addressed as a regular care item. If you race or drive at 10/10 upgrading to a better fluid and replacing it often is a must.
 
#37 ·
You only need to bleed brakes if there is air in the lines, and pushing back the caliper cylinders to replace the pads will not get air in the lines. So you don't need to bleed the brakes (only if the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir gets low to let air in, or you disconnect something).
 
#42 ·
You shouldn't have to bleed the brake system under normal circumstances. I've done dozens of brake jobs without introducing any air in to the system or requiring any bleeding.

If you want to replace the brake fluid every time it will take a lot more effort and risk. It is essentially a full brake rebuild and you have to disassemble the master cylinder and slave cylinders in the calipers. Only the brake fluid that travels back and forth with the pistons is subject to contamination. Bleeding the brake lines between the bleeder valves only replaces the fluid that is not subject to wear or contamination.

In order to remove the bits of brake fluid where the pistons operate you have to take the pistons apart, clean them out and then refill them with brake fluid when reassembling them. That can be really tricky for two reasons. If you get any brake fluid past the pistons they won't work properly because they can't compress the fluid. If you don't fully fill the piston assembly with brake fluid you can get an air bubble that can be difficult or impossible to bleed because it's past the bleed valve.

Also, the piston rebuild kits - which consist mainly of O rings - are relatively cheap. Anytime that you have the pistons apart you might as well rebuild them while you are there.
 
#43 ·
Hi guys,

Hyundai service wants to charge AU$159 for front fitted pads.
Where did you guys get your stock front brake pads from?
I'm in Sydney btw
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top