TiAL Q Spring

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TiAL Q Spring

This is a discussion on TiAL Q Spring within the Veloster Turbo Problems / Help forums, part of the Veloster Turbo Forum category; I recently got myself a FMIC and a TiAL Q BOV, but in the local shop that I got my TiAL Q the guy didn't ...

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Thread: TiAL Q Spring

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    Question TiAL Q Spring

    I recently got myself a FMIC and a TiAL Q BOV, but in the local shop that I got my TiAL Q the guy didn't even bother to help me pick out the correct spring for my setup, since I got a good deal on the BOV I just took it and started looking online as to how could I find the correct spring for me.
    I did find a few posts here talking about the TiaL Q but reading those posts just was not very consistent as to how to pick mine. I did a quick measurement on my vacuum levels, with my tok app, and i'm not sure how accurate this would be but I saw it fluctuated from 19.5 to 20 in/Hg (mostly stable at 20) at idle and around 22 in/Hg when release of the pedal (the car was not in movement and I did not leave the foot all the way on the gas).

    With these numbers I went to the official chart from the TiAL website:

    http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w3_tial_qqr_sp.pdf

    and this is where I kind of got stuck....
    I see in the chart that for a measurement of 20 at idle I could use the 11 psi spring or I could go lower and get the 10 psi that would lean towards the 19 measurement. Also the other thing that bothers me is that I haven't read of anyone that I could find, that has used a 11 psi spring on stock turbo on the VT. Also I read from one of the turbosocks documents and I quote "the Veloster is at around 17 in/hg if I recall." I know he didn't intend to have an accurate reading but it kind of makes me think that the measurement on my tork app might be wrong since a 3 unit difference would make a big impact when choosing the spring.
    I am honestly stuck and i'm not sure how to proceed with this, can anyone give me some advice or share their experience with a TiAL Q on the stock turbo?

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    Gaijiin is probably your guy for this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by -X- View Post
    Read this and decide whether you should swap the Q for the QRJ or not.

    TiAL QRJ BOV review | TimmySpec Racing Products
    <3 <3 <3 Watkins Glen. Growing up in PA, this was my first exposure to racing back in the late 70s.

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    Thanks for the link x, it definitely sounds like i should have gone with the QRJ in the first place but i'm not sure if I could just go in and swap the bov for the other model at the shop that I bought it.... I will certainly try though.
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    I have a Tial Q. Ive been running it for over 2 years now with the white spring. I tried all 4 versions and the white works the best for my car. Even though the chart calls for a tighter spring due to vacuum levels the white worked for me. I made a new charge pipe first when I had the stock intercooler and ran that for a few moths back in 2013. In August 2013 I installed an 845 FMIC.

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    Call TORK,..explain your tune level. Estimating vacuum levels is not the best way to approach this. My "Q" is incredible,...no it does not just dump everything. It is markedly superior to the previous race HKS.

    I had Hyund guys measure my vac levels,...in operation.

    OR---- you can call TIAL directly in Mich,...they will guide you as far as the spring. They will definitely steer you away from any "pre-load" scenario I guarantee it. Trust them,..you will be happy you did.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaijiin View Post
    Call TORK,..explain your tune level. Estimating vacuum levels is not the best way to approach this. My "Q" is incredible,...no it does not just dump everything. It is markedly superior to the previous race HKS.

    I had Hyund guys measure my vac levels,...in operation.

    OR---- you can call TIAL directly in Mich,...they will guide you as far as the spring. They will definitely steer you away from any "pre-load" scenario I guarantee it. Trust them,..you will be happy you did.
    I emailed TiAL directly to see if they could help me out, they just asked for my vacuum level at idle when the car is already warmed up. With my Tork app I registered 19.2 - 19.5 in/Hg pretty much stable this time, as for now that is the only way I could get my vacuum levels measured, so I just went ahead and sent them that data. As for my tune i'm stock tuned with stock turbo for now (I will install a FMIC with the BOV and I have a super shorty intake from 845 coming in the mail), but in the future I plan on getting at least a 1.5 tune (with all the other mods needed) and change up the turbo. By the way I didn't get a vac-block for the BOV, would I need to install one on the VT?

    Another question I do know that the A/C on puts on some stress on the engine and makes the vacuum levels drop significantly, does this affect in any way the performance of the BOV?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROOTKILL View Post
    I emailed TiAL directly to see if they could help me out, they just asked for my vacuum level at idle when the car is already warmed up. With my Tork app I registered 19.2 - 19.5 in/Hg pretty much stable this time, as for now that is the only way I could get my vacuum levels measured, so I just went ahead and sent them that data. As for my tune i'm stock tuned with stock turbo for now (I will install a FMIC with the BOV and I have a super shorty intake from 845 coming in the mail), but in the future I plan on getting at least a 1.5 tune (with all the other mods needed) and change up the turbo. By the way I didn't get a vac-block for the BOV, would I need to install one on the VT?

    Another question I do know that the A/C on puts on some stress on the engine and makes the vacuum levels drop significantly, does this affect in any way the performance of the BOV?
    1. You absolutely need the vac block to operate the TIAL,.....any mark of TIAL.
    2. Having said that there is a correct progression to this:
    A. Procure parts i.e. Tial valve,...vac block,..full 1/4 ID high quality non-collapsable vac line.(Proper spring).
    B. Get your TORK tune,..and have him specifically tune yu for the vac block. He will need to make your boost targets much more accurate.

    Then and only then do you install it all. You kind of have the cart before the horse here.

    ***Its not a matter of opinion,..its a matter of fact. Setup right this valve is much more capable,..and the setup with the vac block IS more responsive than the stupid solenoid. I've had both,..its better. AAAAAAnd I'm running it with 29 plus psi peaks. So the whole over-boost bull crap doesnt hold water,...IF YOU ARE TUNED FOR THE SETUP.

    Crap-ass boost hack off the solenoid= ka-boom. YES.
    ****SO IF YOU ARE A NEW GUY WITH A STOCK SETUP,................... DONT READ THIS!!! LOL.....

    Just think,...in about a week and a half,......no more 29 psi,..it will be like 20 or 21. (But with a 280 whp AT tune!!!!!OMG).

    If you cant get an answer PM me I'll make sure you get the right spring.
    Last edited by Gaijiin; 06-25-2015 at 12:17 PM.
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