Need to remove/replace studs in back of turbo. Those that have done this or had done, what is the best approach for doing so? Turbo on or off the motor?
Need to fix asap to install better elbow/dp and get rid of this exhaust leak.
i would say take off the turbo... ive done this already... when i installed my 845 downpipe i broke a stud by accident...
took the turbo off and brought it to a machine shop where they drilled and retapped the stud hole and i threaded in a new stud... when i reinstalled everything i used liberal amounts of antiseeze... some say because of the immense heat, antiseeze wont survive but only time will tell whenever i need to take the turbo off again...
i figured the best approach would be do soak a paper towel with PB blaster or the like and put it into the socket so as you loosen the bolt, the lubricant soaked towel will continually get the stud and bolt wet to keep it cool and keep breaking up rust as you loosen it.
this worked very well when i removed my downpipe again after a few weeks of running it to wrap it with DEI titanium
oh and when you are loosening the bolt, if it starts to get tight and harder to turn, reverse direction and then spray the stud threads with lubricant i.e. pb blaster etc. then slowly try again
When I jacked mine up the very at the dealer used bolts instead of studs. He had to cut the stud and drill it out and retap the hole. They did the same thing (minus the drilling part) when they replaced the engine and turbo. Make sure to use some loctite. That shit will vibrate off.
No luck on my studs. All 3 broke off and none can be removed by double nut method or stud extractor. Having to drill them out and tap holes for studs to be replaced.....
Update on downpipe. 2016 with 5k miles came off without breaking studs. Guy working on it at shop thought I had a leak from the penetrating lube I sprayed two days prior. Should get back tomorrow.
Good deal... lower the mileage the better.... sorry to hear about that Trdtoy ... i had two snap... had to be drilled as well... guy went through two carbide bits.
Figured this is as good of a place as any to ask, the search doesn't pull up much on this.
But....
Why are the studs so hard to remove? is it the lack of anti sieze on the studs, some sort of weird crimp style nut that gauls up the threads, improper installation?
I used to work on engine exhausts the size of a 55 gallon drums in diameter and very seldom had issues unbolting exhausts that get well into the 1,000 degree range.
The only time there were issues were when either anti sieze was not used or when stainless bolts/nuts were impacted on.
Reason I ask is because when I do finally get a down pipe I'll most likely have a shop install it but still want to avoid the issues of galled studs for if and when I may need to swap it back out (warranty, sell the car...etc). The install is something I'd normally have no issue doing myself but with all this broken stud talk I may pass it on to someone else.
Oxidation and heat cycling. Temps get upwards of 1800°F.
Apply penetrating lube of your choice liberally for a day or two before. Use correct leverage/positioning and the nuts will come off without breakage. Hot nut and cool stud method is another alternative. Patience is key.
Small studs(8 mm), weakening over time from weathering and heat cycling, crimped nuts used, no antiseize type product used by oem.
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