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Code P0033?

This is a discussion on Code P0033? within the Veloster Turbo Problems / Help forums, part of the Veloster Turbo Forum category; Originally Posted by geekdragon Just a thought, but I would expect "not holding boost" would lead to a lot a extra air whooshing noise. A ...

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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by geekdragon View Post
    Just a thought, but I would expect "not holding boost" would lead to a lot a extra air whooshing noise. A limp-mode "not making boost" far less so.
    That should be easy to observe using Torque. The waste gate duty cycle will be pretty near 100% all the time in limp mode.
    2016 VT-DCT, Tech PKG
    HP/TQ: Stock 170/190, Tuned 200/213
    Performance:SXTH 3.5" CAI, SXTH PCV OCC, Mishimoto Breather OCC, Throttle coolant bypass, 2nd CAT delete, Uniq Performance Strut bar, Pierce Torsion Bar, ORHP by -X-, High Capacity BOV Solenoid, HKS M40XL Plugs, TurboXS BOV
    Lights:DD HID 5K low beams, DD Turn as Tail, modified reverse lights, Brake light pulser, DD LED Throughout, LaminX yellow fogs
    Electronics:Homelink mirror, Escort Max2, 1080P Car Cam, OBDLink LX and Torque Pro

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    Quote Originally Posted by lokitwitch04 View Post
    I know why the code is popping up. The main question I'm asking is, is my car going into limp mode when the code is up?
    How's your mpg while the code is on? Bad mpg is a good indicator if the car is actually going into limp mode becaise it dumps fuel. Usually a boost leak you can hear but one where your only making 2 psi would throw a code and likely put the car in limp mode. Personally, I'd remove the elbow and/or spacer.

    Too many parts to list: My build thred.

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    Code P0033?

    The Q is better for larger turbos running high boost and sucks when modulating the throttle under varying conditions (road racing, canyon carving autocrossing, etc). If you insist on TiAL, the QRJ is a better option.

    http://timmyspec.com/?p=71

    Also, the Q is a radial design (requires maintenance more often) while the QRJ is a directional design (aim it towards the rear to reduce dust/dirt accumulation).
    Last edited by E9C900A; 03-23-2017 at 05:00 AM.

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    Aside from that, yes, you're in limp mode.

    P0033 is regarding the valve control circuit, meaning the RCV control solenoid.

    Clear the DTC. Double-check your solenoid connections. If all good, then the vacuum source isn't strong enough, in which case you'll want to add a vacuum reservoir or wait until your new spring arrives.

    Replacing the factory RCV control solenoid with a MAC solenoid kit is recommended, along with replacing the 39300-2G000 MAP sensor with a 39300-84400 BPS.

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    I'm getting the feeling this will be one of those threads where after 5 pages of everyone giving tips the OP comes in and says "it looks like I forgot to connect the control cable to the solenoid".
    geekdragon likes this.
    2016 VT-DCT, Tech PKG
    HP/TQ: Stock 170/190, Tuned 200/213
    Performance:SXTH 3.5" CAI, SXTH PCV OCC, Mishimoto Breather OCC, Throttle coolant bypass, 2nd CAT delete, Uniq Performance Strut bar, Pierce Torsion Bar, ORHP by -X-, High Capacity BOV Solenoid, HKS M40XL Plugs, TurboXS BOV
    Lights:DD HID 5K low beams, DD Turn as Tail, modified reverse lights, Brake light pulser, DD LED Throughout, LaminX yellow fogs
    Electronics:Homelink mirror, Escort Max2, 1080P Car Cam, OBDLink LX and Torque Pro

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    Could be...

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    Quote Originally Posted by E9C900A View Post
    The Q is better for larger turbos running high boost and sucks when modulating the throttle under varying conditions (road racing, canyon carving autocrossing, etc). If you insist on TiAL, the QRJ is a better option.

    TiAL QRJ BOV review | TimmySpec Racing Products

    Also, the Q is a radial design (requires maintenance more often) while the QRJ is a directional design (aim it towards the rear to reduce dust/dirt accumulation).
    Whats your experience with the piston driven BOV's like the TurboXS. How often would you say they need to be serviced? When I put mine back on I lubed all the grommet areas with a thin film of slip2000 (high temp gun oil) and used liquid gasket on the bottom of the BOV and the bottom of the IC spacer. Haven't had an under boost since then so I think that was where I was leaking under high boost.
    2016 VT-DCT, Tech PKG
    HP/TQ: Stock 170/190, Tuned 200/213
    Performance:SXTH 3.5" CAI, SXTH PCV OCC, Mishimoto Breather OCC, Throttle coolant bypass, 2nd CAT delete, Uniq Performance Strut bar, Pierce Torsion Bar, ORHP by -X-, High Capacity BOV Solenoid, HKS M40XL Plugs, TurboXS BOV
    Lights:DD HID 5K low beams, DD Turn as Tail, modified reverse lights, Brake light pulser, DD LED Throughout, LaminX yellow fogs
    Electronics:Homelink mirror, Escort Max2, 1080P Car Cam, OBDLink LX and Torque Pro

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    I didn't touch my turbo xs from 5k to 20k. Wasn't really dirty when I took it apart. I just put a thin film of mobil 1 synthetic grease on everything. I'll probably just do it once a year now.

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    Havent had a chance to go out and mess with the car as I had to work late yesterday. The reason the incorrect spring is in the BOV is because they sent me the wrong Spring and I had to send it back and wait for the new one. I knew I would get a CEL on cold start, but didn't realize it put your car in limp mode. This is not a daily driver so its not a huge deal. I am going to let the car warm up clear the code and take it for a drive. Hopefully with full boost. There was no loud wooshing sound during acceleration which is why I ask the original question. Nothing is unplugged that was checked before I posted my original question. Not sure on MPG as I drove it for about 2 miles and the whole time it wasn't building boost. Yes, I let the car warm up before I drove it. I was watching all the oil burn off the exhaust and making sure there were no fluid leaks.

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    I prefer the piston-based designs and specifically the Synapse DV design.

    The piston-based OEM replacement valves such as the TurboXS SML Hybrid and the TurboSmart Kompact VR02 appear to be fairly well-protected against exposure to incoming dirty air.

    Checking once every six months should be more than sufficient, unless you notice degradation of valve performance earlier. YMMV.

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