So, anyone else's rear pads just fall apart????

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So, anyone else's rear pads just fall apart????

This is a discussion on So, anyone else's rear pads just fall apart???? within the Veloster Brakes forums, part of the Veloster Turbo Garage category; My Car is about 100mils shy of 50k, still on factory brakes.... the other day when I was almost home I started hearing the rear ...

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Thread: So, anyone else's rear pads just fall apart????

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    So, anyone else's rear pads just fall apart????

    My Car is about 100mils shy of 50k, still on factory brakes.... the other day when I was almost home I started hearing the rear brakes making a grinding/grone sound when applying the brakes... I knew it was getting time to replace them... So this Saturday I put new brakes all the way around.. well I did the pass rear first... when I removed one of the pads, the brake material was completely separated from the metal backing. And the wear indicator that is suppose to grind on the rotor to make noise was close to touching yet, so brakes still had miles left on them, if they weren't falling part. So I then go to the drivers side rear, and same thing, but it was both this time, and it was even worse, the material was broken in pieces….

    The front were fine, still had many miles to go it looks like, but I changed them anyway... then I flush the brake fluid, and bleed all the brakes and the clutch... Did have a hell of a time getting the new front pads in thought... I got all powerstop pads, the there high performance ones for the front... they came with all new metal clips... but man were they hard to get in, I've never had that much trouble with pads in my life... also clean all the old grease of the sliders and re-lubed them... so should be good for another 50k I hope...
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    I did my fronts a month or so ago at about 60k miles, and rears last weekend at 65k.
    I didn't have them fall apart the way you described them, but they were in much worse shape than I was expecting.
    Since the fronts do so much more work, I was shocked to see the rear looking that bad after only 5k miles more.

    I did stoptech slotted rotors and pads (sounds like the same ones as you KenDawg).

    Two notes:
    1 - The rear brakes require the brake cylinder compression kit / spanner tool thingy.
    2 - Fu*k those philips heads holding the rotors on. Of course they're going to freaking rust. Wtf Hyundai.
    Use this if you don't want to drill them out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    If you drill them out, Home Depot does have exact replacements of the flat heads. They don't really do anything except hold the rotor on while you're mounting everything else up.
    Incognito and RPW00Mirage like this.

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    yeah, my rotors were fine so I didn't need to take them off, but I hear you on the screws that hold the rotors on... had issues with them on other cars... no need to put that crap back on anyway, I think they only do that to keep the rotor on while going down the assembly line... once the caliber is on it's not going no where...

    I'm wondering if my rear pads were broken due to the parking brake hanging up sometimes if the car sits a day or 2 after being in rain... they usually will make a little pop when you start to move when they release... I've read were the earlier models had a recall for this... I cleaned everything good and lubed the sliders ect... so we will see... but yeah, usually the rears last twice as long as the front...

    I did already have the little square brake tool that you use a 3/8 ratchet to screw the rear piston in.. so I had no issue there...

    did you have any problems getting the front pads into the clips? damn things were a supper tight to get in..
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenDawg View Post
    did you have any problems getting the front pads into the clips? damn things were a supper tight to get in..
    None whatsoever.
    I get that pop with the parking brake all the time. I swear if it's just really humid I'll get it. Haven't gotten it since I changed them, but it's only been 2 days

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    Quote Originally Posted by BURN51D3 View Post
    None whatsoever.
    I get that pop with the parking brake all the time. I swear if it's just really humid I'll get it. Haven't gotten it since I changed them, but it's only been 2 days
    Same, haven't gotten in the last 2 days since I changed them... a few weeks ago it was so bad the car wouldn't move... I had to try going back and fwd a couple times till it popped... only time it's done that...
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenDawg View Post
    My Car is about 100mils shy of 50k, still on factory brakes.... the other day when I was almost home I started hearing the rear brakes making a grinding/grone sound when applying the brakes... I knew it was getting time to replace them... So this Saturday I put new brakes all the way around.. well I did the pass rear first... when I removed one of the pads, the brake material was completely separated from the metal backing. And the wear indicator that is suppose to grind on the rotor to make noise was close to touching yet, so brakes still had miles left on them, if they weren't falling part. So I then go to the drivers side rear, and same thing, but it was both this time, and it was even worse, the material was broken in pieces…..

    At 50K my stock, o.e rear brakes were hammered, but the pads were in one piece. Front rotors were blued.
    Both rear rotors were warped, with the driver-side being very very warped. Pads were 50% worn, but were black on the contact surface.
    One rear bearing may be going, and it was the wheel with the most warping.
    Front rotors were blued and starting to warp, but pads were worn 50% and looked fine.
    Never had a vehicle in 50 years which had brakes wear that fast.

    I think there is something wrong with the setup of the rear brakes.
    I believe that the wheel bearing wears out quickly and then the brakes and/or rotors start to get hammered by the poor bearings.
    Check if the wheels with the broken pads have any sign of warpage. Put the wheel on a jack stand, pull the tire off, and rotate the wheel by hand.
    You will hear or feel something if the bearings are going. Notice that bearings can go out without making any discernable noise, so no noise does not mean no warping.
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    I drilled those bastards out too. even my low impact drill stripped em lol
    When I changed my pads and rotors I was around 67k on the rears and 78k on the fronts...surprisingly both looked really good still with a bit left on the pad.

    One thing I also noticed is that my pads, although my car being a 14, were pads for the 13. The 14 pads were tiny little things, with the 13s having 3x the contact on the rotor...weird. If the 15/16s are those little things, maybe thats why you experienced crappy wear.

    Quote Originally Posted by BURN51D3 View Post
    I did my fronts a month or so ago at about 60k miles, and rears last weekend at 65k.
    I didn't have them fall apart the way you described them, but they were in much worse shape than I was expecting.
    Since the fronts do so much more work, I was shocked to see the rear looking that bad after only 5k miles more.

    I did stoptech slotted rotors and pads (sounds like the same ones as you KenDawg).

    Two notes:
    1 - The rear brakes require the brake cylinder compression kit / spanner tool thingy.
    2 - Fu*k those philips heads holding the rotors on. Of course they're going to freaking rust. Wtf Hyundai.
    Use this if you don't want to drill them out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    If you drill them out, Home Depot does have exact replacements of the flat heads. They don't really do anything except hold the rotor on while you're mounting everything else up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flareon View Post
    invest...
    The key to getting the phillips off the rotors is to use this impact tool with a big ole air impact tool.

    Soak the screws with WD40, PBBlaster, etc.

    Take off the tapered end of the manual impact wrench and note it is 3/8 or 1/2" socket compatible.
    Connect it to your air impact tool.
    Insert the biggest phillips head into the end of the rig.

    When you remove the phillips with the impact tool you need to press hard enough that the screw head is not stripped.

    This works 100% of the time for me on all Hyundai and Kia cars with these phillips screws in the rotors.
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