Sweet merciful crap.. This for real?
This is a discussion on CERMA Treatments/Oil/Lubricants: For the good of the order within the Veloster Maintenance forums, part of the Veloster Turbo Garage category; Well its finally complete,.. my VT has been engine treated, 6000 mi. ran in, and turbo treated, 6500 miles ran in. 7500 mi. can around, ...
Well its finally complete,.. my VT has been engine treated, 6000 mi. ran in, and turbo treated, 6500 miles ran in. 7500 mi. can around, the "carrier" Motul which had served me well ( I'm a fan Cbrmale), was scheduled to come out and be replaced BY !!! TADAA !! CERMA oil 5w40.
As I did my oil change I noticed something about the dipstick I hadn't noticed before....There was a "coating" on the entire portion of the stick which swims in the oil in the oil pan. What was really interesting about this "coating":
- I could not scrape it off.
-And its nature was extremely SLIPPERY to the touch with ones finger coated in oil. It was markedly more "slippery" than the portion of the dipstick which was uncoated. CERMA binds to wherever there is heat and or friction. CARBON CAN NEVER STICK TO A CERMA TREATED SURFACE. (YES,..our dirty GDI's,..no more build up). The oil makes carbon bind to itself rendering it salvageable in size for out filter media.
The inventor of CERMA had explained to me that the CERMA engine treatment would treat the ferrous metal innards of the ENTIRE inside of the engine for its LIFE !!
The NANO CERMA would treat the bushings of the turbo and any other non-ferrous components in the oil circulate.
Now I had evidence in front of my face that I could relate to.
Notice the two zones on the dipstick, the yellow is coated, the blue is not.
The engine treatment is on the left, the nano is on the right. NEW cars only use 1 oz. of each they require "dirty" oil to carry them. The run in period for each is a minimum of 1,000 miles. I did 1500, before I changed the oil over to CERMA oil.
The oil, YES I bought a 5 gallon drum,...was 99.00. YES its a approved MINIMUM class 5 lubricant. The standard ratings don't do it justice. ITS OFF THE STANDARDIZED CHARTS. Willnot breakdown in any fashion to around 1100 degrees.
According to the inventor, over the next 90 days my VT will undergo fine changes, all positive:
-Increased compression,..yes a POWER mod in an oil change...BAM!!
-Increased gas mileage,...of course
-Treated surfaces will "conduct and transfer heat more efficiently"
There are many YOUtube videos on all its properties.
For you technically adept and doubting Thomases,...just call the technical support line.(ITS the INVENTOR !!!!!)
Product reps please don't hate,..THIS IS PROGRESS. I have no affiliation other than being an astounded customer.
Guys my VT (AT) would do 31-37 mpg at 58 mph on Motul. Now that I've done the complete array and the oil I'm doing 35-44 mpg at the same speed. (That's one day after oil switch over)
CERMA INSTRUCTIONS PER -X- endorsed by THE CEO:
]This is my take on the treatment procedure and how I did it:
* Let car get to operating temperature (oil at 180 degrees F or higher).
* Shut car off, open hood, remove engine cover.
* Have the engine treatment bottle prepped and ready to pour.
* Remove oil cap & quickly pour 1 oz. of engine treatment into oil.
* Quickly replace oil cap & start car ASAP (within 10-20 seconds after pouring it in; run if you have to).
* Fluctuate revs between 2000-3000 RPM for at least two minutes (I went for nearly five; it's ok if you go a little higher or lower).
* Turn ESC off.
* Begin driving the car on local streets, hopefully where there are lots of lights or stop signs and not too much traffic.
* Use engine braking to decelerate during this initial driving stage.
* Leave the car in each gear longer than normal (say to 4500-5000 RPM) and gently accelerate (do not punch it, use engine braking).
* After five minutes, start taking the car to 6000 RPM in each gear, still slowly accelerating (no hammering it, use engine braking).
* After five minutes, start taking the car to 6500 RPM in each gear, accelerating moderately (still no hammering it, use engine braking).
* After five minutes, do a few hard pulls to redline in 1st & 2nd gear (hammer it as much as you like, engine braking optional).
If you need to add more engine treatment, repeat the process until the driving portion, then just drive normally (since your engine is already treated).
Wait until 1500 miles to do the nano/turbo treatment (I waited 2500); 500 IMO is too soon.
Nano procedure is similar to the above except:
* Keep revs between 1500-2000 RPM for at least two minutes; you can repeat the driving procedure or just drive as normal.
Wait another 1500 miles to switch to CERMA or CERMAX 5W30 or 5W40.
Last edited by vt_guest123; 02-11-2014 at 11:05 AM.
So I just add this once and it's there forever?
I need to get Cbrmale's input on this before I continue.
i dont like car bombs and my car they dont mix lol.
all joking aside i am interested in this stuff. is it an oil i put in once or every time i change my oil?
I have three loves in life, the wife, my CB7, and my VT in that order.
2013 Ultra black M/T
TS rigid collars, tork pipe, tint front 35% rear limo 5%, blue leds for internal lights,piaa fog lights, solo exhaust, fog light stand alone kit, K&N drop in filter, TS HKS BOV, peirce rear torsion bar
on hand: OCC,
Ordered: led rear reflectors, under window chrome inserts
resetting the ecu after new mod = race car lol
If it's so wonderful, why doesn't my dealer recommend it? Or, why can't I find a zombie-like following at my local parts store? I'm a bit hesitant. Sure, it isn't doing any harm, but it sure reminds me of that ole Slick 50 my dad had sitting in the garage. It sat there because my dad never saw the true benefits of it in any of his vehicles. No harm, but no glorious benefits.
2013 VT A/T | CP High Perf Pistons | Custom Head Work | Tork Oil Pan Upgrade/Spacer | Upgraded Headgasket | Upgraded Fuel Lines | Stuffed Turbo | B&M SuperCooler Trans Cooler | NGK 1422s | Custom Tork Tune | AEM CAI | Saikou Michi OCC | 845 Motorsports FMIC | Synapse DV | Magnaflow Exhaust | Pierce HF DP | Tork Rigid Collars | ARK GT-F Springs | Pierce Street Version Strut Brace | Pierce 4-point Front Brace | Pierce Torsion Bar | 18x8 Motegi MR127s | 215/40ZR18 Hankook Ventus V12 EVO2s