This is a discussion on The Complete Modifications List within the Veloster Performance forums, part of the Veloster Turbo Garage category; A lot of the questions in the performance section are the same thing over and over and this thread is an attempt to answer everyone’s ...
A lot of the questions in the performance section are the same thing over and over and this thread is an attempt to answer everyone’s modding questions. If you have input, please let me know and hopefully we can this sticky’d. Please keep in mind that the mods listed with power levels do not necessarily add up to a total power gain the more you add, I have tried to find individual power numbers per part based upon dyno graphs. Handling and other mods have been added per request, all should improve lap times.
Stock power levels on a U.S. Manual/Automatic V/T: ~170hp ~165tq to the wheels.
Starting Power Mods:
The starting place for modifications, usually cheaper and affect the airflow to or away from the engine.
Resonator Delete – $25-$35. +8-13hpThe easiest and cheapest power adding mod available. You will lose some low end torque (you spin your tires anyways right?) and add some needed top end power while smoothing your top end power curve.Where to Find (In no particular order): Turbosocks.com, DamnFastDD.com (TorkMe), 845Motorsports.com
SRI/CAI (Short Ram Intake/Cold Air Intake) - $135-$300. +5-10hpAnother decent power adder for cheap. Typically adds power across the entire power band due to cooler air or less air going to the engine. Either one will be fine for your application, though CAI’s are known to get a little more power due to their placement. Intakes are known for being extremely noisy on this car without new exhaust. Some are made by well-known companies like Injen, while others are custom made by our forum supporters.Where to Find (In no particular order): 845Motorsports.com, DamnFastDD.com (TorkMe, Coming Soon?), Turbosocks.com, ShopBTR.com (BTRcc), PierceMotorsport.com
Exhaust - $700-$1500. +5-10hpWhile considered a starting mod, cat-back exhausts generally cost a lot more and are running $700 at a minimum. These help your car breathe better and sound louder without replacing the down pipe. They are however a bolt-on part like the rest of the starting mods so anyone with jacks can do this mod.Where to Find (In no particular order): ShopBTR.com, Turbosocks.com, PierceMotorsport.com, Solo-Performance.com, 845Motorsports.com, ARKPerformance.com, ImportShark.com
Starting Handling Mods:
So you’ve added more power and your VT can’t keep traction through 1st or 2nd gear anymore and turning at speed is a challenge. Or maybe you’ve noticed body roll (when your cars shift while taking a turn quickly). This section will tell you how to improve handling, put more power to the ground, and drop your 0-60 drag times.
Tires/Lightweight Wheels-$400-$1000The most important and often most overlooked item on any car. The stock No-Season (All-season tires aren’t good at anything) Kumhos are ok at best, and at worst feel like hockey pucks. Put some dedicated summer rubber on those wheels like the Michelin Pilot Super Sport, or anything on this list: Monsters of Grip: Nine Summer-Performance Tires Tested - Comparison Test - Car and Driver and handling grip as well as 0-60 times will increase dramatically. If you’re slipping around during the winter, that is normal for all cars with No-Seasons, buy some snow tires. The Slip N’ Slide will stop.Lightweight wheels will decrease the rotating mass that the drivetrain has to move (as opposed to the car's weight.) You will see significant improvements by reducing rotating weight vs car weight. So go grab yourself some gram lights or OZ racing wheels and make your ride look even better while you're at it (stock rim weight is 26.5lbs.) Stock wheel size is 18"x 7.5" (You can't fit bigger than 8.5" without modification to the car, 19" rims don't make your car faster!)Where to Find (In no particular order): Your local tire shop or dealership, the internet (Google Tires)
Bushings/Rigid Collars/Motor Mounts $55-$200So you want to start getting rid of the squishiness that your stock car comes with built in for ride comfort. This is the place to start. Stock bushings (the pieces of rubber between the pieces of metal on your car to prevent it riding like a roller coaster) are made from cheap rubber and can be replaced with Polyurethane versions for better handling (Poly bushings don’t compress as much, but the ride will be harsher over bumps.) Additionally, you can get the rigid collars which you simply add to your existing frame to prevent movement between the bolt and the frame. And lastly, you can add motor mounts to improve your 0-60 times by decreasing the amount of drive train movement, putting more power to the wheels (you did buy new tires right?.) Motormounts fall closer to a mid-level upgrade due to their cost.Where to Find (In no particular order): Turbosocks.com, UniqPerformance.ca
Bracing-$80-$350You’re wondering to yourself…how flexible could this car really be? It’s made of metal! Take a cookie sheet and try to bend it (I don’t want your mom getting pissed off at me…) you’ll notice it can warp pretty easily with the right force. Think of your under chassis as a cookie sheet. If we add more metal to the cookie sheet, its ability to warp lessens. The same goes for your VT. Strut Bracing adds extra support between your suspension components while Chassis Bracing stiffens the body and reduces body roll. Yes, this will make your ride firmer with the benefit of improved cornering ability (Seriously…you got new tires right?)Where to Find (In no particular order): PierceMotorsport.com, Turbosocks.com , UniqPerformance.ca
Lowering Springs-$270-$600Drop it like its hot. The first step in suspension upgrades. Drop your ride height to lower your center of gravity. Lower center, better handling, better looks (within reason.) This is an easy install where you remove your stock springs and add these to the stock shocks.Where to Find (In no particular order): UniqPerformance.ca, ArkPerformance.com, Refer to this link for lots of options: https://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/v...facturers.html
Short Shifter-$200-$300While not actually a power or handling modification, short shifters may improve your shift times on a manual VT. Experts typically recommend replacing the stock shifter only if you are planning on using it for race applications.Where to Find (In no particular order): DamnFastDD.com(TorkMe)
Mid-level Power Mods:
After you have added everything above to make your car breathe better, it’s time to start messing around with the ECU and the parts that make your car difficult to smog check.
Tune - $400-$800 +20-60hpA tune can be done on a stock car and will be beneficial without all the starter mods. However, to get the most out of a tune, the starter mods are necessary. A tune will smooth out your powerband, get you better gas mileage (5-15%), and add loads of power, all for less than a Cat-back. TorkMe offers different stages for different levels of cars. Their Stage 2 will be putting out over 100whp and wtq over stock with Full Bolt-Ons (Starter Mods and Mid-level). Keep in mind that the higher Stage tunes are designed for power over reliability and are likely not street legal...but TONS of fun. The best way to get a tune is to attend a local tuning event. The vendors listed below sell either canned tunes (tunes based upon certain universal parameters, can be unreliable and more expensive, but usually comes with an extra ECU) or tunes where you ship in your ECU to have it flashed (More reliable and cheaper, but your car may be out of action for a week due to shipping. Cars need their ECU to run) Be prepared to run at least 91 octane on these tunes.Where to Find (In no particular order): Damnfastdd.com (TorkMe), ShopBTR.com, SFRUSA.com
Gutted/High-flow Cat/Downpipe - $100-$600 +10-20hpThis is one of the most restrictive parts of the VT exhaust system and gutting it (removing the insides) or buying a high-flow version is the easiest way to get more power out of your VT. So what’s the downside? Your car may begin to pop up Check Engine Lights and will unlikely be able to pass emissions testing. Unlike the Exhaust and Intake, this mod is also not usually necessary for a Stage 1 tune. Noise level will also see a sharp increase.Where to Find (In no particular order): PierceMotorsports.com, Turbosocks.com, 845Motorsports.com, Solo-Performance.com, DamnFastDD.com(TorkMe)
Front-Mounted Intercooler-$500-$700 +?hpFMIC’s are not intended to be a power adder, but may help free up power by increasing cooling levels and allowing your components to work better together. TorkMe has seen up to 267hp and 293tq from the stock FMIC while he was tuning, so an upgrade is not necessary until higher power levels or dedicated race applications. Audi has seen up to 40hp gains with new FMICs, so if you're at the above numbers, it could free up even more.Where to Find (In no particular order): Turbosocks.com, 845Motorsports.com
Blow-Off Valve-$50-$200 +?hpBlow off valves are not designed specifically to add power. They do sound awesome though and make a PSSHH noise when venting to the atmosphere. Realistically, your stock recirculating valve is all you'll need until you hit high power numbers or turbo pressures and need to release the pressure from the turbo instead of re-using it. This, like the FMIC may free up some trapped HP and may come with an FMIC.Where to Find (In no particular order): Turbosocks.com
Mid/Race-level Handling Mods:
There are only a few things under this category because Starting Handling Mods cover everything necessary until you take your car to the track.
Sports Suspension/Coilovers-$700-$1500Your lowering springs not giving you the performance you want? Install a set of sports suspension or coilovers. I haven’t seen any sports suspension options offered, everyone seems to be going with the coilover route. Coilovers are more expensive but offer you a complete replacement for the stock shocks and springs and their firmness is adjustable to different levels for on and off the track.Where to Find (In no particular order): UniqPerformance.ca, PierceMotorsport.com, Turbosocks.com, Refer to this link for lots of options: https://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/v...facturers.html
Roll Cage-$1000+Required for certain types of racing. Keeps you safe if (when) you crash. Also allows the installation of race harnesses (4-5 point seatbelts) and stiffens the chassis considerably through welding to the frame. Often custom made.Where to Find (In no particular order): No idea who sells these yet, you’ll most likely have to go to your local metal fabrication shop to get one made out of metal tubing.
Race-level Power mods:
Now you’re serious about racing and want to put out over 300hp/tq. You’re going to need a bigger turbo and race-gas and some dedicated Stage 2+ tuning.
Turbo Upgrade Kit-$2500-$5000 +~140hpThis kit can include a new turbo and may also include a cat-back, FMIC, Intake, etc. For those who aren’t satisfied with the stock turbo’s power. This will completely invalidate your factory warranty to the point of no return and may cause the stock internals to fail in a catastrophic, yet spectacular manner. Only time will tell.Where to Find (In no particular order): 845Motorsports.com (Only one doing this so far? Contact [email protected] for more info.)
That is the list of mods in a nutshell. If you’re wondering which version of a part is better than another, they are usually comparable, but use the search bar or ask around the forums for personal experiences.
Last edited by Wolfhawk46; 01-13-2014 at 06:42 AM. Reason: Added info
Nice write up, we will have our CAI released this week and will be working on finalizing our intercooler this month.
Also note, we should have the Stage 2 tune done very soon as well. The Stage 2 tune will yield the greatest gains for those who already have all the bolt on's. A typical full bolt on VT will give numbers of 210 to 220 WHP with out a tune. With a Stage one tune you will see a nice bump to these numbers (expect 240 WHP and 250 WTQ). Our Stage 2 tune is going to take that to the next level and hit you with 270 WHP and 280 WTQ. These are huge gains for just a tune.
There are several things we are working on over the next few months and if all goes well, a new HP record will be set every month of this year!!!
Last edited by Wolfhawk46; 01-07-2014 at 01:41 PM.
We do have a resonator delete it's not listed though. 35 it includes coupler clamps and pipe
These are all straight engine based mods. Suspension/handling has been left out. Quality grouping of info for newbies to modding cars though. A note though worth making is that the best mod you can make to a car is the driver. The car is more capable than 90% of drivers out there can utilize. If you plan on doing anything more than highway pulls for fun, the engine should be one of the last things you upgrade.
2013 Turbo M/T: Black. Solo Catback Exhaust. Injen CAI. TS FMIC (not installed).
Last edited by Wolfhawk46; 01-07-2014 at 01:49 PM.