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Motor oil recommendations?

This is a discussion on Motor oil recommendations? within the Veloster Turbo Discussions forums, part of the Veloster Turbo Forum category; Originally Posted by rspec2014 I bought a 12 pack of filters and washers from a Hyundai dealer on ebay.... at 15K I am almost half ...

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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspec2014 View Post
    I bought a 12 pack of filters and washers from a Hyundai dealer on ebay.... at 15K I am almost half way through them...
    Did you check to see if they were fakes?
    - Jon

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  2. #22
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    All sealed in Hyundai boxes....
    Veloster Gone.... 2017 FoST added.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspec2014 View Post
    All sealed in Hyundai boxes....
    Thats not always enough.
    - Jon

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  5. #24
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    it was less than $5 for the oil filter/washer at my local dealer. realize that it might be cheaper on ebay, but sometimes having the record that you bought them is worth the added security of proving you changed the oil.
    velo is gone.

  6. #25
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    I have the record in my ebay transactions... the seller is Hyundai dealer in PA... sorry from Jersey... its a 10 pack

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/301462870818...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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    So he's from Jersey... Pretty shifty place that Jersey.
    - Jon

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  8. #27
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    Hey come on.... Jersey is the jewel of the east coast... where else can you gamble.. win a lot of money walk two blocks away and get robbed of all your winnings...
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    I've read through every post and was curious if Pennzoil Platinum (not the ultra in the black container, it's the silver container) would be fine? I can't find ultra platinum around where I live... And it will cost $50 to order it. I mean it is still full synthetic and GF-5 and what not. Just a decent amount cheaper.

    Links for each ones specs:

    Ultra Platinum: https://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/u...F-5-en-TDS.pdf

    Platinum: https://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/u...F-5-en-TDS.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by cbrmale View Post
    Some engines can be damaged by running an oil that is too thin for cold start and warm-up running, especially with cold piston to bore clearances. For example there will be excessive piston and bore wear in the engine in my wife's Opel if anything less than a 10W30 or 10W40 is run in that engine, and similarly with my Triumph motorcycle which must run 10W40. There may be a reason why Hyundai specified 5W40, and often the 5W is more important than the 40.

    I don't know why so many want to ad-lib with their cars. Hyundai is a big company which has built millions of cars and they aren't stupid. If the VT will run 0w30 or 0w40 or 5w30 or 5w40; don't you think they would put that in the handbook?

    But it's your engine and not mine. Go ahead and run what your heart's desire.

    "Some engines can be damaged by running an oil that is too thin for cold start and warm-up running, especially with cold piston to bore clearances. "------------
    -----------I am no mechanic by far but that's exactly why i have replaced 1 qt. of oil with 1 qt of Lucas every oil change on every vehicle i have had for the last 20 yrs or so. I know these cars are totally different than a Ford F-150, but one of my stand out stories is my truck started burning oil and i started using Lucas, and sold the truck with over 300k on it, and the guy is still loving the truck and continues using Lucas. I never have had to go into any engine i have ever owned , and i credit the Lucas for it! --------oh well, for what it's worth, that's my, "want 2 be" mechanic opinion anyway?

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    Quote Originally Posted by -X- View Post
    Mobil1 is a group III mineral-based oil and has been shown to cause sludge in this engine, especially if you go past 3000 miles.

    The only group III oil I recommend is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, as it is designed to protect against LSPI.

    Ideally you want a group IV (PAO-based) or group V (ester-based) oil with the highest flashpoint possible.

    I understand if you are a Mobil1 head from years past. I used to run it in non-GDI vehicles with no issues. However, it just isn't a good oil for this T-GDI engine.
    ================================================== ================================================== ====

    I was just roaming around, because i finally got back to the "what type of oil to use next oil change," and come across this----
    -------------"Mobil 1 is a good example of a high-end Group IV."----- (does group IV = PAO-based?)

    So Are you 100% sure it's group lll ?
    I also called and spoke to a mobil 1 rep about running it in my son's 2014 VT, and they pointed me to the extended performance syn., because it met Hyundai's requirements. Then told me how to do things to stay under their lifetime limited engine guarantee which includes using their ext. filter. and instead of 15k mile changes, i will change at 7,500.
    (also in case your wondering, my son does not drive it very hard. He has to pay for his own gas now, so he is more worried about mpg than anything else! haha! XD)

    As for the flash point, Mobil1 looks to be about as good as everything on the chart you provided above, other than the racing oil at the top.

    Anyway, with me using the qt of Lucas with the mobil 1, are you still suggesting i should use that racing oil or eq. w/ higher flash point?
    (i never hear anyone speak of Lucas additives on these forums? Idk why not? Lucas has proven it's products to me over the past 20 yrs or so!) I also never have had injector/carb problems at all by using their fuel treatments.
    Anyway Other than the flash point, what else is the most important characteristic to look for in an oil? Viscosity,? density,? ect....?

    Please know i do not want to come across as knowing what i am talking about, because i definitely don't! lol! All i can do is tell you what i read.
    Thanks for reading!

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