Independent LEDs

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Independent LEDs

This is a discussion on Independent LEDs within the Veloster Turbo DIY forums, part of the Veloster Turbo Garage category; For a while now, I have been very bothered by the fact that you cannot drive around with just the LEDs (eyeliner) on. I haven't ...

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  1. #1
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    Smile Independent LEDs

    For a while now, I have been very bothered by the fact that you cannot drive around with just the LEDs (eyeliner) on.
    I haven't seen an easy way of doing this as of yet, but while browsing through my AllDataDIY shop manual, I saw one, and decided to make a DIY.

    OBLIGATORY DISCLAIMER: DON'T MESS UP YOUR OWN CAR. This DIY Advises you to remove several connectors from the Smart Junction Box or Body Control Module. This controls almost everything in the car beyond the engine (Though it does tell the engine to start). I had no issues whatsoever as a result of any of the steps described below. However, do this at your own risk. It is not my fault if your car breaks.

    Tools Needed:
    • Philips Screwdriver
    • Large Flathead Screwdriver
    • 10mm Socket Wrench
    • Very small flathead screwdriver
    • Soldering Iron
    • Crimpers (For Spade Connectors)
    • Wire Strippers & Cutters
    • Razor Knife
    • Soldering Iron (Can Get By Without)
    • Lighter or Heat Gun (Or Hair Dryer)
    • 1/4" Socket Wrench and Philips Driver Bit are Nice to have
    • Mini DTM Fuse Puller (There is one inside the engine compartment fuse box)
    • Drill and 1/4" Bit

    Materials Needed:
    • 1x SPST 12V Relay (Doesn't Need more than 2A Rating or so, LEDs pull only .5A. I used a Rayex Elec LD1A-12F from Advance Auto)
    • 3x 1/4" Female Spade Connectors (Or appropriate size for your relay & wire)
    • Spare Low Profile Mini Fuses (10A & 15A) (I THINK ATM Mini Fuses will fit but no promises)
    • 1x Squeeze Wire Tap or Crimp on Butt Splice
    • 2x Fuse Taps (I made some, you can make or buy)
    • 1/8" and 1/4" Heat Shrink Tube (Or Electrical Tape)
    • Stranded Wire (I used 18 AWG that I had on hand, >=24 AWG is fine)


    Steps:
    FUSE TAPS
    I made my own fuse taps by cutting back the plastic on top of the fuse body and soldering a wire to the spade.
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    You should be able to buy something similar, but it was pretty easy to make. You will need to have two of them (One 10A and one 15A).
    Leave around 8" of wire and crimp on a Female 1/4" Spade Connector.

    REMOVE CRASH PAD IN CAR
    Open car door, remove the side cover of the crash pad. This pops off with a screwdriver (There is a notch at the bottom), then you can slide a finger up to pop out all of the connectors.
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    Remove the (4) Screws that hold the crash pad cover on. One of them is hard to reach, I used my socket wrench and a philips driver bit to reach it.
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    Pull off the crash pad (it has the same kind of pop-out connectors as the last piece.
    Remove the OBD Port and the Crash Pad Switch Cables (Ultimates will have a few more connectors here I think). The OBD Port has tabs on the side that need to be pushed in.
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    Unbolt the (5) Bolts that hold the pictured metal piece in place, remove that piece.
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    Last edited by dalovering; 08-30-2015 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Added Disclaimer.
    FRAv, RyGuy, CES and 2 others like this.

  2. #2
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    Disconnect connectors I/P-E, I/P-F, I/P-G, and I/P-H From the "Smart Junction Box"/"Passenger Compartment Fuse Box"
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    Unbolt the (3) Bolts that hold the Smart Junction Box in Place.
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    Pull the Smart Junction box out. Keep an eye on the studs at the top, it has to come UP then out. Let it hang from the other connectors.
    Disconnect I/P-C on the back of the Smart Junction Box. It is the upper connector with a bunch of pins occupied.
    Use the Small Screwdriver to pry open the "gate" on the connector. This will allow you to remove the pins. There are two pry locations. The gate will pop out maybe 2mm.
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    Pull out Pin 11 (Pink Wire)
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    This wire goes to the multifunction switch that controls the headlights. This is for the "Parking Lights," which normally includes the DRL (High beams @ 6V) And the Tail light circuit (Tail Lights are in Parallel with LED Eyeliner, Halos and Side Markers).
    We need to tap into this and use it to fire our relay. The switch, when in the "Parking Lights" position, grounds this wire out.
    I chose to leave the pin, and use the squeeze wire tap so that I could go back easily if I wanted. You can also cut and butt splice your wire to this.
    If you use the wire tap, be sure to shrink tube or tape the pin that will hang out. Leave about 6" of wire and crimp on another female spade connector.
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    Put the Smart Junction Box back in place and put the two upper nuts back on. Leave the lower one off.
    My Relay has a mounting bracket, so I used this lower bolt to hold the relay, but I had to drill the hole in the bracket out a bit.
    Put the bolt through the relay mounting bracket, then back in its original location.
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    Reconnect all of the Smart Junction Box Connectors you disconnected earlier.
    Now, plug in your two tap fuses into "POWER OUTLET" and "TAIL LAMP RH"
    Note: "POWER OUTLET" is normally a 15A Fuse. I had already cut up a 10A, so I rolled with it. No big deal.
    Pay attention to which side of the fuse is tapped. On the "POWER OUTLET" we want to tap the DOWN STREAM side (After the fuse), which is to the left. On the "TAIL LAMP RH" We want to tap the UPSTREAM SIDE, which is to the right.
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    Finally, wire everything to your relay. You need the supply to both the coil and the switch side of the relay to be connected to the POWER OUTLET fuse tap. You need the other side of the coil to go to the I/P-C Pin 11 (Multifunction Switch). Finally, the other side of the switch in the relay goes to the TAIL LAMP RH fuse tap, which will supply the LEDs. I labeled the relay pins as they were on my relay, they may be different on yours. I soldered a piece of wire between the supply pins on the relay, you can do that or crimp a second spade connector on.
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    Double check all of your wiring, then turn the car to "ACC" and turn your headlight switch to Parking Lights. The LEDs, Side Marker Lights, and Tail Lights will now come on without DRL.

    NOTE: On mine, the DRL aren't coming on even in DRL mode. It doesn't bother me so I haven't looked into it further. I hate those things anyways.
    I will post a picture once it gets a little darker. The LEDs aren't terribly bright.
    -X-, Mr.MattyV, CES and 2 others like this.

  3. #3
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    I forgot to post this, but here is a schematic of Connector I/P-C so that you can identify pin 11 Positively.
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    BONUS: If you want independent fogs, you can follow the same procedure, but:
    Use Pin 23 (White Wire) on I/P-C instead of Pin 11.
    Use I/P-A Pin 6 (White Wire) Instead of the TAIL LAMP RH Fuse Tap.
    Only use POWER OUTLET to supply the coil, ground out other pin on relay.
    Follow Below Schematic. NOTICE: I HAVE NOT DONE THIS.
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    If you don't care whether your fogs turn off when you turn the car off, you can simply connect I/P-C Pin 11 to I/P-A Pin 6. This will work but fogs will turn on even if the car is off.
    -X- and orbeavhawk like this.

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    CES, orbeavhawk and -X- like this.

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    What model year is your car? I have a 13 and so no DRL. Running in parking light mode just has the leds up front and the tail lights. After I put in HIDs though, I just run headlights on 24/7.
    orbeavhawk likes this.
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  7. #6
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    Mine is a 2014. My stock functionality was:
    Off: All lights off
    DRL: High Beams at 6V ONLY
    "Parking Lights" (hand brake on): LEDs, Side Markers, Tail Lights
    "Parking Lights" (hand brake off): Above plus High beams at 6V
    Head lights: Low beams (projectors), LEDs, Side Markers, Tail Lights

    Now everything is basically the same but without the high beams at 6V.
    You definitely won't have DRL now due to the HIDs but I thought the 2013 model was supposed to work as described above.

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    There are no DRL on the 13. High beams only come on (at any brightness) when the stalk is pushed/pulled appropriately.
    What I would find more interesting is a way to run only the headlight LEDs without the tail lights being on - so having the DRL be the LEDs instead instead of the high beams @6V.
    Personal Blog: https://johnroscigno.com
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  9. #8
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    I personally hate the way the half brightness highbeams look. I love that my '13 didn't get saddled with that crap fest.
    And if I'm going to rant, may as well get it all out. DRLs are stupid. Not sure what the point it or what the plan was by that committee.
    - Jon

    GONE Black VT, MT w/ Ultimate click for build thread! GONE

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    Safety of course.... I am sure someone sued the car manufacturers and won....
    orbeavhawk likes this.
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  11. #10
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    i'm ok with it. you always get that soccermom or moron who can't remember to turn the damn lights on. atleast cars can do it themselves now...
    orbeavhawk likes this.
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