A few track day thoughts from an A/T guy
This is a discussion on A few track day thoughts from an A/T guy within the Veloster Turbo Road Racing forums, part of the Veloster Turbo Racing category; Originally Posted by Bauss
Glad I’m not alone on the brakes. The porter field pads are a little dicey until they heat up. ...
'14 VT Vitamin-C base manual
Originally Posted by Bauss
i've done a ton of track days with the car fully bolted / coiled / aligned and with the car stock. i'm actually faster stock lol and i feel the car is more forgiving that way. plus i run smaller wheels and larger tires. there could be many reasons why im not faster with the car prepared. the answer is most likely me. i'm faster in other cars. could also be that i'm ready for more safety equipment (ie, cage/seat/harness/hans) and the VT is never going to be that car for me.
also one thing i noticed is that i was using the brakes less as my lap times dropped. more momentum and less brake.
TSMP is about 15 minutes from my home. i have been there 8 times just this year... that helps
you may want to look into trying other lines. at TSMP, we have an S like that, i try to stay off the curbs though, as you could bend something depending on their height.
the FIST and R you drove are better prepped for autocross and track. don't forget the VT is an ecohatch. The FIST is really tall and the R is really big, in comparison.
Last edited by RPW00Mirage; 11-07-2017 at 01:03 PM.
2012 Boston Red Veloster NA Base Manual BTRcc tuned 167whp / 138wtq SOLD! - TK.COM CAI/catback - Nameless poly motor mount - BTRcc 89 octane tune
2014 Vitamin-C Veloster Turbo Base Manual
K&N panel filter - Nameless poly motor mount - Curt hitch - CF filler cap - Hawk ceramic pads - PMS torsion bar - UNIQ front strut bar - DZIII tires
2001 Emerald Green Kia Rio Manual
Overhauled suspension - H&R springs - 1Gb control arms / torsion rods - A6D 1.6L DOHC swap complete!
So last month a ran a track day at Virgina Iternational Raceway on the full course with my 2013 VT Auto. I loosely run SCCA Solo 1 in HS so my setup reflects that. 17x7.5 wheels, Bridgestone r71r tires, rear torsion bar, panel filter, Porterfield pads all around, and fresh full synthetic fluids. I was lucky to run a 1:30 with lap traffic and a torn rear engine mount(most likely from a previous autocross event) by the end of the day with plenty of room to improve. So I hope I can answer your questions.
1. I didn't have this problem though I heard that the A/T computer has different programming in between the 2 years. I will say like a manual it will not force itself into gear without enough rpms to run the gear. In mine somewhere between 4500-5000rpms seem to be the ceiling for a downshift the computer will except. but the way our cars make power down shifting when your above 4k I have found to be useless.
2. Smooth in smooth out. I have only had this problem autocrossing in the pouring rain where traction is near zero. In this case if spin get excessive it will open the wastegate. The other time is transitioning from oak tree to the back straight that requires a late apex and accelerating over the gators. In this case my instructor and I thought the wheel was coming off the ground which would be a open diff issue. So we played with other lines to allow full throttle acelleration.
1A the tubular rear is a little "skatty" but vary manageable. Proper braking really cleans a lot of the problems people have with this up. The only time it felt a little wobble was hitting second gator on the upper esses at a 115mph+. Only because the inner rear wheel would pickup but would stabilize instantly after touchdown haha. Also if you haven't realized this yet once you apply more than 10% brake the car bleeds off the boost and cuts throttle input. Basically killing any real trail braking. I learned from years of autocross in this car to brake as little as possible, and when you do it in the most efficient way possible to allow you to get back on the power.
1b best way to get use to this is to find a empty parking lot, get up to 45 and stand on it. With practice you were learn your braking capability and how to add some rotation on corner entry with a touch of the brakes.
2. tires change everything. Putting on a good set of tires doesn't just give you stickier rubber but more rollover resistance and a better spring rate
3.the stock suspension isn't the best when comparing it to something like a mini Cooper s or a 2000s civic si. Yet its not a horrible mess people make it out to be. Hell I have 6 yearly class championships in 2 clubs on stock suspension and I am no driving god in a class full of national competitors. The problem I constantly run into with instructing is overdriving fwd cars. The car can only do so much at one time so its best to let the car settle into what its doing before asking more of it. I will say I have overworked the front struts a few times on vary rough autocross courses but its rare. On a side note the plan is to go to koni yellows and to swap the rear torsion for a bigger front sway for nationals this year using the rear adjustability to dial in predictive oversteer.
4 this is only a issue for me on autocross courses when ambient temps are 37c and up. I have combated this with a 25/75 blend with water wetter. On the track the only time temps spiked was coming into the pits after a 30min run or on holiday/charity laps when stop and go traffic become a big issue. This can also be related to overdriving
My best recommendation is always seat time and instruction over any modifications. Untill you learn to drive a slow car fast you will never bring out the full potential of the modifications you add.
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