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I've been at this drag racing thing a while, and I went through the same thing (doubters) with my 2010 Challenger R/T . I set the record for quickest naturally aspirated stock 5.7 engine Hemi back in 2011 and nobody has come close to it three years later. I did it through constant tinkering and weight reduction. If you want to be the quickest, there's more to it than simply showing up and running your car. Not everyone is willing to put in the time and effort to do what it takes to get there.

Same thing with the 14.55 in the Veloster. I can assure you that we have bought nothing for this car besides the 17" Motegi wheels and a set of Weathertech floor mats. We took out the passenger seat and the back seats. The gas tank was down to less than a 1/4 tank. The washer fluid was empty. The glove box and console were empty. We removed the foam block with jack and tools from the trunk. My wife is also pretty light as a driver. We dialed in tire pressures front and rear. We experimented with different launch techniques. Yes, it's an automatic. But still, you can stomp it from an idle, brake torque to 1000, 1500, 2000, etc. Each car on each track will require a different technique.

I provided both a time slip and a video. Not sure what else I can do. Instead of sitting on your couch calling me a liar, I suggest you spend some time figuring out why your car is not as quick as it should be.
 

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I will also say that some bolt ons are grossly overrated. Aftermarket air filters and short ram intakes are worthless. Cat back exhaust systems are just noise. A true cold air intake is worth a few hp, and I am looking into making one. Keeping coolant temps and air intake temps down are on my list. This car will go quicker, and I will be doing it on the cheap. I apologize to the vendors selling expensive crap that does nothing for performance, but I am a believer in time slips, not dyno sheets.
 

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Answers in red.

1. Are you a 2014 (different base map tune on 14's for one)? Yes, 2014.
2. What elevation are you at in Ohio? Roughly 1200' above sea level.
3. Temp/Baro Pressure? Air temp was around 70*. Not sure about Baro.
4. How much lighter are the wheels over stock? You dropped to 17's I see. The 17's are about 42 lbs (wheel & tire together). Not sure what the stock 18's weigh.
5. What size tire difference are you running now? Specifically height. 215/45R17 (24.8" diameter = same as stock 18's)
 

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Don't forget the driver was probably 60-80 lbs. lighter or more. DA values, wheel/tire size & weight are important as well.

It's apparent that NWM has nailed down his bare-bones method & it's working well.
She weighs about 125 lbs and I weigh 165 lbs. That, in combination with removing the seats, would be about 1.5 tenths (using the 100 lbs equals one tenth rule).
 

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You gained little to nothing on the wheel weight I believe lol. Basically looks like you just had a good driver mod and the temp wasn't too bad for some runs! Nice running Nova!
The idea behind buying 17" wheels was all about ride comfort and wheel protection on our shitty Ohio roads. :)

Yes, it has definitely been a cool summer in these parts!

Thanks for the props.
 

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Went back last night. Went 14.58
Weather was 10* warmer compared to last week when she ran 14.55.
Traction was also an issue this week (short times were averaging 2.35 last night and 2.20 last week).
Given that we ran a nearly identical ET with a 60' time that was .15 slower, we are on the right track.
Will be going back in a week or two to try and further dial in the launch.

As for the actual eliminations, she lost on a breakout by .02
Was a great race to watch!
 

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Answers in red.

No video Nova?!?! I did get video. Didn't upload since the ET was not quicker than last week.

What kind of tire pressure you running with those tires? 30 front/60 rear

Also, you building a lil boost before launch? We've been playing with that a little bit, but it seems to be producing erratic results. While we are all want to go as quick as we can, we also want to win races. That requires consistency.
 
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