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0-60 and 1/4 miles times

61604 Views 306 Replies 52 Participants Last post by  TJ_inMI
For what its worth. Via an in car GPS based tracking application.

I was able to pull a 0-60mph in 6.0sec flat ( with moderate wheel spin in 1st ) and a 1/4 mile in 15.0sec @ 91mph .. ( forgot to take traction control off, can probably pull off 14.8sec on a good launch )

Both runs were done with 1/4 tank of gas 89 octane. Its also pretty chilly here. 45*F at the time of testing.
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Here's the log at the drag strip. Notice the low vacuum at idle.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VYNhCE1jv5i9qJtRewgbUvN_Rpxgp6Bi7pxv8x41xxs/edit?usp=sharing

Now here's a log I just took after fixing the vacuum leak.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15yhPLoP1JSiJ6b8SNC826i1w1DLgb1GHpIpxjZd9arQ/edit?usp=sharing

Why is the AFR still rich? Here's a log before, showing what my AFR is supposed to be.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...F2ChNF3_CwSA1LMb-TLfZvhBhA/edit#gid=991974825
Damn man that's a big diff is the vacc happen to me once the stock hose was burned on the side idk from what my vac was at 12 instead of the usual 17-19
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The crazy thing is that my fuel trims and timing are still poor. I'm going to check for a boost leak and exhaust leak next. Something is off, just gotta chase it down.

This is why I hate FI cars, always some kind of leak or something lol.
When I decelerate, vacuum is -19 to -21 in/Hg. When idling, it's -6.99 to -7.12.

I'm going to keep checking.

Edit: Well shit. All I did was replace the factory vacuum lines on the solenoid and now my idle vacuum is -17.7 to -18.2 in/Hg.

That's really weird.

Oh I see, Torque logs vacuum in PSI not in/Hg. So if I convert -6.9 to in/Hg I get -14.04. So now it's -18 that means I was losing 4 inches of vacuum.

Now it shows -21
Hose from solenoid to what?
Hose from solenoid to what?
Both of the braided hoses connecting to the intercooler. One for the BPV and one for the boost source. While I did have the original clamps on it, it still leaked. I just don't think they're designed to be re-used.

I now suspect that I have an exhaust leak where the downpipe connects to the O2 housing. This would explain my AFRs and I do smell a bit of fuel after WOT with windows down.
Went to an exhaust shop and they removed/reinstalled the downpipe. They said its not leaking.

I'm almost out of ideas, what could be causing my rich AFR and low timing?
Cars broke. :p Just kidding. Ummm... BOV or no? Smoke test yet for the vaccumn to see if there's any leaks you may be missing?
Cars broke. :p Just kidding. Ummm... BOV or no? Smoke test yet for the vaccumn to see if there's any leaks you may be missing?
Hmm, no I haven't checked for any other leaks yet. That's a good idea. I'll double check everything.
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If you have been keeping good records of your fuel consumption, you would be able to tell right away if there is real problem:

Because you miles per gallon will be the figure that will suffer.

If you have not lost any miles per gallon, there is basically no change to the engine performance.

If the above is true for your car - you will then know it's the reader and readout that's faulty.

***
If you have been keeping good records of your fuel consumption, you would be able to tell right away if there is real problem:

Because you miles per gallon will be the figure that will suffer.

If you have not lost any miles per gallon, there is basically no change to the engine performance.

If the above is true for your car - you will then know it's the reader and readout that's faulty.

***
MPG has dropped a good bit.
I'd hate to go here but did you get tuned on spare ecu?
I'm leaning more towards a possible missed vac leak... best sign is timing and afr's are both off. That's just my guess, rechecking can never hurt.
I'd hate to go here but did you get tuned on spare ecu?
we have already talked the tune is not going to just randomly change afr's and timing without input from the car changing
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we have already talked the tune is not going to just randomly change afr's and timing without input from the car changing
Ok I wasn't trying to blame at all just wasn't sure if he checked. You all tuned my car and it's perfectly fine just asking to see if he checked that possibility you know more than me and I accept that lol
Ok I wasn't trying to blame at all just wasn't sure if he checked. You all tuned my car and it's perfectly fine just asking to see if he checked that possibility you know more than me and I accept that lol
I know i was just putting that out there. im thinking its a missed leak someware
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I know i was just putting that out there. im thinking its a missed leak someware
Yeah you're definitely onto something. Also that smell I told you about, I'm pretty sure that's just blowby from the breather hose. I think it might be leaking there or at least enough to where I can smell it coming out. Like I said I only smell it at WOT and I confirmed I have no exhaust leaks. I re-checked the fuel pump and that's all good.
Fixed!

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1tsUsVmhZpaPpC-8qJZLdOxssb2XGkQ1pIR_WBfvMtZc/edit?usp=sharing

AFR is even better than it was before I had issues, forgot to log timing but I was monitoring it live and it looked much better.
How did u fix?
How did u fix?
I had to drive in Sport mode for a certain amount of miles. For whatever reason, if you drive it in D and let it idle for too long or drive it too easy it will revert to a low power map. So you gotta drive it in Sport mode for a while so the car learns to put it in "high performance" map.
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I had to drive in Sport mode for a certain amount of miles. For whatever reason, if you drive it in D and let it idle for too long or drive it too easy it will revert to a low power map. So you gotta drive it in Sport mode for a while so the car learns to put it in "high performance" map.
hehe. automatic problems
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