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My scanner isn't working, but I ran a 14.2 @ 97.17 MPH with a 2.38 60' (i know i know).

All the runs after that were heavily heatsoaked.

Example: 14.4 @ 95.5 with a 2.12 60'
 

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Wow I'm full bolt on and I'm not close to 14.5 maybe it's just where I live
 

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Wife went [email protected] mph last night. Bone stock 2014 VT with the seats out. It was her first pass of the night, and the car was definitely hot (we pulled in, put a number on the windshield and got right on the track). She had a great reaction time, too. ;)

Left lane was a new-ish Mustang V6.



Make sure you post the video in the August Giveaway thread!!!
 

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No way 14.5 stock
 
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Well considering most people muck up the launc, and try and red line the car down the track. I can see better times being pulled with someone being smart, launching properly, shifting at 5000-5400 rpm to keep it in the power band of stock tune. So completel feasible.
 

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I've been at this drag racing thing a while, and I went through the same thing (doubters) with my 2010 Challenger R/T . I set the record for quickest naturally aspirated stock 5.7 engine Hemi back in 2011 and nobody has come close to it three years later. I did it through constant tinkering and weight reduction. If you want to be the quickest, there's more to it than simply showing up and running your car. Not everyone is willing to put in the time and effort to do what it takes to get there.

Same thing with the 14.55 in the Veloster. I can assure you that we have bought nothing for this car besides the 17" Motegi wheels and a set of Weathertech floor mats. We took out the passenger seat and the back seats. The gas tank was down to less than a 1/4 tank. The washer fluid was empty. The glove box and console were empty. We removed the foam block with jack and tools from the trunk. My wife is also pretty light as a driver. We dialed in tire pressures front and rear. We experimented with different launch techniques. Yes, it's an automatic. But still, you can stomp it from an idle, brake torque to 1000, 1500, 2000, etc. Each car on each track will require a different technique.

I provided both a time slip and a video. Not sure what else I can do. Instead of sitting on your couch calling me a liar, I suggest you spend some time figuring out why your car is not as quick as it should be.
 

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I will also say that some bolt ons are grossly overrated. Aftermarket air filters and short ram intakes are worthless. Cat back exhaust systems are just noise. A true cold air intake is worth a few hp, and I am looking into making one. Keeping coolant temps and air intake temps down are on my list. This car will go quicker, and I will be doing it on the cheap. I apologize to the vendors selling expensive crap that does nothing for performance, but I am a believer in time slips, not dyno sheets.
 

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I've been at this drag racing thing a while, and I went through the same thing (doubters) with my 2010 Challenger R/T . I set the record for quickest naturally aspirated stock 5.7 engine Hemi back in 2011 and nobody has come close to it three years later. I did it through constant tinkering and weight reduction. If you want to be the quickest, there's more to it than simply showing up and running your car. Not everyone is willing to put in the time and effort to do what it takes to get there.

Same thing with the 14.55 in the Veloster. I can assure you that we have bought nothing for this car besides the 17" Motegi wheels and a set of Weathertech floor mats. We took out the passenger seat and the back seats. The gas tank was down to less than a 1/4 tank. The washer fluid was empty. The glove box and console were empty. We removed the foam block with jack and tools from the trunk. My wife is also pretty light as a driver. We dialed in tire pressures front and rear. We experimented with different launch techniques. Yes, it's an automatic. But still, you can stomp it from an idle, brake torque to 1000, 1500, 2000, etc. Each car on each track will require a different technique.

I provided both a time slip and a video. Not sure what else I can do. Instead of sitting on your couch calling me a liar, I suggest you spend some time figuring out why your car is not as quick as it should be.
I agree with you....100%....it all falls on the driver.....I have raced cars that I have no busy beating and beat them....with skill and proper technique....as they say practice make perfect and I practice every day....it’s not a shock that when you show proof of your success....that someone tries to scrutinize your proof….but hey congrats to your wife…she did an awesome job….im trying to teach my wife how to handle her beast of a car lol (2013 MS3)
 

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Wife went [email protected] mph last night. Bone stock 2014 VT with the seats out. It was her first pass of the night, and the car was definitely hot (we pulled in, put a number on the windshield and got right on the track). She had a great reaction time, too. ;)

Left lane was a new-ish Mustang V6.



Hmmm really makes me want to see how much weight reductions really does in my full basic bolt ons...
 

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The fact that he's trapping higher than I am seriously concerns me. I have a full downpipe, intake, tork pipe, stage 1.25 tune (22 psi), etc. Either the tune is mucked up or my car has some serious issue.
 

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While this is nice and all, we have other factors to add in.

1. Are you a 2014 (different base map tune on 14's for one)? Which we all know to be a better tune.
2. What elevation are you at in Ohio?
3. Temp/Baro Pressure?
4. How much lighter are the wheels over stock? You dropped to 17's I see.
5. What size tire difference are you running now? Specifically height.

Lots of things can contribute to being faster at the track, I did it for almost 15 years til I had children. I still will, once I can get a break from work lol! First and foremost though, removing all that weight he did, might've gotten him 2/10's a second. It's ROUGHLY 1 tenth for every 100 lbs.. this has been known to fluctuate, especially in lighter cars so he could be gaining closer to 3 or 4 tenths as I don't know how heavy the seats are (front and back). Lastly, the biggest thing that will make for a good time is driver mod, it's the most important one. Lot's of time on the track accounts for knowing things to do, like when to shift, how to launch, feeling which way the car reacts to better, reading time slips and picking up where you need to, etc. I had a bone stock rebuilt 302 in my 85 GT and I took it to the track omw back into town and pulled a 14.2 and bout shit my pants. Soo.. that lead to only one thing, 15 years worth of playing with the Stang and drag racing/autox'ing it with my dad til one day she decided to butt kiss a F150. :\

Good on you for your run Nova, hope to see some more posted and some more great runs!
 

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Answers in red.

1. Are you a 2014 (different base map tune on 14's for one)? Yes, 2014.
2. What elevation are you at in Ohio? Roughly 1200' above sea level.
3. Temp/Baro Pressure? Air temp was around 70*. Not sure about Baro.
4. How much lighter are the wheels over stock? You dropped to 17's I see. The 17's are about 42 lbs (wheel & tire together). Not sure what the stock 18's weigh.
5. What size tire difference are you running now? Specifically height. 215/45R17 (24.8" diameter = same as stock 18's)
 

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Answers in red.
You gained little to nothing on the wheel weight I believe lol. Basically looks like you just had a good driver mod and the temp wasn't too bad for some runs! Nice running Nova!
 

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Don't forget the driver was probably 60-80 lbs. lighter or more. DA values, wheel/tire size & weight are important as well.

It's apparent that NWM has nailed down his bare-bones method & it's working well.
She weighs about 125 lbs and I weigh 165 lbs. That, in combination with removing the seats, would be about 1.5 tenths (using the 100 lbs equals one tenth rule).
 
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