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Discussion Starter #1
Just got my matte grey VT/MT/Ultimate last Sunday. Tint goes on the car Saturday. I have an additional $1,500 to put into the car and am trying to figure out where to get the most bang for my buck. Where did you start your build? Within that price range, what part or parts did you feel gave you the most value? I would like to see a significant spike in HP or MPG.

Please keep in mind that I have the 100k bumper-to-bumper warranty and don't want to void it by any of the work that I do. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me...
 

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Congrats!!! SFR ECU Reflash!!! CAI & you should have a little extra left over to do a few visual things. If you like the sound maybe a BOV? Those are the 1st 3 things I personally would do....OR $1500 could be a really nice stance & maybe some wheels...Oh decisions, decisions!!! Anyhow...Have fun & Enjoy her!!!
 

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Here is what I did. The total cost of everything was about $1500-$1600. You could go cheaper if you replace the wheels or coils but I felt it was a good place to start.

Link to purchases
 

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Since we already have 18's you can get some dope XXR wheels for less than $600 & get coils....Maybe a CAI too. They sound nice in these cars.
 

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Just got my matte grey VT/MT/Ultimate last Sunday. Tint goes on the car Saturday. I have an additional $1,500 to put into the car and am trying to figure out where to get the most bang for my buck. Where did you start your build? Within that price range, what part or parts did you feel gave you the most value? I would like to see a significant spike in HP or MPG.

Please keep in mind that I have the 100k bumper-to-bumper warranty and don't want to void it by any of the work that I do. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me...
If you can wait just a month or two... we will have a package for around that price that pushes the car to 250 WHP and 250 WTQ. None of it should void the factory warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice way to CYA BTW.
I'm a contracts attorney so I noticed the exact same thing. That's not a risk I'm willing to take unless that changes to "WON'T" and the vendor backs the guarantee.

Based on everyone's advice I'm going to shop exhaust, wheels and coil-overs. See what my options are based on the budget and make my selections. What are some exhaust parts that people are using? I couldn't find a thread with details on exhaust
 

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depends on how worried you are about the warranty and what you are looking to really do.

If you are really afraid of the warranty and don't believe that you can throw the magnussen moss act at them if something went wrong, I'd stick with wheels/tires/exhaust and a drop in K&N or some minor intake mods.

If you know about the Magnussen Moss act then, any mods you do such as intake/FMIC/downpipe/catback will only void those portions of the warranties. If you have engine troubles un-related to the intake (unless you removed your filter and sucked int tweety) then they still have to fix the engine.

The tune is one of the only things I would NEVER do if you were concerned with the warranty. Even if you got a spare ECU, I think if they did enough digging, they would be able to figure it out. I am not positive but they may.

If you want to do bolt ons, I would start off with the downpipe and FMIC/Intake combo and then do a catback.

You can gut the cats on your stock downpipe for free and get great performance gains or buy a downpipe from Pierce Motorsports at the moment.

For Intakes, there are many options. Turbosocks (me) 845, AEM, Injen and now Tork. All of the intakes will perform pretty darned close to eachother.

For FMICs, Turbosocks (me) or 845 motorsports. Tork will be developing a high efficiency water/air IC setup.

MPG, not much is going to increase your MPG significantly. More power mods mean you will probably be on the gas more. To get the best MPG, just drive economically, shift low, keep off the throttle. That is my best MPG advice.

For 1500$, you could have full bolt ons with a catless downpipe if you gutted your stocker.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll have to look into the Magnussen Moss Act. Thanks for the detailed advice. I have some research to do! I'll post again when I have a better idea which direction I'm gonna go...to seek additional feedback once my questions are more focused. Thanks all, still happy to hear any other suggestions in the meantime
 

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Nice way to CYA BTW.
One dealer will void while the other is mod friendly, its hard to determine what every dealer will say.

If you put a CAI and exhaust on the car, of course those items will be voided because they are not stock components anymore. If you drive through a lake with your CAI... well duh, of course they will void the warranty for the engine if you have a CAI on the car. The other problem... the dealer will want all the broken parts back so the MFG can start looking at potential failure points. So initially they will be warranting everything (even cars with mods), but after a two or three year period, everything will be getting denied because of "mods". I have seen this time and time again in the dealer vs aftermarket warranty BS. I use to be part of a group of technicians that fought court battles for people who had MFG warranties voided by the local dealers. I fought on behave of the magnus and moss act and had the "experts" question me about the failures of XXX part that caused the voided warranty. My background, training (over 10,000 hours of combined training from Ford, Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler, Saturn, GM, and Master Tech in all 10 categories) and manufacturing helped a lot of people get their warranties restated on their cars.

Sorry about the rant but a little bit of information on what and who I am always helps the members understand better what we do.
 

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Depending on who you get the tune from... some are invisible and some can be seen with the factory scan tool. I can tell you that our tune will be 100% invisible, since we are using the chipset flash inside the PCM there is no recording of the port flash communications. The only way the MFG would be able to see our flash is to pull the PCM out of the car, un-solder the chip set and place it inside of a chip reader for that particular chip. Even then, if we turn off the read... they will not be able to read what we did unless they have our code to unlock the chipset.
 

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First purchase for any MT: BUY SHIFT LINKAGE BUSHINGS! You will thank me later.

Pierce's braces are nice. At least a strut bar. I would recommend the street version (3-pt mounts, 1 crossbar)

Also, get T'socks's rigid collar kit. Cheap, easy, effective handling upgrade.
 

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Depending on who you get the tune from... some are invisible and some can be seen with the factory scan tool. I can tell you that our tune will be 100% invisible, since we are using the chipset flash inside the PCM there is no recording of the port flash communications. The only way the MFG would be able to see our flash is to pull the PCM out of the car, un-solder the chip set and place it inside of a chip reader for that particular chip. Even then, if we turn off the read... they will not be able to read what we did unless they have our code to unlock the chipset.
Dayum that's awesome to know!!!
 

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I'm a contracts attorney so I noticed the exact same thing. That's not a risk I'm willing to take unless that changes to "WON'T" and the vendor backs the guarantee.

Based on everyone's advice I'm going to shop exhaust, wheels and coil-overs. See what my options are based on the budget and make my selections. What are some exhaust parts that people are using? I couldn't find a thread with details on exhaust
Dealer can claim abuse and void your warranty with no aftermarket parts on the car, seen it done many times. There is no possible way you could put "won't" void the warranty because some dealers are just pricks. We do have an option to buy an aftermarket warranty that will support our parts upgrades, but they have to be listed as a "staged" upgrade with a clear definition of the power gained and parts installed. We use to offer this for our diesel customers when I worked on diesels. Its a power train only warranty.
 

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for $1500, I would take $500 and do a couple track days or autocross sessions. Learn how to drive what you have now and get the most out of it. This will make you faster regardless of what car you have and is something that will out last the car. Just because the car has more power, less weight, better handling, etc, doesn't make it any faster than the driver can make it. If you say you don't care about performance on the track, then doing any kind of modification for just the street is useless in my opinion, as the track is the only place you will really be able to tell results from modifications. I took 2 seconds off my average time on a 40 second autocross course by riding with experienced driver and having them give me pointers. I highly doubt anything but tires would make that big of a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
for $1500, I would take $500 and do a couple track days or autocross sessions. Learn how to drive what you have now and get the most out of it. This will make you faster regardless of what car you have and is something that will out last the car. Just because the car has more power, less weight, better handling, etc, doesn't make it any faster than the driver can make it. If you say you don't care about performance on the track, then doing any kind of modification for just the street is useless in my opinion, as the track is the only place you will really be able to tell results from modifications. I took 2 seconds off my average time on a 40 second autocross course by riding with experienced driver and having them give me pointers. I highly doubt anything but tires would make that big of a difference.
Fair point. I should probably focus on things with at least some cosmetic value (exhaust - sound, coils - stance) vs. pure performance parts.
 
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