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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,

I posted here a while ago about issues with my 2013 veloster turbo having misfires at higher rpm and boost (Engine Knock under high RPM/Boost). Well, overtime the engine blew and has been replaced. I have been having issues with this new engine and the car is now not under warranty, so I am looking into ways to fix this and am stuck troubleshooting. There are about 30,000 miles on this new engine, and up until about 3 days ago the car was running fantastic.

My car is currently set up as follows;
k&n typhoon intake
845 FMIC
synapse DV
occ on pcv/breather vented to atmosphere
6EE braided fuel line
deatschwerks dw65c fuel pump
I have a BTRcc tune but am not running it as I am having these issues even on stock with the mods listed

I have taken a data log, here it is: datazap.me | opeth115 | misfiresss

As you can see, in the beginning of my log I have some rough idle issues (3 stumbles), as well as a few at the end (2 more stumbles). It looks like there is something causing the car to think it is becoming too rich, and the car reacts by spiking the negative fuel trims. During these periods you can also see that my voltage control drops from the standard ~14V while running down to around 13 with each of these idle dips. I have tested my battery with the vehicle off and it only tests around 12.2V. I know this is low as it should be hovering around the 12.6V mark, correct?

While running my car at idle the voltage sits around 14V at the terminals making me think the alternator is fine, and that it is in fact the battery going out. Could the battery really be causing these issues? I have gone over every ground in the engine bay, ground them to bare metal, and placed an anti-oxidation guard on their connections in order to prevent corrosion, so my grounds SHOULD all be ok.

On top of the idle issue, I am having misfires, or detonation, at higher RPM's under any load that is bassically more than 50% throttle. I have tested each of my ignition coils; each of them tests at 0.95 ohms, which is in spec when you subtract the added 0.15 resistance of my older multi-meter leads (spec is 0.79 ohms +/- 15%). I have replaced my spark plugs with both autolight XP5702's as well as HKS M40XL's gapped to 0.028 and the results are the same - misfiring/detonation under any appreciable load.

I am honestly not sure where else to look. Could it be cam or crank position sensor related? How would I start to troubleshoot those?

Or, could it be as simple as just the battery that is causing these misfires and idle issues? No Knock or Knock retard is recorded during these misfire events, and you can see that in the log; the events occured after the three idle dips and before the last two idle dips.

Any help and/or guidance is beneficial to me right now as I need to get this car into decent shape for the foreseeable future. Please let me know if I have broken any rules in my post and I will amend or change whatever I need to in order to adhere to your rules. Thanks!
 

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Any codes?

Check for leaks on the PCV side. Hook the PCV side up like OEM to see if it eliminates any issues.

Be sure the breather side is free flowing.

Check for any boost/vacuum leaks.

Check everything under test results in the torque app. Report back anything not good and misfires per cylinder current and avg last 10 drive cycles.

The coils could be bad but test good if that's all you checked. How many miles on the coils? Were they replaced with the engine? What caused the first engine failure? Do not answer misfires.....

Im glad you provide a log but be sure to log better to help find issues next go round.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Any codes?

Check for leaks on the PCV side. Hook the PCV side up like OEM to see if it eliminates any issues.

Be sure the breather side is free flowing.

Check for any boost/vacuum leaks.

Check everything under test results in the torque app. Report back anything not good and misfires per cylinder current and avg last 10 drive cycles.

The coils could be bad but test good if that's all you checked. How many miles on the coils? Were they replaced with the engine? What caused the first engine failure? Do not answer misfires.....

Im glad you provide a log but be sure to log better to help find issues next go round.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, and thanks for the quick response.

So after taking the car out to do some necessary errands, I managed to get it to post both P0300 and P0303 CEL's. Here is the CEL log with those reported:

Code:
Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================

Vehicle VIN:
Vehicle Manufacturer: Hyundai
Vehicle Calibration ID: GTFS-FNU6FF03600U

Current Fault Log
------------------
P2261: Turbo/Super Charger Bypass Valve - Mechanical

Pending Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no pending faults

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

End of report.
and here are the results of the tests in torque:

Code:
Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================

Vehicle VIN: KMHTC6AE1DU135094
Vehicle Manufacturer: Hyundai
Vehicle Calibration ID: GTFS-FNU6FF03600U

Test report:
------------------
MID:$01 TID:$30
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$01 TID:$32
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 3.09978V   Min: 0V
Test result value: 2.801V
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$33
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 7.99527V   Min: 0.00976V
Test result value: 1.31772V
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$34
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$02 TID:$03
Low sensor Voltage for switch time calculation - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 0.66856V   Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.66856V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$04
High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 1.2444V   Min: 0.66856V
Test result value: 0.66856V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$05
Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 300ms   Min: 0ms
Test result value: 50ms
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$06
Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$02 TID:$07
Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 0.24864V   Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.2329V
PASS
----
MID:$21 TID:$8e
- Catalyst Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$35 TID:$91
-
Max: 16.17°   Min: -3.83°
Test result value: 6.46°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$92
-
Max: 16.17°   Min: -3.83°
Test result value: 6.46°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$93
-
Max: 25.2°   Min: 15°
Test result value: 25.18°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$94
-
Max: 25.2°   Min: 15°
Test result value: 25.18°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$95
-
Max: 242°   Min: -269.97998°
Test result value: -14.84°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$96
-
Max: 281.19998°   Min: -230.78999°
Test result value: 25.17°
PASS
----
MID:$39 TID:$80
-
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3b TID:$80
- EVAP Monitor (0.090")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3c TID:$80
- EVAP Monitor (0.040")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3d TID:$88
- EVAP Monitor (0.020")
Max: 8,191.75Pa   Min: -2,061.5Pa
Test result value: 279.5Pa
PASS
----
MID:$41 TID:$81
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
Max: 6,553.5°C   Min: 760°C
Test result value: 819.70001°C
PASS
----
MID:$42 TID:$8c
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 2
Max: 1,284Ohm   Min: 0Ohm
Test result value: 106Ohm
PASS
----
MID:$81 TID:$a1
- Fuel System Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$81 TID:$a3
- Fuel System Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$81 TID:$a5
- Fuel System Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$81 TID:$a7
- Fuel System Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$a2 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 1 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 1Count
PASS
----
MID:$a2 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 1 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 2Count
PASS
----
MID:$a3 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 2 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a3 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 2 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a4 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 3 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 7Count
PASS
----
MID:$a4 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 3 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 56Count
PASS
----
MID:$a5 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 4 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a5 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 4 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----


End of report.
as you can see, there is a higher misfire count on cylinder three so i moved the coil to cylinder one and tried to recreate a CEL. I was unable to recreate the CEL, but now in test results there are a ton of misfires for cylinder one.

Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================

Vehicle VIN: KMHTC6AE1DU135094
Vehicle Manufacturer: Hyundai
Vehicle Calibration ID: GTFS-FNU6FF03600U

Test report:
------------------
MID:$01 TID:$30
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$01 TID:$32
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 3.09978V Min: 0V
Test result value: 2.79026V
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$33
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0.00976V
Test result value: 0.60146V
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$34
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$02 TID:$03
Low sensor Voltage for switch time calculation - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 0.66856V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.66856V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$04
High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 1.2444V Min: 0.66856V
Test result value: 0.66856V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$05
Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 300ms Min: 0ms
Test result value: 50ms
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$06
Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 450ms Min: 0ms
Test result value: 40ms
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$07
Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 0.24864V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.20167V
PASS
----
MID:$21 TID:$8e
- Catalyst Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$35 TID:$91
-
Max: -3.99° Min: -13.99°
Test result value: -13.99°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$92
-
Max: -3.99° Min: -13.99°
Test result value: -13.99°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$93
-
Max: 25.2° Min: 15°
Test result value: 25.16°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$94
-
Max: 25.2° Min: 15°
Test result value: 25.16°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$95
-
Max: 242° Min: -269.97998°
Test result value: -15.1°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$96
-
Max: 281.19998° Min: -230.78999°
Test result value: 24.02°
PASS
----
MID:$39 TID:$80
-
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3b TID:$80
- EVAP Monitor (0.090")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3c TID:$80
- EVAP Monitor (0.040")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3d TID:$88
- EVAP Monitor (0.020")
Max: 8,191.75Pa Min: -2,271.5Pa
Test result value: 185.5Pa
PASS
----
MID:$41 TID:$81
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
Max: 6,553.5°C Min: 760°C
Test result value: 819.70001°C
PASS
----
MID:$42 TID:$8c
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 2
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$81 TID:$a1
- Fuel System Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$81 TID:$a3
- Fuel System Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$81 TID:$a5
- Fuel System Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$81 TID:$a7
- Fuel System Monitor Bank 1
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$a2 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 1 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 1Count
PASS
----
MID:$a2 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 1 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 160Count
PASS
----
MID:$a3 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 2 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a3 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 2 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 4Count
PASS
----
MID:$a4 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 3 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a4 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 3 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 1Count
PASS
----
MID:$a5 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 4 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a5 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 4 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 25Count
PASS
----


End of report.
What do you think? Should I just replace all of my coils given the random cylinder misfire code? What else should I check on the coils besides that resistance measurement to make sure they are bad?
 

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did you take care of the P2261 as well?
 

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Replace with the proper new OEM coils(I have a set with less than a tank of gas on em) and gap all of the HKS M40XL plugs to .024". Only run 91+ fuel in the car. The 13 oem tune and the BTR tune are both crap so need all the help you can get.
 

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Interesting note about misfires, according to the OBD (mostly as a note for anyone browsing this topic): Misfires are basically presumed, not conclusive. The electronics do not know for sure that a misfire occurred, it is presumed based on a number of factors. Even a bumpy road can result in a misfire being presumed and logged. The fact that you are getting enough to actually post a CEL would indicate that you do have something you need to look into. The stumbling while idling is probably where most of the actual misfires are occurring. I am actually one of the few people that recommends against running high octane in these cars, and I will tell you why. High octane burns hotter. It makes the pistons and cylinder walls hotter than intended. Extra heat is a big cause of the pre-ignition that you are attempting to prevent.. by making it run hotter... My 2016 VT is the third turbocharged/supercharged car I have had, and probably about the 12th vehicle I have owned. I have never had an engine fail in any vehicle I have owned. The VT is the first car I ever deviated from strictly adhering to the philosophy of using the lowest octane rating recommended by the manufacturer. I started running 91, and then 93 and back to 91 and even insisted my butt-dyno felt a difference. It made no difference. I started having trouble with coolant temps increasing in parts of my commute that I never had trouble with before. I started noticing misfires and started looking at my OBD app for confirmation. As someone who put almost 190mi a day on my VT commuting, I started to get a feel for it pretty quickly and knew something wasn't right. I even started having trouble with the car suddenly acting like the gas pedal was not responding when I would feel a miss when I was trying to accelerate quickly sometimes. I ended up reading about Unleaded 88 (15% ethanol blend) NOT E85! and how it offers the benefits of higher octane gas but burns cooler. I have used Unleaded 88 for about the last 10000 miles and have not had any trouble with performance or temps and the car runs great. I still get a little bit of a stumble when it is warming up, but every car I have ever owned will stumble sometimes while warming up. A lot of people will state it's even to be expected.
 

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Let me preface this by saying I've datalogged and tuned more VT's than all but maybe one or two members here on the forum.

Higher octane will burn a little hotter in some cases in the engine as it does make more dyno and datalog proven power however it will not create any drastic temperature rises or cause more misfires due to the heat absorbed and dumped by many systems in the car.

A VT will tend to gain up to 1-2° of ignition timing advance going from 87 to 93 E10 fuel on the OEM tune and there has been no measurable coolant or oil temperature gains between the two and the logger has a 1.8°F resolution. Now, when I add significant timing in a tune and/or lean out the fueling there will be measured difference of maybe 3.6°F in coolant temperatures.

You will for sure not notice a power change going between 91 and 93 on a stock tune as the car gains maybe 10 hp going from 87 to 93, which few can feel that via butt dyno, and you're talking 1/3 of that octane differential.

If you had issues with the higher octane fuel you claim then most likely not the fuel if it was top tier but rather something else about the car. The reason why the 88 may run better is due to the higher E content of the fuel making it run richer AFR from the different lambda of the fuels that keeps things cooler than the 91 or 93 octane fuel which in most cases is E0-E10 range. Highway miles is some of the hardest conditions these cars will ever see hands down due to the heat in the engine components.

If you have these said issues on 91 or 93 you need to consider many other things that will cause this such as mileage on the coils, mileage on the plugs, mileage on the oil, oil and filter used, oil temperatures, fuel quality, intake air temperatures, and the lack of a good tune in the car to name a few things.
 

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Let me preface this by saying I've datalogged and tuned more VT's than all but maybe one or two members here on the forum.

Higher octane will burn a little hotter in some cases in the engine as it does make more dyno and datalog proven power however it will not create any drastic temperature rises or cause more misfires due to the heat absorbed and dumped by many systems in the car.

A VT will tend to gain up to 1-2° of ignition timing advance going from 87 to 93 E10 fuel on the OEM tune and there has been no measurable coolant or oil temperature gains between the two and the logger has a 1.8°F resolution. Now, when I add significant timing in a tune and/or lean out the fueling there will be measured difference of maybe 3.6°F in coolant temperatures.

You will for sure not notice a power change going between 91 and 93 on a stock tune as the car gains maybe 10 hp going from 87 to 93, which few can feel that via butt dyno, and you're talking 1/3 of that octane differential.

If you had issues with the higher octane fuel you claim then most likely not the fuel if it was top tier but rather something else about the car. The reason why the 88 may run better is due to the higher E content of the fuel making it run richer AFR from the different lambda of the fuels that keeps things cooler than the 91 or 93 octane fuel which in most cases is E0-E10 range. Highway miles is some of the hardest conditions these cars will ever see hands down due to the heat in the engine components.

If you have these said issues on 91 or 93 you need to consider many other things that will cause this such as mileage on the coils, mileage on the plugs, mileage on the oil, oil and filter used, oil temperatures, fuel quality, intake air temperatures, and the lack of a good tune in the car to name a few things.
Thank you for your insight and I respect your knowledge. I have read your input on several threads and I appreciate your work.
A couple of notes on the information you provided..
I think we can both agree that sustained real-world use and results from dyno runs can potentially (dare I say almost certainly) end up with a few noticeably different observations. As you mentioned, highway miles are tough conditions. A 95 mile commute is hard on just about any car.
We know that the combustion process with higher octane fuel generates higher temperatures. This will cause the combustion chamber to reach higher temperatures. If the coolant temp and oil temp do not change much, this does not dispute that information, what that tells us is that the higher temperature region is not resulting in the overall temperatures of the engine increasing, or potentially that the coolant and oil are doing a negligible job of drawing that additional heat away.
As for the other factors, I originally bought my VT just over a year ago with 28K miles on it and started trying different fuels soon after that. I used almost exclusively top tier fuels but did try a couple others to see how it affected performance. With putting almost 1000 miles on the car per week, I was able to run fuel through it pretty quickly. For most of the miles my fuel of choice was Shell 91, though I did run about 5000 miles of each of Mobil 91 and Sunoco 93. Even with putting that many miles per week on the car I was getting the oil and filter changed at scheduled intervals with full synthetic at the Hyundai dealer. At about 48000 miles I changed the spark plugs to new NGK OEM rated spark plugs and I have also changed the intake. This was around the time that I switched to unleaded 88 (around 50K miles) and now I have just passed 60K miles. I actually pulled a sample of the oil before the oil change before switching fuels and I was going to send it off to Blackstone for analysis to get a little more information about how the car has been running but I never got around to sending that off. IDK if the sample will be valid anymore, I need to check with them.
 

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VT cooling systems are not great. I've seen worse and I've seen better. They did make a small change for 16+ that helps some but still not great. With the engine coolant, oil, and transmission fluid circuits all tied together things get very hot at sustained higher rpm such as racing or on the highway. The solution to this is colder thermostat, higher psi radiator cap, and higher distilled water coolant with water wetter. I've been doing this for many years and I've had cars showing KR on 93 making less power then make more power and no KR on the same fuel same conditions after these simple mods. Even no KR on 87 after this on a car. Amazing what a 15-20°F drop in coolant temperature can do in these. Will drop the oil temperatures some as well as transmission fluid temperature.

VT coils do not last forever. Some get high mileage out of them some do not. Overall I see many needing new coils in the 50k mile area on avg especially if tuned. Many things can effect coil life though and things can be done proactively to lengthen that life.

VT OEM plugs are not good in the early years and mediocre in the newer models. None have been gapped from the OEM to an ideal range off the showroom floor much less after 45k miles or so when scheduled to be changed after they've burnt out to even wider gaps.

VT OEM tune is like plugs, bad in early years and mediocre in the newer models.

Fuel matters a lot in both octane rating and E%. The higher E% will make it run richer which will help reduce K/KR and higher octane suppresses K/KR but the fueling will not be as rich. The quality of the fuel is also important due to the chemical makeup and can vary enough even at the same pump octane due to variations in the RON and MON of the fuels which are not listed in the US.

Oil that the dealer uses and their scheduled OCI are most times incorrect/mediocre at best for these cars. This has been gone over many times. Even after Hyundai announced that the oil viscosity on the oil cap and in the manual were not correct as well as oil drain and fill amount were incorrect and listed new recommendations most do not even go by this. Most do not even use synthetic oil but rather a blend or a synthetic base oil. None of this is good for the brand in general but were just dealing with human nature that works there.

Carbon buildup is an issue and will cause K/KR in this car. It's worse in OEM form than any other form and can change based on the fuel and oil used and conditions the car is put through. Mostly due to being GDi and having blowby.

Then, let's not forget about false K/KR. So many things can cause this in these cars and can be a you know what to track down.....

I'm leaving out some things but these are the bigger items nonetheless.....
 

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all this makes me think i've been extremely lucky with the racing miles on my car and the fact i just have a stupid evap code to deal with ... more on that later.
 

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I don't mean to scare the OP but do a compression test or even have a leakdown done. I had misfiring on my stock engine in cylinder 3 and a few days went by and boom the rod blew through the block.

Cross your T's and don't your I's
 

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To add. The VT engine is easy to dissamble and it's cheaper to replace the rods with good ones than replace the entire short block because the rod destroyed the cylinder wall lol
 

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VT cooling systems are not great. I've seen worse and I've seen better. They did make a small change for 16+ that helps some but still not great. With the engine coolant, oil, and transmission fluid circuits all tied together things get very hot at sustained higher rpm such as racing or on the highway. The solution to this is colder thermostat, higher psi radiator cap, and higher distilled water coolant with water wetter. I've been doing this for many years and I've had cars showing KR on 93 making less power then make more power and no KR on the same fuel same conditions after these simple mods. Even no KR on 87 after this on a car. Amazing what a 15-20°F drop in coolant temperature can do in these. Will drop the oil temperatures some as well as transmission fluid temperature.

VT coils do not last forever. Some get high mileage out of them some do not. Overall I see many needing new coils in the 50k mile area on avg especially if tuned. Many things can effect coil life though and things can be done proactively to lengthen that life.

VT OEM plugs are not good in the early years and mediocre in the newer models. None have been gapped from the OEM to an ideal range off the showroom floor much less after 45k miles or so when scheduled to be changed after they've burnt out to even wider gaps.

VT OEM tune is like plugs, bad in early years and mediocre in the newer models.

Fuel matters a lot in both octane rating and E%. The higher E% will make it run richer which will help reduce K/KR and higher octane suppresses K/KR but the fueling will not be as rich. The quality of the fuel is also important due to the chemical makeup and can vary enough even at the same pump octane due to variations in the RON and MON of the fuels which are not listed in the US.

Oil that the dealer uses and their scheduled OCI are most times incorrect/mediocre at best for these cars. This has been gone over many times. Even after Hyundai announced that the oil viscosity on the oil cap and in the manual were not correct as well as oil drain and fill amount were incorrect and listed new recommendations most do not even go by this. Most do not even use synthetic oil but rather a blend or a synthetic base oil. None of this is good for the brand in general but were just dealing with human nature that works there.

Carbon buildup is an issue and will cause K/KR in this car. It's worse in OEM form than any other form and can change based on the fuel and oil used and conditions the car is put through. Mostly due to being GDi and having blowby.

Then, let's not forget about false K/KR. So many things can cause this in these cars and can be a you know what to track down.....

I'm leaving out some things but these are the bigger items nonetheless.....
Sounds like a lot of extra stuff if it’s not adding much heat..
My temp just hovers right around 179/180 which is the thermostat temp, even in stop and go traffic segments. The highest coolant temp I have seen was right around 217 degrees and that was when I ruled I was doing something wrong by running 91. I had thought about putting a lower temp thermostat in there but then I realized that the way this is engineered seems to be so that the thermostat isn’t always open and thus allowing the radiator to hold a cooler charge of coolant. Having 160deg coolant constantly flowing through the radiator is not going to be ideal for keeping heat soak away from the stock intercooler and also going to reduce the effectiveness of the AC. I have never used water wetter and never will. I have never seen any kind of thermodynamics that would support the idea of an additive lowering the temperature of a coolant and that somehow not correlating to a reduction of heat transfer from the body that it is attempting to cool. You can’t transfer temp X from point A to point B while measuring at (lower) temp Y while doing so. If it was effectively drawing heat away from the engine, the coolant temp should increase. I suppose if it’s heat transfer properties were so efficient that the metal of the radiator ran much hotter than stock because the additive was increasing the heat transfer to the radiator, but I have never seen such a study to support that and I am not going to try it myself. Obviously it seems effective because the measurement of the coolant drops, but IMO (as with many others) that’s just a false sense of success. Most of the people that do use it even advise against prolonged use and advise that it’s intended to be a track product and it turns to goop
Getting into the oil changes, it seems rather silly to imply that a dealer being sneaky and saving a few bucks by putting in a synthetic blend instead of full synthetic would in any way be the norm. That could be found out very quick and the legal consequences be disastrous to say the least. The MFR recommended oil change interval is actually quite overzealous for full synthetic, not mediocre. Full synthetic has been tested time and time again to maintain adequate or even exceptional protection beyond 10K miles even. I mostly only got it changed at the interval in the computer to keep Carfax happy. Now I plan to keep the car so I don’t care about the Carfax report. The fill amount is actually quite a funny topic if you look around this and other Veloster forums (though I have seen the same topic on many other car forums) and it’s amazing how many people don’t understand that the oil capacity for an engine is always more than the fill amount. When you drain your oil, you will never get it all out. People will try to put in the “oil capacity” and wonder why it is 1-2+ Q over full. Lol
But, I will confirm my car is a 2016, so it’s cooling may be a little more adequate. I have a stock tune and a custom open element intake. It has seen a lot of highway miles and a tremendous amount of stop and go. It has never seen a track though it has seen many open deserted roads. It’s not the fastest VT out there but it will do 0-60 in the 5s range in cool weather if I can get the traction. I maintain confidence that getting away from 91+ octane was a good decision for my setup, driving conditions, climate, and driving style. Other setups may vary. The only statistic mileage related that really seems relevant for my car is the mileage has only gone up since I stopped having trouble. All of those components you mention have 10K more miles on them now then when I was having trouble.



I digress to the OP...
Have you done any investigating into the P2261 code? Misfire codes could contribute to that, but since you have several other issues going on it seems more likely that the P2261 is going to be the one to troubleshoot and the misfires are just a symptom of the greater problem.

The battery would have to be a tremendous parasitic loss to actually cause ignition trouble. Once the car is started, the battery is out of the picture unless it is in such poor shape that it is a huge burden on the alternator. The voltage alone only tells you a tiny bit about the battery. To be such a burden on the car, it would need dead cells (which would be obvious with voltage test and is probably what you were trying to rule out) or a very high internal resistance. Can you test that? If not, any auto parts store can. If 12.2 is the highest it will go, internal resistance is likely an issue. As a battery degrades, it’s internal resistance goes up and it’s maximum potential voltage goes down.

Are any of these symptoms precursors to when the previous engine blew? You have Torque, are you watching other things like AF ratio? Is the Actual reaching the Commanded? Are you familiar with those?
Does the 2013 have any exhaust temps available through OBD?
 

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How did you get coolant to 217°F? And do not say because the fuel as that's 100% not the cause of it.

How will 160°F not be better to help heat soak and cooling than 180°F coolant?

How is the A/C changed in any way by the coolant temperature when the radiator fan is on when the A/C is on?

Obviously you have not done much research on water wetter online or in person with apples to apples tests. I have and can tell you it works, just not what many may claim. More water content actually makes the most difference.

Dealers have been know to not use great oil or oil change intervals. Users here in the VT community actual determined that oil grade could be better before Hyundai mentioned that 5W-40 should be used. Also many have done their own research to support what oils are best and oil change intervals based on engine wear and UOA. Just because you use a good oil does not mean you can go the mileage the oil is recommended for. Example local guy I tuned blamed my tune on his bad UOA. Sent it to me and he had 10k miles on the oil. I'm like wtf joking right. Since he used oil guaranteed for over 10k miles that's what he was going to run it to to save $. Does not work that way at all especially in an engine with low oil capacity and low and poor filtration capacity. And high blowby with oil dilution with fuel an issue.
 
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