[Richtazz]

I really appreciate everyone's input. I used to be a moderator on another car forum for GM cars, and I know it always made me feel good when I could help someone. I will be doing the fuel line replacement this weekend, and have ordered the coils (may get here Saturday for installation this weekend as well). I will boroscope the cylinders, do a compression check and post all results here.

In case anyone thought I was searching for a "cure in a can" or something, that is not the case. I tried to present my issues as clearly and detailed as possible, as I know that is the best way to get the right advice. Just didn't want to throw money away on things not needed. You guys are the experts on this model, I am but a humble noob.

Thanks again everyone!
Rich

 

[E9C900A]

No problem, everyone was new once.

If you have a multimeter, check the electrical resistance of the main grounding points (both strut towers to start) and report back with this info, please. Pics are best to confirm ohm values.

 

[Richtazz]

No problem, everyone was new once.

If you have a multimeter, check the electrical resistance of the main grounding points (both strut towers to start) and report back with this info, please. Pics are best to confirm ohm values.

I read where Hyundai attached the grounds to the body without scraping paint. I took both strut tower grounds off, and scuffed the paint to bare metal and reattached. Should I also do the one I can see by the overflow reservoir with the odd looking multi-wired connectors attached?

Do you want me to detach the grounds and read the resistance between them and where they mount to the body, or am I testing something else?

 

[E9C900A]

Exactly. If you have a bit of exposed metal at each grounding point you cleaned up, check resistance against the negative terminal (with wires still connected). Sure, you can clean the one under the coolant reservoir and also the transmission connection at the frame (under airbox) also.

 

[theunderdog]

I read where Hyundai attached the grounds to the body without scraping paint.

Hmmm..this is new info for me. I gotta look at my car also.

 

[E9C900A]

https://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12639&p=336461#/topics/12639?page=1

 

[Richtazz]

okay, here are the photos you requested E9C900A.

battery to d-side strut tower
battery to p-side strut tower
Cyl 1 coil
Cyl 2 coil
Cyl 3 coil
Cyl 4 coil
Meter baseline (touching 2 leads together)

Also, is the OBDlink MX worth the extra cost for these cars over the OBDLink LX? I have a portable scan tool that can run live data but the record/playback function is trash, I think I would like the ability to log things as I have read these can do.

 

[E9C900A]

Not unless you plan on using CAN functionality with GM or Ford vehicles.

Nice work on the grounding point cleanup.

 

[Richtazz]

The coil measurements are across the two terminals where the harness plugs in (primary side) just for clarification

 

[E9C900A]

Not sure if your multimeter is rounding up, but the maximum value is .9085 ohms as per the service manual:

However, as we all (should) know, resistance values rise as air and material temperatures rise. Spec value is at 68°F.

 

[Richtazz]

Not sure if your multimeter is rounding up, but the maximum value is .9085 ohms as per the service manual:

However, as we all (should) know, resistance values rise as air and material temperatures rise. Spec value is at 68°F.

The coils fixed it. Since winter has decided to return to the murder mitten (Michigan), I will wait until better weather to do the fuel line, but it will be getting done as well. After swapping the coils (new ones ohmed out at 0.8 vs 0.10 on the old ones), I took it for a test drive. It now pulls clean all the way past 5,500 rpm through 3rd, 4th, and into 5th without a hiccup. I guess, since the HPFP is mechanical, the fuel pressure dropped because of the misfires rather than vise-versa? Anyhow, thank you so very much to everyone, especially E9C900A for all the great advice. It's nice to have her running as she should.

 

[Richtazz]

Well, the misfires have returned. A few good days, and now it's undrivable trash. Forgot my scan tool at work, so no idea what is causing the issues now, but it's worse than ever. New coils all still check out fine (primary side anyway, didn't check secondary resistances) I still think it's fuel related, but just guessing since I couldn't scan it. FML.

 

[E9C900A]

Earlier you said you were installing an aftermarket fuel line...

Did that get done?

 

[Richtazz]

I delayed the fuel line replacement when the new coils arrived and the car was running well due to the weather. I loaned my scope to a mechanic friend, so I cannot scope the cylinders yet.

The replacement coils I bought (Standard Ignition Intermotor line, as my local dealer didn't have any OEM available for a week) are what caused the latest issue, went bad in 3 days. All 4 are already out of spec , primary spec okay, all are .08 ohms, but way low on the secondary side (5.48k, 3.55k, 5.55k, and 5.48k).

The oddest issue now, is I cannot get a secondary side reading on my original coils I took out. The primary side all still read 0.10 (with a .01 correction factor on my meter, so borderline high end of acceptable .09 ohms), but the secondary side shows open on all 4, yet the car was still running on them, admittedly not well.

 

[E9C900A]

OEM coils only.

 

[Richtazz]

Learned my lesson, will get OEM coils on Saturday...spendy little rascals. Paying my pittance, having to drive the wife's minivan for a couple days. Soccer practice anyone? :wink:

 

[trdtoy]

Oem coils are less than $200 shipped a set and can get them in less than a week.

 

[Richtazz]

Okay, sorry about the delay in responding. The OEM coils fixed the misfires and the car is running well. Compression test was done and all cylinders are well within spec (all were with a few psi of each other in the 185-190 range) after warm up and with coils and fuel pump disabled. Boroscope not done, as my mechanic "buddy" broke mine ( I know better than to loan people my tools...grr!), so I'm waiting for him to replace it. Since the car is running well now, I am less concerned about it's need to be done, but I still want to do it.

I want to now address the mods needed to address the factory issues.

I have seen differences of opinion on the oil catch can mod. Some have said PCV valve side, some say breather side, some say both. I do not want an oil choked turbo or intake valves, so suggestions please.

On the clutch pedal mod, what exactly does this do, defeat the "rev matching" ECM programming that from what I have read seems to cause a hiccup in the 1-2 shift making that difficult to do smoothly?

On the torque app for the OBD-Link MX. Does anyone have a good write up or website I can visit to learn this program better? The OBD-Link MX is a pretty impressive little device I must say. Also, is there any app that would make it ABS compatible?

Lastly, I am blessed to know my dealer's parts people and one of their service guys personally through work. They told me that this upcoming recall will most likely affect my car since it's a 2013, and may even get me reimbursed for the coils. We will see on that.

So, thanks again to everyone that has answered my past questions, and thanks in advance to any and all that answer my new ones. This forum is an excellent place to go for answers.

Rich

 

[TooGqForYou]

I have seen differences of opinion on the oil catch can mod. Some have said PCV valve side, some say breather side, some say both. I do not want an oil choked turbo or intake valves, so suggestions please.

THIS: https://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/veloster-performance/26906-breather-pcv-discussion.html

 

[Richtazz]

THIS: https://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/veloster-performance/26906-breather-pcv-discussion.html

That is one looooooooooong convoluted thread. So many different opinions and "solutions" to the issue of oil vapor coking. At first I thought why put a catch can on the breather side, that's incoming air... until I read how these turbos start venting through the breather side as vacuum drops on the pcv side and it closes (excess CC pressure has to go somewhere). So much info, but good info to have for a forced induction noob like myself.