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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The title says it all, I just did a routine oil change and after finishing up and parking the car I noticed an excessive amount of oil leaving a nice little trail to my parking spot. This of course happens the one and ONLY time I didn't run the car after the change to check for leaks prior to taking it off my jack stands... I got a pretty good video of the leak I'm going to post and to me it looks like the gasket above the oil filter. Originally I had thought it was a bad seal on the oil filter, after replacing that today I found that's not the case - which became the point I took this video. If you have any advice or would confirm my suspicions I would highly appreciate it! If it is a gasket how hard is it for one to simply replace or seal one?

New video by Jonathan Paplia
 

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2014 Veloster Turbo Manual
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That whole oil unit comes off. There’s a gasket above it. I’m not sure if you can get the gasket separately.
 

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2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
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Not hard to do with proper tools. Here is what another member did to correct the issue. Another used gasket maker. Most have to buy a new oil cooler assembly when not doing these which costs more $.
105030
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the information guys! Tried the gasket maker with little to no success. I decided I'm just going to replace the whole oil cooler! I drained all the oi and got 1 of 2 of the coolant hoses off so far (one is in a SUPER cramped area, going to knock that out tomorrow). As for detaching the oil cooler itself, I've seen a lot of oil coolers where the bolts to unscrew the unit are revealed when you remove the oil filter itself. I don't see any obvious bolts/screws though, what am I missing? where is this thing bolted on from? - Thanks in advance, highly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
UPDATE: Went and got a new oil cooler from my Hyundai dealership and replaced the old one. I also put some gasket maker between the metal body of the new oil cooler and the engine where it connects for some extra measure. Worked BEAUTIFULLY. If anyone else happens to have this problem in the future

You'll need: (1) oil cooler, (1) 1 3/16th socket, (1) breaker bar 1/2 Inch Drive, pliers, gasket maker (if you want to be extra like me), New oil, more engine coolant, and I recommend some new adjustable clamps for the coolant hoses (the ones stock on the car make is extremely hard to put back on by yourself).

Steps:
1.
Drain all your oil starting with your oil pan, then remove your oil filter and allow the rest of the oil to drain out completely.
2. If you can disconnect the (2) coolant hoses that are attached to the oil cooler (Warning: a lot of coolant will spill out so be prepared with a pan to catch it all).
3. With your breaker bar (1/2 inch drive) and your 1 3/16th's socket loosen the gigantic lug nut that's revealed when you removed the oil filter. (This will take a bit to completely remove, when it's all the way loose it will fall out of the old oil cooler, keep this to the side as you'll be using it to re-attach the new oil cooler).
4. - ONLY IF YOU DIDN'T ALREADY REMOVE THE COOLANT HOSES - If you weren't able to previously detach said hoses now they may be much easier to reach due to being able to manipulate the oil cooler in ways to better reach said hoses. Simply use some pliers to squeeze the clamps off the oil cooler and pull the hoses back.
5. Install new oil cooler in reverse order (I recommend applying some Gasket maker (Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Sealant) to the metal body surrounding the o-ring on the oil cooler and the metal body of the engine where it attaches. You can find the exact stuff I used here:
Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Sealant 3oz
6. DON'T FORGET: Refill your oil and engine coolant completely prior to turning your car back on.

  • If you decided not to use the stock metal hose clamps like me be sure to reattach your adjustable clamps to the coolant hoses once you're finished putting on the new oil cooler (get the type that you can wrap around the hose and tighten easily with the knob)
  • I also recommend unbolting the plastic shield under the car as this will afford you more room to work with.
 

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2013 Veloster Turbo, black with blue accents
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Hey, 2 questions as I'm in the middle of this... did you lock tight the cooler bolt? And did you follow the instruction on the black permatex where it said finger tighten and leave for an hour, then torque and wait 24? Just curious hows yours went and held up!
 

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No need for loc-tite. Use a proper O-ring as it is cheaper than gasket maker in most cases. If using gasket maker anyway just go ahead an tq to spec then allow drying time.
 

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I just got done doing this job and it solved my oil drips on the driveway. My turbo oil lines on my 13' seem good still which surprised me a bit but I'll take it.

I cleaned up everything, put it back together with the proper o-ring and new cooler from an ebay oil cooler purchase (seems genuine Hyundai, the box and part stamps seem legit). The fit was perfect if anyone is wondering about that route. It's ebay so buyer beware. Dealer wanted $250-300 for the cooler alone. Got this one for $60. The fact you can't buy the gasket by itself is wild.

I noticed four things that stood out to me on my replacement:

First, getting the coolant lines unclamped and off were a puzzle in of itself. My Corbin clamps came in handy, but it's a tight space and the clamps were obviously placed when the engine had less bolted up on it. Move around for different perspectives.

Second, My cooler bolt had a pretty good amount of a thread lock or loctite and after taking the bolt out I had to really clean those threads well as that "loctite" they used was kind of crumbly. I got quite a bit of hard granular garbage out of the threads. I'm glad I cleaned that up before reinstalling the bolt. At first I couldn't tell if Hyundai just cut the treads really shallow and rough or what. Turns out it was thread lock. My digital torque wrench said the original cooler bolt broke loose at approx. 32-35 lb-ft for what it's worth to anyone. The tightening specs are 36.8 ~ 41.2 lb-ft. The bolt coming loose from going crazy with filter tightening didn't seem to be my issue. The cooler body seems to bottom out on to the block creating a fixed compression on the gasket and not free float riding on the gasket. I could be wrong on that though.

Third, the old gasket was hard as a rock. I'm sure it's the issue 99% of the time, yet dealers are replacing entire cooler units semi-often to fix this. It's probably heat and oil pH that harden them up. I baby the oil but I bought the car used and the damage is done over time. Gaskets don't last forever.

Forth, corrosion was starting to creep into the polished area on the block mating surface where the gasket was not so tight. It wasn't too much or too bad of corrosion, but I decided to do a thin layer of permatex on the two sides of the new gasket to assist sealing against any surface imperfections after I cleaned the surface. I let mine cure over night before exposing the permatex to oil. Patience, Master Yoda said....

To capstone the OCD spill over I just posted, I went out and did a burn out while yelling Veloster Turbo a few times with the moon roof and windows open
 

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nice work! nice writeup!
 

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I just got done doing this job and it solved my oil drips on the driveway. My turbo oil lines on my 13' seem good still which surprised me a bit but I'll take it.

I cleaned up everything, put it back together with the proper o-ring and new cooler from an ebay oil cooler purchase (seems genuine Hyundai, the box and part stamps seem legit). The fit was perfect if anyone is wondering about that route. It's ebay so buyer beware. Dealer wanted $250-300 for the cooler alone. Got this one for $60. The fact you can't buy the gasket by itself is wild.

I noticed four things that stood out to me on my replacement:

First, getting the coolant lines unclamped and off were a puzzle in of itself. My Corbin clamps came in handy, but it's a tight space and the clamps were obviously placed when the engine had less bolted up on it. Move around for different perspectives.

Second, My cooler bolt had a pretty good amount of a thread lock or loctite and after taking the bolt out I had to really clean those threads well as that "loctite" they used was kind of crumbly. I got quite a bit of hard granular garbage out of the threads. I'm glad I cleaned that up before reinstalling the bolt. At first I couldn't tell if Hyundai just cut the treads really shallow and rough or what. Turns out it was thread lock. My digital torque wrench said the original cooler bolt broke loose at approx. 32-35 lb-ft for what it's worth to anyone. The tightening specs are 36.8 ~ 41.2 lb-ft. The bolt coming loose from going crazy with filter tightening didn't seem to be my issue. The cooler body seems to bottom out on to the block creating a fixed compression on the gasket and not free float riding on the gasket. I could be wrong on that though.

Third, the old gasket was hard as a rock. I'm sure it's the issue 99% of the time, yet dealers are replacing entire cooler units semi-often to fix this. It's probably heat and oil pH that harden them up. I baby the oil but I bought the car used and the damage is done over time. Gaskets don't last forever.

Forth, corrosion was starting to creep into the polished area on the block mating surface where the gasket was not so tight. It wasn't too much or too bad of corrosion, but I decided to do a thin layer of permatex on the two sides of the new gasket to assist sealing against any surface imperfections after I cleaned the surface. I let mine cure over night before exposing the permatex to oil. Patience, Master Yoda said....

To capstone the OCD spill over I just posted, I went out and did a burn out while yelling Veloster Turbo a few times with the moon roof and windows open
What size o- ring does it need?
 
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