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Trd what would you consider a logical PM (preventive maintenance)when swapping an engine or while engine is out of car ?? Throw out bearing ? car has 100mi on it porting and polishing head and should intake manifold gasket be changed if still in good condition it just seems silly to change something just cause a company says to one of those highprofit procedure that isn't needed . And heat shield on engine or no heat shield for stop and go heat shield may help but when car is completely cool before next start what good is a heat shield for engine? I have many questions and I like to assimilate ass much data as possible before I decide thanks for your input and your experience is appreciated and unrelated I am trying to hone my abilities of conversation and I'm guessing that your 28 years old or your a very articulate 42 year of age. Not that it matters in any way I just like to see if I'm correct
Have to base what needs to be addressed on goals after assessing what you have first. Many things can be done to add power, safety, or longevity but will be up to the owner if worth the time and $ to weight out the pro/con based on current condition. So that's not something I can give a straight forward answer on other than an engine with 100 miles should be fine unless it has a lot or corrosion or physical damaged somehow.

Re hot/cold, both can kill engines. Cold actually causes more engine damage but you mostly hear about hot killing them as this is usually due to a part failing causing it to get too hot. Keeping in a good range based on the specs of the parts is best. Heat shields are used in different areas of the car. Not exactly sure which you're referring to exactly?

I'm between the two ages and have been involved in competitive level motorsports for over 2 decades. I'm a red-neck born and raised in Central NC but top 1% in grade school and college. Quite the dangerous combo! Lol! ;-)
 

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Heat shield on top motor and any suggestions before I put new engine in?? flush new engine or something like that maybe take top end off and inspect cylinder and pistons replace headstuds with arp I've heard a lot about hyundai week headstuds
 

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The engine cover is not needed other than for sound deadening and aesthetics. It holding heat in actually kills the coils quicker on the engine.

A new engine should not need anything done unless it has something wrong with it. A used engine is another story and may be worth while doing more before installing.

If high mileage, older engine, or looking to mod for power and last the longest then replace the headgasket and swap in arp studs would be a good idea. Also flushing the engine and good cleaning or replacing other parts may be needed. Up to how things look after assessing it and the piece of mind you want with it.
 

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I will be getting used engine and plan on looking in all holes with a boroscope.i might even use this an excuse to buy a better resolution scope any how I haven't changed fuel line is it worth it to do and I'm going to get a new clutch release bearing any suggestions on a reputable company I have liked kdm as they seem to be honest and out to do good but I know I need to replace the crbearing
 

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And I have a question why are headgaskets so expensive I mean I still hear of headgaskets failing shouldn't we be past this bye now wouldn't a small lip and crevece or tongue and groove system solve this issues . Or does the coefficients the cause of high cost?
 

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If getting a used engine the get a 15-17 low mileage engine if you have a 13-17 VT. Get low mileage 19+ if you have a 19+ VT. Also be sure undamaged from a known running car. Doing this will ensure not much needed to be reliable.

Fuel line is worth doing on any 13-15 VT if going for any additional power. I actually require one before I do any tune that adds power. Some can get away with lower engine mount bushings and the oem fuel line be ok.

Clutch related parts go with Albert Hwang on FB for oem parts or kdm tuners for aftermarket. I can get either one but those guys have good prices.

Head gaskets are not expensive. Replacing them or reinforcement of the head to not have issues has a decent cost if engine is in the car but far less expensive while out of the car simply due to the labor time and difficulty. Ofcourse with the correct parts, maintenance, and tune in the car you'll have no issues with a headgasket either. Just to clarify, headgasket is not the issue but rather the oem TTY head bolts stretching from mediocre parts, maintenance, and tuning.
 

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Thanks for clarifying my ignorance on the head gaskets and I have a r spec model it says it has stiffer mounts but il have to verify it is solid metal besides a w inch bushing in the tip between frame the upper mount has much more play the little thing that make the biggest difference
 

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Your VT has a gnats ass higher spring rate than base VT but same lower engine mount.
 
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