Veloster Turbo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Trying to diagnose this...... I have some knowledge of cars and I do the work on my bolt on 2013 Camaro SS 1LE. My girlfriend bought a 2015 Veloster Turbo used back in 16 or 17 with about 20-30k on it. The car was and still is 100% stock and it currently has 113k on the odometer. Few days ago she told me that her car was not running right when she tried giving it gas. She said the CEL flashed and then stayed on but went away after a few miles. I told her about 30k ago to replace her spark plugs after her car was taking longer to crank, this happens intermittently. First thing I did was replaced all 4 plugs with Autolite XP5703 and gaped them all to .030. Took it for a drive and at about 30% throttle the car would break up and surge really bad. A CEL came on so I took it immediately to Advance Auto to get the code read..... P0303 Cylinder #3 misfire. To diagnose it further I replaced the ignition coil for cylinder #3 (2B110). Still no luck. I told her to drive the car to almost empty and fill up with shell 93 and throw some techron or lucas injector cleaner in it. About a day later I disconnected the battery because the car could hardly move without surging and breaking up. I did this in attempts to clear the CEL but didnt unplug it for enough time, the CEL stayed on but the car behaved much better now only breaking up with about 50% throttle. I tried every mode eco, normal, sport, same outcome. The car will rev out but when you give it over ~50% throttle it breaks up. When the car is in park or neutral it idles and revs fine with no breaking up or surging. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,955 Posts
autolite is a bad plug.

get NGK plugs gap to .028 heat range 7 (@E9C900A correct me if I am wrong) ... NGK SILZKR7B8E
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
autolite is a bad plug.

get NGK plugs gap to .028 heat range 7 (@E9C900A correct me if I am wrong) ... NGK SILZKR7B8E
From my reading on here you are correct with the part number and heat range for a 15+.

Autolite has to be better than the OEM plug that should have been replaced at 45k and again at 90k but weren't. All 4 plugs looked the same no excessive oil or fouling on the plug but the electrodes were missing the tips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,067 Posts
i would replace all coils to OEM
I would replace all plugs to NGK R2556G-9
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,955 Posts
i've run that NGK plug listed in my '14 for almost 2 plug changes now with no trouble. my VT is also stock like yours and the mileage is about the same.

TooGQ, I don't remember if we recommend the racing plug for stock cars...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
Replace all coils with new OEM coils. Replace all plugs with new OEM plugs for a 16-17 VT and gap to .028" or a touch less if keeping car stock. If looking to mod and tune the car go to HKS M45XL or NGK R2556G-9 plugs and gap the same. Running 93 all the time is highly advised. If this does not fix your issue then you could have the fuel line issues which that can be replaced by a good aftermarket line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I read a good bit about the fuel line issue. Is there any leaking or something that can be tested or inspected to determine if that's the issue? This literally happened out of nowhere. She drove the car earlier in the day, everything was all normal then the same day it threw a code.

EDIT: I guess it would be important to add that despite what I recommend, she's always filled up with 87 octane.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
Yes the fuel line issue can be seen if datalogged during the event. It will not always throw codes though due to the fuel line. Again 93 is recommended. Please do be sure plugs and gaps are correct as well as coils are good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Trying to diagnose this...... I have some knowledge of cars and I do the work on my bolt on 2013 Camaro SS 1LE. My girlfriend bought a 2015 Veloster Turbo used back in 16 or 17 with about 20-30k on it. The car was and still is 100% stock and it currently has 113k on the odometer. Few days ago she told me that her car was not running right when she tried giving it gas. She said the CEL flashed and then stayed on but went away after a few miles. I told her about 30k ago to replace her spark plugs after her car was taking longer to crank, this happens intermittently. First thing I did was replaced all 4 plugs with Autolite XP5703 and gaped them all to .030. Took it for a drive and at about 30% throttle the car would break up and surge really bad. A CEL came on so I took it immediately to Advance Auto to get the code read..... P0303 Cylinder #3 misfire. To diagnose it further I replaced the ignition coil for cylinder #3 (2B110). Still no luck. I told her to drive the car to almost empty and fill up with shell 93 and throw some techron or lucas injector cleaner in it. About a day later I disconnected the battery because the car could hardly move without surging and breaking up. I did this in attempts to clear the CEL but didnt unplug it for enough time, the CEL stayed on but the car behaved much better now only breaking up with about 50% throttle. I tried every mode eco, normal, sport, same outcome. The car will rev out but when you give it over ~50% throttle it breaks up. When the car is in park or neutral it idles and revs fine with no breaking up or surging. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
I had a 2013 VT auto. One night, i went racing and a couple of runs in, the car would no longer rev past 3k rpm while in drive. I pulled over, put it in park and it did rev all the way up to 6k rpm. Same in neutral. The cel was flashing when this happened but went away after a minute. Thankfully i was able to drive it home with no problems besides not being able to rev past the 3k rpm. I got home, hooked up my scan tool, and i got p0302. So i ordered new ngk plugs just to be safe and replaced coil #2. I figured out that the coil was the problem bc i swapped coil 1 and coil 2 and now the code changed to p0301. The car never gave me a problem after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I had a 2013 VT auto. One night, i went racing and a couple of runs in, the car would no longer rev past 3k rpm while in drive. I pulled over, put it in park and it did rev all the way up to 6k rpm. Same in neutral. The cel was flashing when this happened but went away after a minute. Thankfully i was able to drive it home with no problems besides not being able to rev past the 3k rpm. I got home, hooked up my scan tool, and i got p0302. So i ordered new ngk plugs just to be safe and replaced coil #2. I figured out that the coil was the problem bc i swapped coil 1 and coil 2 and now the code changed to p0301. The car never gave me a problem after that.
I replaced all the plugs and gapped them accordingly and coil #3, still have the problem.

I'm leaning towards it being a fueling issue. It now has P0304, P0303 and P300 and it's been like a week now. Only happens when throttle is over 50%. Car revs fine in park and neutral. Issue only happens when the car is moving and throttle is over 50%.

Looking into the sxth element max fuel kit. Replace the pump and fuel line
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
No need to throw $ at it unless it needs it. Proper plugs and gaps, good oem coils, then fuel line. Only do these in that order if needed.

Contact Albert Hwang on FB for 3 more OEM coils and a set of plugs for a 16+ VT and gap those to .028" or a touch tighter.

Get a scan tool and report back the misfires per cylinder for current and last 10 drive cycles avg. Also how repeatable is the issue? If consistent then it could easily be datalogged to find the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
No need to throw $ at it unless it needs it. Proper plugs and gaps, good oem coils, then fuel line. Only do these in that order if needed.

Contact Albert Hwang on FB for 3 more OEM coils and a set of plugs for a 16+ VT and gap those to .028" or a touch tighter.

Get a scan tool and report back the misfires per cylinder for current and last 10 drive cycles avg. Also how repeatable is the issue? If consistent then it could easily be datalogged to find the issue.
I was about to throw money at it. I'd rather listen to people who own this car and have been through this problem. The fuel line and everything was going to come out of my pocket and I was going to install it. She doesnt have money to spend on this car like that. I'm going to regap the plugs tomorrow.

I am curious tho, is autolite really that terrible of a plug? The autolite plugs she got are iridium plugs, heat range 7, which i found on this forum as an acceptable replacement. If coil 3 was bad, wouldnt replacing coil 3 fix the issue? Cylinders 1 and 2 still arnt misfiring. Cylinders 1, 2, 4 coils are original OEM Hyundai and the coil that was replaced is an OEM coil, brand new.

How good is the torque app for data logging? Can it do fuel pressure and all that?

As far as how repeatable it is..... you can repeat it 100% of the time. Any time your driving and you give it 50% throttle or so it does it. Today I was driving behind her car and could see black smoke coming out whenever it was missing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
The coils can be tested to see if bad or good with an ohmmeter and by moving cylinder to cylinder.

Priority is also that the plugs and gaps are good which they're not. Just because they're the OEM heat range and will thread into the car and iridium does not mean anything other than that. This is a plug that's know to have issues in the car. At minimum set the gaps tighter and check coils after that with the ohmmeter and by swapping them around.

Yes, torque pro app, android device, and obdlink LX obd2 reader is worth its weight in gold and what you need. Get misfires per cylinder though if you can as that may help resolve your issues.

Do read my posts so I do not need to type the same stuff out any more hahaha.

By the way, where are you located? Could be a chance a forum member near by could assist in helping you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The coils can be tested to see if bad or good with an ohmmeter and by moving cylinder to cylinder.

Priority is also that the plugs and gaps are good which they're not. Just because they're the OEM heat range and will thread into the car and iridium does not mean anything other than that. This is a plug that's know to have issues in the car. At minimum set the gaps tighter and check coils after that with the ohmmeter and by swapping them around.

Yes, torque pro app, android device, and obdlink LX obd2 reader is worth its weight in gold and what you need. Get misfires per cylinder though if you can as that may help resolve your issues.

Do read my posts so I do not need to type the same stuff out any more hahaha.

By the way, where are you located? Could be a chance a forum member near by could assist in helping you.
I promise you I've been reading your posts to their entirety. Nothing against you or anybody in this thread that's helped..... I just find it hard to believe that this car is that finicky and the brand of plug regardless of it being brand new or old as hell really affects the car this much. Also that .002 of a difference in gap really screws with the car this much. It really blows my mind that this car is that temperamental.

I'm located in Fort Myers FL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
Believe it from someone who has worked on, modded, and tuned many of these cars. You can choose not to take the suggestions but do not come back here after the engine is blown due to having improper/faulty plugs, gaps, coils, fuel line, etc after being told. If you do choose that route check out car-part.com or ask Albert Hwang on FB to see where you can get best price on an engine or engine parts.

Please do ask any questions if you need further help on this before spending $.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Believe it from someone who has worked on, modded, and tuned many of these cars. You can choose not to take the suggestions but do not come back here after the engine is blown due to having improper/faulty plugs, gaps, coils, fuel line, etc after being told. If you do choose that route check out car-part.com or ask Albert Hwang on FB to see where you can get best price on an engine or engine parts.

Please do ask any questions if you need further help on this before spending $.
Dont worry I'm taking the suggestions, that's exactly why I came here.

I unplugged the battery, I gaped the plugs at .028. I took coil 3 and put it on 1, took coil 4 and put it on 2. Plugs 1 and 2 looked good. 3 was pure white and 4 was so fouled with oil and gas. The porcelain was fine, no cracks. Switching the coils and regaping the plugs made it worse I think. Car sputters around 2,000rpm and hardly move under it's own power without missing. Still p0303 and p0304.

Going to order that reader on amazon and download the torque app.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
Did you clear the codes after switching the coils and remapping? Clear pictures of the plugs you could post? Plugs looking different could indicate issues with plugs, coils, or something per each cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Did you clear the codes after switching the coils and remapping? Clear pictures of the plugs you could post? Plugs looking different could indicate issues with plugs, coils, or something per each cylinder.
No I have nothing to clear the codes with. Every car I've worked on, unplugging the battery for a few hours always clears it. Apparently that doesnt work with these. Also ive tried clearing them with my aeroforce interceptor I have in my Camaro and that didnt work. Advance and autozone ect wont clear them. Just read.

I didnt take pictures of the plugs...... I probably should have. I'll try my best to explain....1 and 2 looked like a set of normal used plugs. Has some white on the tip. 3 was pure white, electrode, insulator, tip all white. No bubbling tho. Then cylinder 4 was wet and covered in oil and gas. All 4 plugs had some oil around the threading but plug 4 was like it never even fired. Just brown with oil. I'm thinking about throwing the OEM plugs back in. Those really didnt look horrible for 113k.

I guess when she test drove it after switching the coils she dogged it a tad and now it's missing at idle which it never did to start with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I just ordered that OBDlink lx that you recommended. I'm assuming this can read the misfires per cylinder. What is the fuel pressure supposed to be at for idle and wot? What parameter can I check for injectors? Voltage? Pulse? Duty cycle? Same with coils?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
Those plugs do not sound good but hoping for the best. Can you do a compression check across all cylinders?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top