[burntovel]

Is this what most of you guys are running now? Found a good deal on some Castrol Edge 5w-40 and have heard great things about it.

 

[WhiteBoy]

Any 5w 40 will work well as long as its synthetic. Just watch your change intervals..

Many run the Motul 8100 x-cess 5w40 and is safe upto 7500 change intervals with minimal break down.. Infact i could run mine to 10k before i see a change in the oil according to balckstone.

Many on here are running PUP which great success. As for Castrol ive heard good things about that oil, but i never personally used it/

 

[burntovel]

Thanks WB. I live in pohdunk east Texas and the pickings are slim and prefer to support local stores instead of order online. I plan on changing mine roughly every 6K miles so should be good.

 

[gsrdude]

Rotella T6 (Old faithful) every 3k works fine. Have run the M1 TDT 5w-40 as well theyre dam close in OCI's I've seen in various applications. GDI and non.

X said that maybe WhiteBoy had an issue with it foaming up. Which is a bit scary. But from his post that was on the track and there were other factors involved. Never Seen or heard of anyone post engine failures due to running T6 in their cars. Hell I know multiple folks who track that oil religiously with easily double the HP/TQ and no oil related issues. Ive also seen tear downs for builds that have run T6 and components came out of them pristine. Needless to say I don't track the VT and use a 3k OCI I dont ever see the motor letting go due to the oil.

But hell I'll bite and grab some Motul 8100 for the next change, might as well compare the 300v to the MT-85 while I'm at it. Amsoil and Redline also have 5w-40 options. I know you can get the Amsoil in what they call a Euro 5w-40 with a choice of low, mid, or high SAPS. I'd go Mid for a catted car.

 

[E9C900A]

Yay, another oil thread.

ENEOS 0W-20 (similar to PurePlus tech) or Red Line 30WT Race Oil (for superior flashpoint temperature (270°C) & NOACK value of 6) or CERMA EVO.

As long as anti-wear index is high and oil pressure is sufficiently high, higher flowing oil provides better cooling and more power due to less resistance.

Let the flames begin.

 

[Mr.MattyV]

Yay, another oil thread.

ENEOS 0W-20 (similar to PurePlus tech) or Red Line 30WT Race Oil (for superior flashpoint temperature (270°C) & NOACK value of 6) or CERMA EVO.

As long as anti-wear index is high and oil pressure is sufficiently high, higher flowing oil provides better cooling and more power due to less resistance.

Let the flames begin.

He is new, don't give him shit. You were new once and I remember how much you actually knew versus what you read about online to "learn"

 

[WhiteBoy]

Wait.. are you suggesting running 0w20 on a turbo car that the tolerances are set to use a 30 or 40??? Oil pressures with 40 are perfect, if try and run 20 you oil pressures will be way to low on this motor which could cause starvation issues and premature bearing failures.. the oil you are recommending maybe be great but only if the motor is built with tight tolerances which these are not!

 

[E9C900A]

He is new, don't give him shit. You were new once and I remember how much you actually knew versus what you read about online to "learn"

Funny how you used to act the same way I do with new members starting unnecessary threads...

Don't even start about learning. The vast majority of what anyone learns is either from reading or being taught by someone.

 

[Mr.MattyV]

I will admit that I can be a dick sometimes. Most of the time though I really want to help people. You gave a suggestion for oil to someone who has no idea what to use. If 0w-30 was a great oil, why do only a handful of manufacturers suggest it for certain models?

When it comes to learning, most people learn from someone else or by reading and doing themselves. Not by reading and then having someone else do it for them.

 

[E9C900A]

Wait.. are you suggesting running 0w20 on a turbo car that the tolerances are set to use a 30 or 40??? Oil pressures with 40 are perfect, if try and run 20 you oil pressures will be way to low on this motor which could cause starvation issues and premature bearing failures.. the oil you are recommending maybe be great but only if the motor is built with tight tolerances which these are not!

Here you go, from your new favorite oil site...

Now what?

I run 0W-20 in my 25-year old 5.7L SBC, which has way larger tolerances than the G4FJ. No issues and I run it hard. The key is boundary lubrication/protection.

 

[E9C900A]

I will admit that I can be a dick sometimes. Most of the time though I really want to help people. You gave a suggestion for oil to someone who has no idea what to use. If 0w-30 was a great oil, why do only a handful of manufacturers suggest it for certain models?

When it comes to learning, most people learn from someone else or by reading and doing themselves. Not by reading and then having someone else do it for them.

I did not offer my choices as a suggestion for the OP to run, but are merely my preferences.

What difference does it make if I have someone else do something for me, if you're referring to the work done on my car and the parts that I have had fabricated? I have a full-time job and what I do for the VT community is only as a hobby. I could very easily become trained to be a master mechanic, welder, CNC operator, CAD expert, but it wouldn't be logical for me to do this when I have a successful career already.

I appreciate the love/hate/resentment, but perhaps we can get along by your understanding that I am an analyst (previously a chemist/scientist) and not a tradesman and never will be. It would be a huge waste of time at this point. I support those who have the skills to get whatever is needed done. Unfortunately for me, some of those people I chose to collaborate with did not meet the high standards of excellence and timeliness I expect, which revealed itself over time. So be it. Life goes on.

 

[burntovel]

Appreciate the help. Only reason I started a thread was because I read that Hyundai originally used 5w-30 per the OM and then later added 5w-40. I bought a used Veloster and am doing my first oil change this weekend and wanted to put the best in her the first time. I've been on message boards for years and know how to use the search bjttons. Trust me, I've googled every oil iteration I could think of to try and get the correct info but was still a little unsure.

I have seen Motul Amsoil and PUP talked about extensively but I haven't heard many people around the VT forums mention the Castrol Edge specifically and wanted to hear y'all's thoughts. I've heard good things in general but didn't know if anyone had ran an oil analysis using the CE.

Cheers

 

[E9C900A]

Sorry for the divergence, burntovel. Castrol EDGE is ok, but you really should stick with a Group IV (PAO) or Group V (ester) full synthetic oil on a 2013. You should run 5W-30 or 5W-40 if the warranty is of concern. Just follow the severe service oil change interval in your owner's manual or the service manual.

 

[WhiteBoy]

My new favorite oil site?!? Lmao.. I posted that as it was a good read not to live by. Your response to that was that you read it years ago, to imply I was wasting everyone time as you already knew this. Far from my favorite oil resource. Unlike you I get my info from actually building cars, motors, etc.. I took a engine blue printing and rebuilding class in college. The shit I know is not found by reading google every night.

This reference you posted in no way says 0w20 is ok for a turbo GDI motor with clearances of .0025-.003. Do you know any builders that would use a 20 oil on a loose built turbo?? I don't.


Your were only fishing for an arguement by that post.. only to use that reference from that particular oil blog. Funny how you had that qued up out of that log Blog. Unless your just that smart and remembered that whole blog word for word.

So I'll ask you... anything else?

 

[WhiteBoy]

Comparing your 5.7l to a gdi 1.6.. is not even close to the same thing..

 

[E9C900A]

Sure, WB. You've been hanging too long in that caustic wasteland called Facebook where everyone wants to argue all day long and where everyone thinks everyone else has an ulterior motive. You are wrong about your interpretation of what I posted in your thread. I never said it was a waste of time. Stop putting words in my mouth.

I had nothing queued up. I remembered it was in there and found it.

I'm not sitting here with a plan on how I can pounce on WhiteBoy's posts and threads. I respect your knowledge in most areas but you are a bit close-minded in others.

Funny how the top-performing oils were those having a certain treatment added.

So I'm supposed to train to become a mechanic (without reading) in order to earn your respect and/or impress you?

Are you monitoring your oil pressure in your car right now?

I've got all night to continue this discussion...

 

[E9C900A]

Comparing your 5.7l to a gdi 1.6.. is not even close to the same thing..

Exactly my point. It should have looser tolerances, wouldn't you say? You don't know? I don't know. Educate me. You won't be able to without searching and reading though.

 

[Mr.MattyV]

Not adding to the argument, but a 350 would really run with just about anything in there lubing up the bearings.

 

[WhiteBoy]

Yes I am monitoring my pressures and oil temps.. I waited for first start up until I had my gauges wired.

Of course reading is a huge part of the learning curve but hands on is where the learning curve takes off.

As far as your knowledge I know your a smart man, but I don't agree with many things you say based on my real world experiences just as you think I'm closed minded in some topics. Which I'm assuming oil would be one of these topics.

Just like you this is a hobby to me, I also have a successful career which is why I give my designs and parts away to people are in this to make a living. I don't post here to make friends or enemies but because it's a hobby I enjoy. I remember a day when I didn't know a damn thing and forums were a great wealth of info.. they always had arguement long before Facebook.

 

[E9C900A]

We all come from different backgrounds and have different expectations because of the environments we've been exposed to. I cut my teeth in very technical forums where you were flamed for not searching, not reading and asking the same questions that have been asked dozens of times. One of those was actually a car forum for the Acura Integra. Even the mods would tell you to search or you'd get banned.

Perhaps we could meet face-to-face one day and have a beer or three (after racing our VTs at Streets of Willow or wherever). I'm not as much of a dickhead as I convey here.

As I said, I'm an analyst and a scientist at the core. I'd love to be able to do testing that shows how lubrication is much more complicated that what is commonly known.

At the end of the day, I'm just an enthusiast that leans more towards science and outside-the-box thinking instead of accepting the common norms.

Look at some SAE articles that go way back to the early 20th century. Fascinating stuff, even just looking at the previews. We haven't progressed as much as we should have as far as the internal combustion engine goes.

I'll tell you what I will do. If I have any problems with any engine I have due to running much thinner grades of oil than spec'd, I'll post somewhere here about it and attempt to determine the exact cause.

Until you're willing to try CERMA treatments and thinner grades of oil just as experimentation, willing to risk your engine, you're truly missing out on some things that can give you an advantage that can help reduce lap times. I'll even give you some for free. Put it in a beater car.