845 Down Pipe

4683 Views 31 Replies 14 Participants Last post by JBV, Aug 4, 2014

KoleSlaw

Discussion Starter · Aug 1, 2014

Hey Guys,

I'm pretty new to the mod thing so half the stuff will probably sound wrong so work with me here. I've got as 2013 VT A/T, with a Magnaflow catback and a Turbosocks CAI. I recently purchased an 845 Catless downpipe, and tried to install it with a friend of mine who knows far more about cars myself. We got the stock cat off fine, only to find that we needed to also remove the elbow(?) from the cat to the turbo itself. This is where we found that the two bolts contained rust, but tried to get the nuts of anyway. Long story short, the bolt snapped clear off and disappeared. We didn't want to go along with the install because if the 2nd bolt came off, I'd be riding around with nothing until we got it resolved. I guess what I need to know is what size that bolt is so I can purchase another one. ANy help is highly appreciated!!! :eagerness::eagerness::eagerness:

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

Gerid

· #2 · Aug 1, 2014

You definitely will have to soak those bolts in some form of penetrant for least an hour for any kind of easement getting them off lol! I would use PB Blaster or Wd-40 or the like. Pb Blaster is some great stuff, I've knocked ball joints across the room that were stuck with that stuff soaked in it. Far as the bolt size, i'm unsure of that. Hopefully someone can add to that for you so you can replace it. I would just call your local dealership and ask if they have any in stock and find out the thread pitch

Reactions: 1

TylerPeterson

· #3 · Aug 1, 2014

KoleSlaw said:
Hey Guys,

I'm pretty new to the mod thing so half the stuff will probably sound wrong so work with me here. I've got as 2013 VT A/T, with a Magnaflow catback and a Turbosocks CAI. I recently purchased an 845 Catless downpipe, and tried to install it with a friend of mine who knows far more about cars myself. We got the stock cat off fine, only to find that we needed to also remove the elbow(?) from the cat to the turbo itself. This is where we found that the two bolts contained rust, but tried to get the nuts of anyway. Long story short, the bolt snapped clear off and disappeared. We didn't want to go along with the install because if the 2nd bolt came off, I'd be riding around with nothing until we got it resolved. I guess what I need to know is what size that bolt is so I can purchase another one. ANy help is highly appreciated!!! :eagerness::eagerness::eagerness:

Would this be the bolt with spring your talking about?

swordfish

· #4 · Aug 1, 2014

TylerPeterson said:
Would this be the bolt with spring your talking about?

Nope. This will be the elbow straight into the turbine housing.

TylerPeterson

· #5 · Aug 1, 2014

swordfish said:
Nope. This will be the elbow straight into the turbine housing.

not this?

Auto part Automotive exhaust Diagram Transmission part Automotive engine part

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vt_guest123

· #6 · Aug 1, 2014

TylerPeterson said:
not this?
View attachment 34316

That is not even our exhaust system.

TylerPeterson

· #7 · Aug 1, 2014

TheRock said:
That is not even our exhaust system.

its the NA, but i thought it would give a general area.

vt_guest123

· #8 · Aug 1, 2014

TylerPeterson said:
its the NA, but i thought it would give a general area.

He is talking about the bolt that goes from the elbow to the turbo. Those are notorious for braking off. Thats why I bought a Pierce HFCDP. The extra couple HP was not worth the risk of the elbow bolts. lol

Reactions: 1

swordfish

· #9 · Aug 1, 2014

That part was able to be removed he said.

TylerPeterson

· #10 · Aug 1, 2014

TheRock said:
He is talking about the bolt that goes from the elbow to the turbo. Those are notorious for braking off. Thats why I bought a Pierce HFCDP. The extra couple HP was not worth the risk of the elbow bolts. lol

Wow, didn't know that there was a DP that was that high up. I have Pierces Catless so that's why i was confused.

vt_guest123

· #11 · Aug 1, 2014

KoleSlaw said:
Hey Guys,

I'm pretty new to the mod thing so half the stuff will probably sound wrong so work with me here. I've got as 2013 VT A/T, with a Magnaflow catback and a Turbosocks CAI. I recently purchased an 845 Catless downpipe, and tried to install it with a friend of mine who knows far more about cars myself. We got the stock cat off fine, only to find that we needed to also remove the elbow(?) from the cat to the turbo itself. This is where we found that the two bolts contained rust, but tried to get the nuts of anyway. Long story short, the bolt snapped clear off and disappeared. We didn't want to go along with the install because if the 2nd bolt came off, I'd be riding around with nothing until we got it resolved. I guess what I need to know is what size that bolt is so I can purchase another one. ANy help is highly appreciated!!! :eagerness::eagerness::eagerness:

By the way welcome to the forums.

Reactions: 1

vt_guest123

· #12 · Aug 1, 2014

TylerPeterson said:
Wow, didn't know that there was a DP that was that high up. I have Pierces Catless so that's why i was confused.

Technically the Pierce Pipes are Test Pipes.

A Down pipe goes from Turbo to exhaust.

The dyno sheets that got posted showed a 2-3hp difference so not a huge deal, but to some it is.

TylerPeterson

· #13 · Aug 1, 2014

TheRock said:
Technically the Pierce Pipes are Test Pipes.

A Down pipe goes from Turbo to exhaust.

The dyno sheets that got posted showed a 2-3hp difference so not a huge deal, but to some it is.

Gotcha, i would hate to do any higher then the test pipe lol.

KoleSlaw

Discussion Starter · #14 · Aug 1, 2014

thanks for the open arm welcome :smile:
i opted for the 845 dp because people on the forum seemed to like his stuff. i was unaware that it replaced both the stock dp and the elbow, but it does make it a full turbo back exhaust then if that sounds right? just not sure of the size of that bolt itself.

Ricky-D

· #15 · Aug 1, 2014

Is that not a stud that you're talking about?

***

KoleSlaw

Discussion Starter · #16 · Aug 1, 2014

i would imagine so. again, i apologize for my ignorance in what I'm talking about, but the actual stud that we were trying to screw the nut off of fell clear off.

Voodoo Idol

· #17 · Aug 1, 2014

Gerid said:
You definitely will have to soak those bolts in some form of penetrant for least an hour for any kind of easement getting them off lol! I would use PB Blaster or Wd-40 or the like. Pb Blaster is some great stuff, I've knocked ball joints across the room that were stuck with that stuff soaked in it. Far as the bolt size, i'm unsure of that. Hopefully someone can add to that for you so you can replace it. I would just call your local dealership and ask if they have any in stock and find out the thread pitch

WD40 is not really a penetrant, it's s lubricant and water displacer (hence the WD). PB Blaster is definitely the way to go.

hatos

· #18 · Aug 1, 2014

I am not sure this will help but here is the diagram for our exhaust and the link where you could see parts 2013 Hyundai Veloster Parts -

Auto part Axle part Automotive engine part Transmission part Transfer case part

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hatos

· #19 · Aug 1, 2014

Here is the diagram from the manifold down and the link if your referring to the elbow then i am assuming part #6 is what your looking for or I may be wrong 2013 Hyundai Veloster Parts -

Auto part Automotive engine part Line art Transmission part Automotive fuel system

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KoleSlaw

Discussion Starter · #20 · Aug 1, 2014

little tricky to tell from this diagram, but I'd like to say that you're more than likely correct. would that be where part #4 from diagram 1 meets part #3 in diagram 2?

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

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