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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a bit late as I purchased her early August. She has a manual transmission, 35% factory tint, Fusion paint & leather protection, Hyundai (blue) interior lighting kit and front park assist (to be fixed under warranty).

DSCF0003.jpg DSCF0004a.jpg

My initial focus is wheels, suspension and stereo upgrade.

Parts I have on hand are:
Turbosocks rigid collar kit (will fit this weekend);
Injen SRI (price was too good to pass up on!)

Arriving this week:
TSW Nurburgring 18 x 7.5, +47. I’ll be keeping the current tyres and replacing them when they wear out with 225 40. Scheduled to be fitted.

RF 3Sixty.3 signal processor;
RF Punch P1000X5;
RF P3SD2-8;
RF T3652-S;
Rears will be selected from RF, German Maestro or other suitable shallow mount speakers based on what is in stock.

On order:
NGM Betamax V2 coil overs (Import Shark group buy)
Additional suspension mods predicated on fit with NGM

Plans pre-summer:
LED interior light upgrade (Stage 2 blue map and hatch, stage 2 white vanity lights & stage 1 number plate lights).
Better cooling
TBE

Down the track:
Bigger turbo

Just a few thanks to Nate (Turbosocks) for his prompt service and willingness to share knowledge and to Mitch Crosher (TSW Australia) wheels delivered ex USA in 4 days!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very nice. The only thing I see you need is are 10mm spacers for your wheels.

That and FMIC, DP, catback, and a tune :D
Thanks for your feedback. If I can't get a turbo back exhaust locally, I'll be in touch with some of the supporting vendors to help me out. Re the FMIC, sent an email to the venerable turbosocks and am eagerly waiting his reply :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Wheels on the car today. I must say, very impressed with the quality. Each wheel weighed spot on 8kg (17.64 lb.). The only issue that I had is with the TPMS. Couldn't get the valves out of the standard wheels. Tried Hyundai, GM, Chrysler - none in stock. Tried aftermarket and nobody I called makes them for the V. Went back to Hyundai and ordered them at $A38 ea. Be here in four days :yawn:
TSW01a.jpg TSW02.jpg TSW03.jpg TSW04.jpg TSW05a.jpg

I know it needs to be dropped - just waiting on the NGM's to be shipped from Import Shark.

Also installed the Injen SRI. Piece of cake to install. The only thing that pissed me off was that damn vibra mount. No matter what I did, I was not able to obtain clearance between bottom of intake and the high pressure fuel line (why Injen doesn't supply a big enough vibra mount has got me stumped :furious:) Any way, went down to the local auto store and bought some rubber bushes and an M6 bolt (see pic 2). I think it looks neater.
SRI1.jpg SRI2.jpg

Took it for a spin and scared the neighbour's dog. This is much louder than what I expected but makes a lovely woosh spit noise on up changes. Let's hope the rozzers find it as appealing as I do:haha:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks sixspeed. Rozzers - police, 5-0, po po and a few other terms not suitable for a family friendly forum :saint:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh shucks...thanks swordfish. But she needs to be dropped!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Finally installed the rigid collars supplied from Turbosocks. I don't know if it is the placebo effect but there is this piece of road that provided some feedback through the steering wheel and now with the collars on, it's gone.

Also installed the stereo, once I recover form this PITA, will post more details and pictures (excluding the ones where I am curled up into a ball and bashing my head against the wall).
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The upgrade of my audio system was completed last week. The whole aim was to keep it as stealthy as possible. Due to this requirement some compromises were made (explained further below).

I decided to go with Rockford Fosgate for all of my equipment. Due to a corrupted memory card, I lost most of the photos so have attached the ones I saved.

During the install, I learned a number of things:
• Be careful with the clips, they break easily (no big deal);
• Be careful with the trim piece surrounding the rear seat locking mechanism, very fragile and 4 week wait for the replacement;
• The grounding wire is fairly flimsy and overheats so add an additional ground;
• The rear fascia panel, where the number plate mounts, is attached via 4 screws. Use sound deadening if you plan on any decent base (below 40Hz).

FRONT SPEAKERS
I used the RF T3652-S. The mounting bracket needed some work but boy do they kick some serious butt! The mid-bass is absolutely phenomenal (as an aside, following the factory wiring diagram resulted in my speakers being out of phase). The only issue I have is staging. Is this due to placing the tweeter in the factory location? Is it because the speakers haven’t been broken in? This is a possibility. I’ll be mucking around with them and see what happens.

Rear Speakers
I selected the RF P1675-S (nothing special here) as I was only interested in rear fill but they still do a very good job

Subwoofer
The RF P3SD4-8 was given the task of supplying base. In the right enclosure (mdf or glass) it performs above its weight. I had it installed in the factory enclosure with heaps of Focal insulation (which I used throughout the car). Unfortunately, if I try to run this below 40Hz, the vibration sounds like a flatulent fatty following a fast food feast. If you decide to go this route, invest in a custom made box otherwise you will be doing your sub a disservice. Down the track I will be replacing this with either a 10” or a 12” subject to how far the custom box encroaches into the hatch.

Amplifier
Driving everything is the P1000X5. This has been placed under the passenger seat. In the past, I would have avoided a five channel amp due to lack of power on the sub channel and piss poor flexibility of the cross overs. This amp has proved me wrong and IMO, it is one of the best sounding amps in its class.

Summing Device
IMO this is a must have. If you are keeping the factory head unit / amp combo get one! I used the ThreeSixty.3 placed near the factory amp. The control module was placed under the factory USB pod

Now onto the next lot of mods – internal LEDs, coil overs, cooling (crap, it never ends)
Stereo1.jpg
Stereo2.JPG Stereo3.jpg Stereo4.jpg
 

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Nice Rims!! I am also in Melbourne. South Eastern Suburbs though. Never seen a VT with your wheels yet. Good choice! Those plastic sheets on inside the door looks fancy! Mine are just plain white.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice Rims!! I am also in Melbourne. South Eastern Suburbs though. Never seen a VT with your wheels yet. Good choice! Those plastic sheets on inside the door looks fancy! Mine are just plain white.
Thanks for the compliment. Those sheets are sound deadening, a must have when you upgrade your sound system. You might consider joining veloster.org, one of the guys is trying to organise a get together.
 

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Right now I am admiring your system build. did you do the install yourself?

I am planning on doing the same exact thing. New speakers, new sub, amps, some kind of loc per say, sound deadening. But just different brands and equipment.

Why did you go with P3SD4-8 rather than separate sub/box? to keep it stealthy? with a P1000X5 you are basically getting 200w to the 4ohm sub. If you were to add a sub with its own enclosure and get a dvc 2ohm which wired in a certain way can bring it to 1 ohm and the P1000X5 can give it 500 watts. now that right there sounds like a plan lol doesnt even have to be a big box or a big sub either.

I wish you had all the pics. stupid computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I started it but got my friend to run the wiring.

I chose the P3SD4-8 because (in the right enclosure) it puts some 10" to shame, keep it stealthy plus I still need the space in the hatch. Based on the volume of the side panel (factory s/w enclosure ~.25 cu. ft.), I could have a glass box built to house a 10" or a 12" and extend this into the boot. This will have to wait for the moment. My recommendation is, have a custom box built - your sub will thank you for it and you will be happier.
 

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OH yeah I forgot you said you would use the P3SD4-8 in another box later on, correct?

this is the box I am going to have
Screenshot_2013-06-01-20-49-08.jpg
Custom built fourth order for a certain 15" :D Toby Outlaw Slim. Also, it will have it's own dedicated amp.

I absolutely LOVE bass. that box will be BANGING in the hatch. But it will fill up a lot of the trunk space and I know you are looking for a more conservative enclosure. with your installed amp, and with that P3SD4-8, in the right enclosure(even a stealth type enclosure if the box is built to the right specs) I think you will be more than content with the outcome. I don't think the factory enclosure does it justice.


Like you, I was never turned on by a 5 channel amp for your same reason. Though, If all I wanted was interior speakers and a small sub like your build, I would really consider getting one. And now that you are impressed by it, I would feel more comfortable with one if I ever wanted a small, simple, yet effective system.

Also you are brave trying to tackle a job like that! I done system installs before. I do my. never had it taking anywhere. But for this build I will be taking it somewhere to get done. this build will just be a little too much for me. If someone just ran the wires for me, I can do the rest LOL that is the only hard part. OH and taking off the door panels. I noticed you said something about that too.

wish you had more pics :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Hey MyDiana, I should have had a box built for the P3. When I get around to it, I will have a box made by someone who knows what they are doing - I'm hopeless with fibreglass :serious:

That is one serious box! is the box about 2.7 cu. ft? How big is the vented enclosure 4"x10"? Don't forget to trim the valance panel.

If you can be bothered, here is the link to speaker removal Speaker Removal

Fortunately I had friends to help. With hindsight, I should have got somebody to do it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ordered my LEDs from Turbosocks on 28 Aug. These departed the USPS sorting facility on 29 Aug. I don’t know what USPS / AUS Post were doing, but they didn’t arrive here until 23 Sep.

Purchased stage 2 blue map and hatch lights, white stage 2 vanity lights and white stage 1 licence plate lights. The install for the map and vanity lights was straight forward. I do suggest that you use a trim removal tool or cover your screwdriver with a cloth / electrical tape as the plastic around the vanity lights is very soft.

With the licence plate lights, I had to realign the contacts so that they would work. As far as the hatch light was concerned, removing the black cover took some time – it is very tight. To enable refitting of the cover, I angled the bulb so that it faces towards the centre of the hatch.
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I had another surprise package waiting for me on the 23.
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Picture of the overweight OEM system:
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Picture of the Jun rear section which is very lightweight:
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Sub section installed:
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Rear Section installed:
20130925_130508.jpg

This was installed in 15 minutes. The funny thing is it took us longer to unpack everything!

I'm scheduled to have the NGMs fitted Friday. Whilst I'm waiting for some other parts, might try my hand at vinyl wrapping
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
NGMs INSTALLED - FINALLY \0/

I had the NGM Betamax V2 coil overs delivered on the 10th of Sep.
NGMPack.jpg

After reading the issues that some of you were having, I was so relieved that my delivery was ok.

Due to work commitments and other issues, was not able to have them installed until 27th Sep. I’m running 2◦ -ve camber. Settings on the front are 7 and the rears are 9.

NGMA.jpg NGMB.jpg

As stated in previous posts, I will be getting 225 tyres when these need to be replaced. I was thinking that I might go with a 45 profile tyre to fill out the arches and provide some more comfort – we’’ll see what happens between now and then.

I’ve noticed some tension on the OEM sway bar so I will be ordering an adjustable front sway bar and sway bar link assembly. In relation to the rear locking rings, might have to resort to the old drift punch and mallet routine and get a couple more turns out of the locking ring.

As we can’t fit any of the rear sway bars (Whiteline, PMS) will be visiting my old friends from Centreline Suspension and look at playing with spring rates or any other trickery that they may have up their sleeve.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Had some more dyno runs on 13/11. Ran before installing the Tork Me pipe as well as after. Runs were in 3rd gear, ambient was 15.5C. Graphs show: the Tork Me pipe provided an extra 2.1 whp and 5.5 wtq; stock IC is not the most efficient and our cars run too rich.
 
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