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Since I thought it'd be helpful for this kind of thread, here it is. There wasn't anything like this elsewhere on these forums.

For good health of your vehicle, especially people who have done performance modifications, I recommend these maintenance routine check-ups to prevent any major damage to occur in the future. I hope this thread helps many people out and for those who want to contribute to this list, feel free to add to this post and I will update accordingly.

Remember, this is not a must follow along. I understand people like to take it at different intervals, some more frequent than others. This is my opinion to a healthy car.

Regular Maintenance Schedule in KM as of 2012 Pricing. (Use Google to convert to miles)


Need to replace the Cabin Filter?
-OEM Hyundai Cabin Filter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKRQ7O/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=viglink21507-20
-K&N Cabin Filter http://www.knfilters.com/mobile/mProduct.aspx?prod=VF2007

I will start off by providing part numbers to certain items that are switched out due to modifications or simple check-ups.

Part Numbers:

1. Oil Filters
  • OEM: 26300-35503 (Recommended)
  • Fram: XG9688, TG9688 & PH9688
  • Purolator: L14459, PL14459
  • K&N: HP1004
  • Wix: 51334
2. Spark Plugs (Hyundai recommend gap: .028" - .031" || .029 is shown as the starting value of the gap range)
  • NGK SILZKR6D8E (Heat Range 6)
  • Autolite XP5703 (Heat Range 7)
  • NGK ILKR8E6 1422 (Heat Range 8)
  • Brisk Silver Racing QR12LS (Heat Range 8)
  • HKS M40XL (Heat Range 8)
  • HKS M45XL (Heat Range 9)
3. Valve Stems
  • Rubber snap-in valve stems for TPMS - vs950
4. TPMS Info
  • OE Sensor Part Number: 52933-2V000
  • FCC ID Number: MRXFS5MAF4
5. Positive Crank Ventilation (PCV)
  • OEM: FRAM FV266
  • Microguard: PCV266
  • Purolator: PV1021
6. O2 Sensors (Shared by NAV and VT OR Shared by Sonata and VT)
  • Primary O2 Sensor: 39210-2B250 OR 39210-2B210
  • Secondary O2 Sensor: 39210-2B270 OR 39210-2B220
7. Air Filters
  • Engine Air Filter: 28113-1R100
  • Engine Air Filter - K&N drop-in: 33-2472
  • Air Cabin Filter: FRAM CF10709
8. Gaskets
Maintenance:
Every 5-10k miles
  • Rotate Tires
  • Oil Filter and Oil change
  • Inspect intercooler in/out hose and air intake hose.
Every 15-20k miles
  • Replace PCV
  • Replace Spark Plugs
  • Inspect brakes calipers, rotors, lines.
  • Inspect Battery Condition
  • Inspect cabin air filter (Glove box)
Every 30-60k miles
  • Inspect Exhaust and DP clamps/connections
  • Inspect drive belts (Think about replacing them if they make any noise and check them frequently after 60k miles)
  • Change Fuel Filter (60k)
  • Inspect Fuel lines
  • Replace Automatic Transaxle Fluid (60k)
  • Replace Manual Transaxle Fluid (60k)
*I would highly recommend the 60k things to be done by 45-50k. It won't hurt.

Some Things to Note:

  1. Depending on your road conditions, you might want to replace your drive shaft and boots. For instance, if you are in a muddy, unpaved, graveled, or heavily salted area. Inspect every 5-7.5k miles and look to change them every 15k or less depending on how severe the road conditions are.
  2. For the people who do not have an intake, SRI or CAI, you should replace your air cleaner filter frequently, at every oil change.
  3. Wear items such as brake pads and clutches should be done by sound/feel.
  4. Generally, brake pads are hard to give a number, but range between 20k-60k depending on usage. I recommend you look up how to inspect your brakes (when you do a tire rotation), and see how much is left. I highly recommend you replace them when they are around 1/4” left, but of course you can get them to 3/32” and still pass inspection. Your call. And while we are on this topic, when you brake and you feel a vibration, it is because your rotors are bent.
  5. Clutches are also difficult to give a number, but with the way we need to release our clutch in 1st to get a smooth start, I would say at 50k it would start to give. Yes, even without a tune and considering that this is a sporty car, the abuse is likely. Some people may get to 100k, good for you—this isn’t a dick measuring contest. A good way to test it is to put your parking brake on and put your car is 5th or so and let go of the clutch slowly. If your car runs, then you definitely know it’s slipping. You should actually feel the clutch slipping when you push the car hard as well. If it gets to the point where your car can idle in 5th gear engaged, that clutch is long gone.

Here is a guide of all lubricants and oils to be put in our car, straight out of the manual.
NOTE: :
the real life oil capacity of around 4 -4.2 quarts vice the 4.8 noted in the manual above.
Screen Shot 2014-02-12 at 3.51.06 PM.png Screen Shot 2014-02-12 at 3.51.22 PM.png

General info about alignment for our car.
Screen Shot 2014-02-12 at 4.25.41 PM.png
 

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Really replace plugs at 15K?! Does Hyundai use cheap plugs or is this just being over cautious?

BTW Nice Thread! Very helpful...Now I don't have to pull my owners manula out every other month :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Really replace plugs at 15K?! Does Hyundai use cheap plugs or is this just being over cautious?
You can replace them at 50-60k if you want. I want my car trucking along whenever I want it to, so I will replace mine every 20k. I replaced my old plugs every 30k on my older car.

Also, if you see anything off, you can tell me and I'll see to it that I fix it. I just want to make a public thread that can be used to help everyone out when they need part numbers or need to find out what they need to check.
 

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You are a bit over cautious. I would refer to the owner's manual. Spark plugs and air filters can go a lot longer than you're recommending. Folks reading this thread should also check their manuals and then make a decision as to how cautious they want to be.
 

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You are a bit over cautious. I would refer to the owner's manual. Spark plugs and air filters can go a lot longer than you're recommending. Folks reading this thread should also check their manuals and then make a decision as to how cautious they want to be.
After checking my plugs at 8000 miles there is no way in hell I will keep them in there to factory recommendations.

Just because they say things last that long doesn't mean you shouldn't be checking them frequently and replacing early due to excessive wear.
 

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Whatever I say, you're going to keep having the last word. So you win. OK.
Just offering a counterpoint your argument and how I go about maintenance. Was in no means a competition of ideas. Sorry if you felt I was attempting to one up you as that was not what I was doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You might want to add a note about the real life oil capacity of around 4 -4.2 quarts vice the 4.8 noted in the manual above. :smile:
Thanks. I will add your input.

---

When making this thread, I knew there would be a lot of disagreement on when certain things should be changed. I understand that there can be disagreement on my numbers and it is in no way an ultimatum, but a guide to what I do to my car. It's your choice on when you want to change it--i would inspect your own vehicle to see whether or not it needs changing. It really does vary depending on your driving style, the roads you're on, and how your car reacts to the environment (in general).
 

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Good thread idea!

Stock spark plug is NGK SILZKR6D8E. Might want to add gap range of .029" - .031".

Stock engine air filter # is 28113-1R100; K&N drop in #33-2472
 

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Good source of information. Now, can we remove the ultra white pic and put in a Boston Red? Those guys don't need their ego's boosted even more. :tongue:
 

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Microguard PCV Valve part number PCV266 fits. I verified it myself yesterday (but putting one on my car).

Also, I think it may be a good idea to start collecting information on ECU's.

I have a "late" 2013 (Factory Hood Struts, not prop rod) base VT MT, manufactured for the US domestic market.
My ECU P/N is 39118-2BBJ0
 
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