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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, as some you know the wife and I have had our Young Gun VT on order for a few months andFriday was the lucky day of delivery. All I can say is AWESOME. the wife had the lucky pleasure of having the car for the first half the day after picking it up at about 11:00am and I didnt get hold of it til after 5:30. so far racked up just shy of 300km and car is cracking along nicely. for all those that have one you know what I mean when I say it just seems to be getting better and those that are waiting believe us it is so so worth the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Bender, wont be too long for you mate so you will know exactly what I am talking about. Day 3 and the only complaint I have is I dont get enough time to drive it lol
 

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You haven't seen its full potential yet!

Mine was a tad dodgy at first and made occasional funny smells. The turbo was clearly limited for the first 1,000 or so miles.

It still always brings a smile to my face when I walk up to it and the roll-on power is never going to get old.
 

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You need to have a few thousand kilometers up before they begin to perform. Mine has gained from a few longer drives and was running much better after the round trip to Sydney. Despite propaganda to the contrary all engines require bedding-in, which is why it's a good idea to change oil early and get rid of metal from this initial wearing-in phase. My motorcycle had a scheduled first service and oil / filter change at 800km and I did another 3,000km later.
 

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sooooooooooooooooooooooo freakin' jealous the mackies - ENJOY you lucky thing! I know it'll be worth the wait but it is torturous nonetheless!! ;-) I'm going to want time off work when I get it just so I can drive it everywhere & not stop!!
 

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I just put 'JJ' in for her 1500k service - as CBR suggested, to get the metal flakes out of the oil etc. My partner has had to drop 'JJ' to the dealer and I asked her to photograph the odometer for me ..... if there's one extra K on the clock when I pick it up this arvo, I might actually stab somebody hahahahahaha.

Yeah, call me paranoid but I really don't need some 16yo apprentice 'taking it for a strap' and treating it like he treats his own car - 'getting capability confused with ambition'. Have I gone too far ??
 

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The 1,500kim service is just an inspection of belt tension and hoses and doesn't include an oil change, unlike my Triumph motorcycle which had an oil change scheduled. I haven't had my 1,500km service yet but it's booked for the week after next.

I did the oil change myself and it's a half hour job with a trolley jack, a pair of axle stands, a 10mm socket and long extension to get to the plastic guard holding bolts, a 17mm socket for the drain plug and a cup-type oil filter wrench (it would be difficult to remove the filter with a strap). The filter is low between the engine and the radiator and hangs vertically. It's easy although both the sump bolt and the oil filter were well-tight. Car now runs Motul 8100 5W40 and it takes 4.5 litres. Parts needed are an oil filter and a crush washer.
 

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Hi crb, what oil filter did you use?. A generic or genuine?.
 

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Hi guys, This is my first post on any Forum so I hope I doing it correctly. As you are talking about oil and oil changes I thought you might be interested in this reply I received from Hyundai Customer Care, Australia on 4 september in response to an enquiry on what oil they recommend for the VT. It is lengthy and I do not know whether it will all fit in this space but here goes.

"Thank you for contacting Hyundai Customer Care. We are advised that the factory fill oil is a Shell product which is not generally available over the counter. Unlike the usual service increments for Hyundai vehicles, where the maximum distance or time between schedules is 15,000km or 12 months, (whichever comes first) the Veloster's Turbo T-GDI engine requires scheduling as follows:

First Interval: 1 month or 1,500kms (whichever comes first).
Every Interval thereafter: 6 momths or 7,500kms (whichever comes first.)

Service intervals above are the minimum servicing requirements for this engine.

Additionally, with every service interval, it is mandatory to drain and replace the engine oil and filter.

With the T-GDI engine being a turbocharged engine, engine oil used on this must meet specification of:-

Specification: ACEA A5. Viscosity 5w-30, 5w-40.

This oil specification is common in Europe and formulated to improve fuel economy and emissions. Australia is now becoming better equipped and it is important that the oil used is formulated to meet this specification and not 'claimed' to meet it. There are several oil suppliers which meet the above specification and these oils are generally full stynthetic. Some brands which currently meet this specification include:

Castrol Magnatec Professional 5w-30 ACEA A5.
Castrol Edge Professional 0w-30 ACEA A5.
Fuchs Titan Supersyn 5w-30 ACEA A5.
Fuchs Titan GTI pro C2 5w-30 ACEA A5.
Caltex Havoline Fully Synthetic 5w-30 ACEA A5.

Shell Australia will soon release to suit. (On enquiring with my local Shell rep. About March 2013.)

Once again, Thank you for contaction Hyundai Customer Care and we hope the supplied information is of benefit to you."

I hope this information has been of some assistance. I have not seen it anywhere else on the Forum and thought I would put it out there. As the Australian VT comes with fixed price servicing and given this oil is going to be expensive in Aus. I think that when my VT finally arrives I will look into getting the dealer to do it. At $129 for oil, oil filter and labour maybe good deal.

Regards

Gary
 

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Thanks for that SR.
I'm not really knowledgable when it comes to cars and this will be my first Turbo.
Whats the differences/ benefits from 5w-30 and 40?

What is the customer care details, cos I may be contacting them if I don't get my VIN number soon.

Cheers
 

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Hi Bender,

There is not a lot of difference between 5w-30 and 5w-40. The 5w-40 operates in a higher temp. range. Depends on where you live. I ran 10w-40 in my I30 Turbo Diesel and I run 5w-30 in our Turbo Diesel Santa Fe because it has a particulate filter and requires it. As Hyundai recommends either, it is your choice. The most important Specification here is the ACEA A5. I am finding it very hard to get in Aus. If you are going to change your own oil I think the ACEA A5 spect. will out weigh the Viscosity choice. It is interesting to note in Hyundai's reply they seem to recommend and oil change at 1,500kms.

If you go onto Hyundai Australia's website and look under Contact Us you can either send an email to Customer Care or telephone them. I have mixed success with them over the years. Sometime they can help sometimes they can not. But they try.

Regards
 

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Hey there, SRNSW. Yep, fresh back from picking up 'JJ' after the 1500k service. They changed the oil - seemed like a smart idea too considering the idiot salesman told me 15k service intervals. Perhaps he was used to the basic Veloster, which actually does have the 15k servicing intervals. Anyways, all is good with the world again.
 

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Interesting they changed the oil and I must make sure they DON'T change the oil on my car the week after next. The 5W is the viscosity index at 40 degrees and the 30 or 40 is the viscosity index at 100 degrees (multigrade oils). My personal belief is that 30 weight is too thin for Australia and 40 weight is better (my air-cooled motorcycle is recommended to run 15W50 - where 50 is thicker at extreme high temperatures).

ACEA A1 is a standard for low friction / low viscosity (B1 is the equivalent for diesel engines).

ACEA A3 is a standard for extended drain intervals and this is a combination of the oil's ability to absorb combustion by-products as well as anti-shear (the breakdown of multigrade oil to single, thinner grade over time). Shear can reduce 5W30 to 5W5 which isn't good. (B3 is the equivalent for diesel engines).

ACEA A5 is a combination of A1 and A3 - that is low friction, low viscosity, extended drain. You will not and never will find a 40 weight oil in the A5 category. 40 weight is thicker, therefore it won't meet stringent low friction requirements.

Personally I think a 5W30 is going to turn into water at high operating temperatures, and a turbocharged engine is guaranteed to produce high operating temperatures in warm to hot weather. This is why I have filled my car with 0W40 ACEA A3 oil. So I have extended drain but not low friction. 5W30 is okay for the US, Europe and certainly for Korea, which has a long winter and a short but not hot summer.

My motorcycle as I mentioned above is air cooled and runs oil temperatures of around 100 degrees in warmer weather, and could run up to 120 degrees, and that's why a 50 weight oil is recommended. The reason for the 15W is that something like a 5W50 would need a lot of viscosity modifiers to reach 50 weight at 100 degrees, and an oil of this type would be prone to shearing (especially in a motorcycle where the engine oil lubricates the clutch and gearbox). So the motorcycle has a relatively thick oil when cold (15 weight) and it's down to me to treat it gently until the oil warms (about 10 minutes normal riding).

I would expect a Veloster turbo to run oil temperatures of 90 degrees or more on the open road in hotter weather.

Although Hyundai quoted Castrol Edge 0W30 as being ACEA A5 it doesn't fall within their recommended viscosity range (5W30 or 5W40). There is a risk of engine damage if this oil is used. So the range of A5 oils is quite small and it would be hard to buy most of those products.
 
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