Veloster Turbo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 VT 6 speed manual with about 64000 miles on it. I have had it for a little over a year now and I am the third (maybe fourth) owner.

I didn't realize it when I bought it (first manual, second car) but it has issues shifting, especially at high rpm. This might be a long post, but I am trying to provide as much info as possible.

I finally brought it to a shop, they said it needs a new tranny. $2500 dollars. I took it to another shop and they said same thing but dude was kinda shady. I had a fairly trustworthy independent mechanic that told me a while back he thought it was most likely the clutch, but said to wait until it really went out. Anyways, the first place I recently brought it to changed the fluid twice and it didn't really help at all. The old fluid was fairly dark and had tiny, fine, glittery metal particles in it, I had changed it once myself within the last year.

So, I am not convinced its the tranny, but I simply don't know. Here's why I am not convinced.

Before I just got the fluid changed, it seemed to only be really bad from first to second, to third, sometimes to fourth. Again, mostly at high rpm under high load. The reason I don't know if it's the clutch system or the tranny is because of a few reasons.

For one, I DON'T think the clutch is slipping. The car accelerates fine, and if I am on level ground not moving, put it in first and rev it until redline, the car does not move at all. However, when I am driving normally, I noticed that if I push the clutch pedal all the way in, the RPMs don't move at all. They only slightly go down exactly with the car as it engine brakes. I am currently under the impression that even if the car is in gear, when pushing the clutch all the way down, and off the throttle completely, the rps should still die down to rpm. Again, mine doesn't move at all.

HOWEVER, if I clutch in, hold it for even a few seconds rpms don't move. As soon as I pull it into neutral, rpms die down how they normally should. So to me, this means that there is still some load being transferred from engine into tranny, even with clutch all the way in. I know this would make the synchros work harder than they should, which could make things even worse.

Another weird thing is that when going from first to second, even if I shift at around 3000 rpm, not under high load, the shifter just seems like it doesn't want to let me even shift out of first gear. I can clutch in for even two or three seconds and I pull it from first to second, it gets stuck for a moment coming out of first, and again gets stuck and is very notchy going into second.

After the recent fluid change, it has grinded once or twice while shifting into reverse from standstill. I have had it completely lock me out of going into fourth after a redline pull in third. It has literally locked me out of fourth like it doesn't even exist for a solid ten seconds, the whole time i am sitting in neutral, double clutching, rpm all the way back down to like 1500 and then eventually when I blip the throttle it will very reluctantly go into fourth but be very notchy. Also, I noticed that it seems to be notchy and bad for all gears, but sometimes in fourth and up, it will fall right out of gear and not really have an issue going into the next gear.

I also just bled the clutch and it didn't help really at all.

SO my question is do any of you think that I have some sort of clutch issue or is it just the synchros/tranny? Could it be both at this point? I know this post is extremely long but there are a lot of details to get the whole story.

TL;DR: My car shifts really notchy, and sometimes grinds and completely locks me out of up shifting when shifting at high rpm. Just had fluid changed twice to flush everything out, also bled the clutch and it didn't help. Grinded a couple times going into reverse from standstill after fluid change. Car is extremely notchy/hard to shift through all gears, even up into 5th gear. Double clutching doesn't really make a noticeable difference anymore. Even when driving normally, I have to basically force it OUT of 1st when shifting into 2nd. However, while driving I can clutch in all the way while car is still in gear and the rpms don't drop at all, they just behave as if I were engine braking...UNTIL I pull it into neutral (with clutch still all the way in) THEN the rpms fall how they normally should. Clutch is probably not slipping though because acceleration is fine and I can rev to redline on flat ground in 1st gear with clutch in and car doesn't move at all. So do you think I have clutch issue, synchro/tranny issue, or both?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,568 Posts
Why are you worried about asking what's wrong? Just get it fixed by a trusted shop. If you need OEM parts ask albert Hwang on FB or search car-part.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Because I don't want to spend $2500 on a new tranny if the problem is really being caused by the clutch. And if it is the clutch, then it's cheaper to fix and eventually it would kill the new tranny if not also fixed.
 

·
Registered
2015 RB Accent-not so stock 🤫
Joined
·
357 Posts
Because I don't want to spend $2500 on a new tranny if the problem is really being caused by the clutch. And if it is the clutch, then it's cheaper to fix and eventually it would kill the new tranny if not also fixed.
Have you checked the slave cylinder at all with this tranny?
I'd check there first.
On the clutch itself you can test it out by putting it in a higher gear and try to move the car from a dead stop in that higher gear.
This puts the clutch in a high load situation and the car should basically stall.
If it slips and you move away from a dead stop in that high gear replace the clutch.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Have you checked the slave cylinder at all with this tranny?
I'd check there first.
On the clutch itself you can test it out by putting it in a higher gear and try to move the car from a dead stop in that higher gear.
This puts the clutch in a high load situation and the car should basically stall.
If it slips and you move away from a dead stop in that high gear replace the clutch.

Good luck.
Okay I will try that tomorrow. How exactly can you check the slave? Isn't it inside the bell housing? What should I be doing/looking for with the slave? Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
2015 RB Accent-not so stock 🤫
Joined
·
357 Posts
You have the 2013 6 speed manual which I believe has the external slave cylinder on the side of the tranny.
ED21640B-9109-41F5-8804-B46320C3D163.png


If this is the case it's an easy replacement item and will run you 20-50 dollars depending where you buy.
The picture above is for the Veloster manual 6 speed from Hyundai.

If you still have the original slave I'd replace it. It's not hard and easy to replace and bleed. I did a gravity bleed on mine when I did the spring valve delete on the slave cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
You have the 2013 6 speed manual which I believe has the external slave cylinder on the side of the tranny.
View attachment 104781

If this is the case it's an easy replacement item and will run you 20-50 dollars depending where you buy.
The picture above is for the Veloster manual 6 speed from Hyundai.

If you still have the original slave I'd replace it. It's not hard and easy to replace and bleed. I did a gravity bleed on mine when I did the spring valve delete on the slave cylinder.
I don't know if there was a change throughout the 2013 production year, but I definitely have the internal slave cylinder, unfortunately. I also tried starting from a dead stop in fourth gear and the car did stall out so it shouldn't be anything with the clutch disc itself right?
 

·
Registered
2015 RB Accent-not so stock 🤫
Joined
·
357 Posts
Correct. No slip so your clutch is properly engaging and not worn out.

Oh and my bad. If I'd have paid attention to your first post I would've know you had the slave cylinder inside the casing.
Only the NAV has the external slave cylinder.
Sorry about that. ?

Good luck and do keep us abreast of the situation. It's got my curiosity up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE:
So last weekend I got around to replacing the clutch...I think its safe to say I found the problem!
104862

The springs in the OEM flywheel were also shot, so I replaced it with an aluminum one. So far I have put on about 70 miles and the shifts are buttery smooth now! Thanks to everyone for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,568 Posts
That'll do it
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,207 Posts
Could you please link us to the parts you purchased?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Okay I will try that tomorrow. How exactly can you check the slave? Isn't it inside the bell housing? What should I be doing/looking for with the slave? Thanks for the help.
No- I own a 2013 & went thru massive ckutch issues when i 1st purchased it. Front seal leaking, doised oil on the clutch. The slave cyl was toast too. It's absolutely INTERNAL!! Sux.

My 2013 also has issues finding 2nd gear, esp when shifting down. My trans guy said there's just something OEM wrong with it bc he went thru ALL of my internals & rebuilt it, due to the fact tht the freaking front seal has to be replaced from the INSIDE, it doesn't just oull out the front like most others.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #14

·
Registered
2015 RB Accent-not so stock 🤫
Joined
·
357 Posts
Thank you for the links.
I'll be searching for a good clutch flywheel combination in the new year if not earlier.
Your setup looks sweet. 😍👍
Once installed a review would be nice, especially on how that aluminum flywheel works. 🙏🏽👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thank you for the links.
I'll be searching for a good clutch flywheel combination in the new year if not earlier.
Your setup looks sweet. 😍👍
Once installed a review would be nice, especially on how that aluminum flywheel works. 🙏🏽👍
I've had everything installed for about 6 or 7 months now. Everything works great! When I first installed it I thought I messed it up because the clutch pedal was super soft compared to the stock setup. However, this is normal as everything was new and after a while I got used to it and it stiffened up a bit. The aluminum flywheel is great! The friction zone on the new clutch might be a little bit shorter (quicker engage and disengage) but I also did that trick on the new slave where you take out the little plastic valve piece, so that could have had an effect as well. The car is still very drivable and very fun to drive! If you need a new clutch/flywheel setup, I recommend both these parts. Especially the aluminum flywheel (just make sure to get a sprung clutch disc).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,207 Posts
Yeah this and/or the kdmtuners/pierce kit is on my list.
Got any pics of the piece you removed? I’ll be looking at that too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: misnblu

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Yeah this and/or the kdmtuners/pierce kit is on my list.
Got any pics of the piece you removed? I’ll be looking at that too.
Here's what I removed. Like I said it comes out of the slave cylinder that is inside the bell housing. You just unscrew and remove the black plastic "stem" from the slave assembly and it's in there. I heard about it on another post somewhere here, I think somebody called it a "valvectomy" lol.
105474
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,207 Posts
His had it though
 
  • Like
Reactions: misnblu
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top