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2015 RB Accent-not so stock 馃か
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody removed their battery temperature sensor and disconnected from their negative post of their battery.

I'm asking this as I just did this in my car since I'm doing some electrical work (upgrading the wire and connections) on the battery's hot and ground cables.

I understand what this device does and took some readings via my dmm during idle in my garage and obd scan tool while driving and with the unit plugged into the battery temp sensor, voltages ranged anywhere from 13.8 to 14.1 while driving the car and idling depending on the battery temperature. This has been the norm since I've had the scan gauge some months back.

With this unit disconnected the battery voltage (charging voltage) went up to 14.1 to 14.4 and stayed consistent in those ranges in any kind of driving or idling.

So I proceeded in completely removing the sensor and sealed the connector with a rubber cover to keep it protected.
No issues with the voltage, no surging, and no kind of cel light saying something is amiss.

Anybody else done this when their battery terminal wore out?
Just curious to know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What are you trying to achieve? That's the real question here.....
Nothing but to clean up the engine bay with better wiring and to replace the factory terminals with something better.

All my engine bay grounds have been redone, all mounting points for the grounds have been scraped to metal and reattached, and positive and negative posts ave been changed to brass connectors with a single stud hookup.

My electrical and electronic background tell me that the .2-.4 volts increase won't harm the battery or over charge it.

I understand how the temp sensor works and had seen how it does through my scan gauge in the car.

I was asking if anyone else has done this and experienced any issues by doing so. ?
 

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Measure the resistance in ohms for all your cleaned up (and supplemented) grounding points. We鈥檝e been cleaning them for a few years now. Use some dielectric grease to coat the bare metal to prevent rust.

I created a minimal wiring enhancement kit awhile back to reduce the overall resistance of the electrical system. The hot alternator cable is the worst offender by far.

To answer your original question. The ECM uses that sensor to monitor the battery and will adjust the operation of various things based on that data. You may get a DTC after a few drive cycles, so you really should put it back.

If you wish to keep it off, let us know if you get a DTC and see if engine performance increases or decreases as a result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Measure the resistance in ohms for all your cleaned up (and supplemented) grounding points. We鈥檝e been cleaning them for a few years now. Use some dielectric grease to coat the bare metal to prevent rust.

I created a minimal wiring enhancement kit awhile back to reduce the overall resistance of the electrical system. The hot alternator cable is the worst offender by far.

To answer your original question. The ECM uses that sensor to monitor the battery and will adjust the operation of various things based on that data. You may get a DTC after a few drive cycles, so you really should put it back.

If you wish to keep it off, let us know if you get a DTC and see if engine performance increases or decreases as a result.
I use a product called BullFrog electronic cleaner/ corrosion prevention for all my battery connections.


This product is legit and been using it for years for ground connections and anything electric/ electronic that is exposed to the outdoor environment.

I'll also be keeping tabs on this setup with the battery temp sensor circuit removed from the system and let everyone know if there's any changes or codes that come up.
I don't anticipate any but you never know.
I still have the circuit put away just in case. ?

As of now the car runs like a champ without a tune and can only imagine what it would do in n/a mode with one.
I may wind up doing an n/a tune before the turbo swap to see what she has to offer. ?
 

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Looks like an Accent from your avatar.

Bullfrog is fine, of course. People reading this will usually have dielectric over specialty products. I only mentioned it because you didn鈥檛 say anything about the sealing of the connections, as a good electronics tech would. You have to remember the target audience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah it's an Accent but there's so many Veloster aftermarket parts on the car it's pretty much a Veloster I my book. ??

I've used dielectric grease but hated the greasy mess it leaves behind.
The bullfrog actually works the same but leaves little to no residue compared to grease. I've used this for years and it works.
Nothing like letting the target audience know about a newer product that works and has been proven in the electronic industry. ??
 

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i'd love to see what kind of power your Accent puts down against my old factory freak NAV :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i'd love to see what kind of power your Accent puts down against my old factory freak NAV :)
She runs pretty good so far.
Ive already removed the secondary cat and also plan on replacing the stock exhaust manifold with a header.
That should free up any remaining power for an n/a setup. ?

I will be tracking the car at the drag strip, 1/8 mile, and the 1/4 mile late spring or summer of next year for some numbers but not until I'm done swapping the rear axle with discs and have all the brake work complete.

More weight reduction with an antigravity lithium battery should help with the power to weight nicely.

I'm pretty excited about this build so far and when I get KDMTuners and SxthElement involved for the engine and tranny swap should be a blast to drive. ?

I couldn't afford a Veloster when I bought this Accent because I wasn't making the money I do now so with this build it'll be hopefully better than the Veloster turbo I couldn't afford. ???

Hopefully be doing some dyno pulls while n/a and then once turbo'd at SxthElement. ??
 

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BTR had mine on the rollers after some bolt ons and couldn't pull any more power out of it. they were flabbergasted and asked if i had been tuned before. low production number ftw lol

however sadly the NAV couldn't even touch a stock turbo :( but murdered other NAVs with comparable mods.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BTR had mine on the rollers after some bolt ons and couldn't pull any more power out of it. they were flabbergasted and asked if i had been tuned before. low production number ftw lol

however sadly the NAV couldn't even touch a stock turbo :( but murdered other NAVs with comparable mods.
You got lucky to have that Wednesday build at the factory. ?
Bet it was a blast to drive too. ?
I just checked out your sig and 167whp?? Yeah you had a good one but you sold it? ??
Why on earth would you have sold it? ?

Still flogging the Kia Rio around? Need pics please. ?
 

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Hello Guys,

I bought a Veloster from Auction with the negative battery termal and battery sensor with the wiring taken off. I am struggling finding where the battery sensor wiring connects to on the car. Can someone please share a pictures of where the wiring connects to
 

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You got lucky to have that Wednesday build at the factory. ?
Bet it was a blast to drive too. ?
I just checked out your sig and 167whp?? Yeah you had a good one but you sold it? ??
Why on earth would you have sold it? ?

Still flogging the Kia Rio around? Need pics please. ?
LOL i forgot to answer this but the factory turbo was better in every way ;) plus heated seats.

the 2001 kia rio was sold in 2021 it was just a terrible car all around.
 
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2014 Veloster Turbo Manual
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Hello Guys,

I bought a Veloster from Auction with the negative battery termal and battery sensor with the wiring taken off. I am struggling finding where the battery sensor wiring connects to on the car. Can someone please share a pictures of where the wiring connects to
something like this?

 

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Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle registration plate
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hello,

Thanks for that, but I meant where the battery sensor cable from the battery to goes. Mine I believe was cut when the negative terminal was taken off but I can't seem to locate where it was cut hence why I am asking where it connects to on the car wiring. Thanks
You don't really need it so don't worry about it.
The cable runs down behind the ecu and down somewhere into a harness.

Ive been running without that sensor for a coue years or more with no issues. 馃し
 
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