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I purchased a used 2016 Veloster Turbo with the 7sp DCT in February. My first upgrade will be the brakes. Already have Powerstop cross-drilled slotted rear rotors and Z23 pads. Up front I have Powerstop cross-drilled slotted rotors for a Mitsubishi Evo X and Z26 pads. I have also ordered the hardware and the brake kit needed. Just need to order the Brembo Calipers and Brake fluid. Will probably install the brakes in two weeks. I am still on the fence on the SS braided hoses, looked at Good ridge and PMS. Just don't know if they are worth it. Plan on painting the Caliper's either Gold or Vitamin C Pearl.
MikeH
 

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Welcome
To the forum. Are you tracking the car?
 

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Welcome
To the forum. Are you tracking the car?
I doubt it ... But you never know.
I drag raced my Eclipse back around the turn of the century, also drag race my old Charger back in the mid 80's.
I have a buddy who is apart of the Timed Attack Series , he is an official now. Doesn't race any more.
I just want to have the car ready for power upgrades and suspension upgrades. Will do the brakes once and that's it. I know it's overkill for the streets but it will look pretty cool.
 

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Okay lol

I was gonna say the stock brakes work on track with upgraded pads and fluid.

The rest is really overkill. Keep all your stock stuff for when you sell.

Can’t go wrong with goodridge or pierce lines.
 

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You really need to decide and be clear about what you are trying to accomplish. If all you care about is appearance, well then go for it. If you care about performance then a good set of pads, and I am not talking the local parts store ceramic pads, braided lines and high boiling point fluid, PROPERLY INSTALLED AND BEDDED will provide amazing results. Something along the lines of Hawk HP Plus. Cross drilled rotors are usually not recommended. Though I have not yet tracked my Veloster I have tracked two front wheel drive cars and the above yielded amazing results. Our hobby will never be free of what people think they need. Again if you want appearance do what ever floats your boat, if you truly care about performance just take one day and visit your closest track day. Ask questions, see what works and quite possibly save some money.
 

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I know the VT I tuned at the track this past weekend had the CTSV BBK up front and it did well on the track however the drilled and slotted rotors had cracks developing at many of the drilled holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Trying to get some Z23 pads for the front brake rotors. So I can have a matching set of pads. I had a set of Hawk pads on the Eclipse a few years ago, it was more of a track pad and not so good for the street. Not sure what kind of brake fluid to use. Motol 5.1 or Motol 600. Or something else.
I have done brake upgrades before !
Slotted rotors on a Mitsubishi 3000GT-SL.
X-Drilled/Slotted rotors on a Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX and on a Plymouth Laser I installed 12.4" front rotors from a 3000GT,(X-Drilled Slotted with EBP red stuff pads).
 

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I know the VT I tuned at the track this past weekend had the CTSV BBK up front and it did well on the track however the drilled and slotted rotors had cracks developing at many of the drilled holes.
Well I am stuck with those rotors ! They should be good for a few years.
 

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You really need to decide and be clear about what you are trying to accomplish. If all you care about is appearance, well then go for it. If you care about performance then a good set of pads, and I am not talking the local parts store ceramic pads, braided lines and high boiling point fluid, PROPERLY INSTALLED AND BEDDED will provide amazing results. Something along the lines of Hawk HP Plus. Cross drilled rotors are usually not recommended. Though I have not yet tracked my Veloster I have tracked two front wheel drive cars and the above yielded amazing results. Our hobby will never be free of what people think they need. Again if you want appearance do what ever floats your boat, if you truly care about performance just take one day and visit your closest track day. Ask questions, see what works and quite possibly save some money.
I have had this car less than 3 weeks. I am just starting to mod it ! Not even sure about what will be done to this car yet .
After you do a few laps at you local track , in your Veloster... Please .... Tell us about your experience .
 

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i have a stock VT.... with new sunsong oem lines, new hyundai calipers, oreilly cheap blank rotors, ebc redstuff pads, and ate 200 fluid. pierce rear bar and uniq front strut bar. i added konis and rspec springs late last year.

most of our stuff is time trials. first lap is a good warm up. then two really hot laps to setup your best times, then a cooldown.

for open lapping we usually do 20 or 25 minutes. if youre 100% on the car from the getgo, you will have all sorts of trouble especially if you're new to this. personally i like to develop a rhythm, 3 fast laps 1 slow. usually that is enough to get the brakes back to biting if i have stressed them out. my problem has never ever been engine temps. it was always brakes - but i'm an autocrosser at heart and autocrossers don't give a shit about brakes as they DONT heat up.

over the years ive actually learned to brake less at AX and on track. by less i mean HARDER but for less time. at TSMP there are brake markers, 6-1 before a 90 degree right leading into another 90 degree but more forgiving right. i would usually slowly apply brakes around 5 and be hard on em by 3 to make the turn. experience has taught me this is wrong - i brake hard at 4 and off by 2 now to make the turn lol i carry more speed in, let the car float off the apex, and get back on the throttle as i straighten out for the next right. you're moving faster / braking less. the rest of this particular course is NOT brake hungry. i try to let the car carry it's speed as much as possible, this i feel has the biggest effect against fading brakes.

i couldn't do what i do today on regular pads and fluid. btw i also have the SCCA record for sport5 at and HS classes at TSMP.
 
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Btw I’m unhappy with my new calipers. They are leaking from the piston seals looks like. Enough to empty the reservoir over the course of 2 months. Will address this soon. Looks like I’m gonna rebuild my old ones and pray and then exchange these. Or wait another month and just drive the Kia.
 

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Keep in mind that oem brakes are designed to safely stop the car at gross weight. Most tracked cars are well under gross. Sometimes depending on the track and modifications a larger brake package may be needed but I prefer to start with oem parts for the following reasons. Big brake kits usually come with alloy calipers, reducing overall and unsprung weight, this is good. The rotors however are larger and potentially heavier. Even if the hats are aluminum and the rotor is close to stock weight the larger diameter will create more rotational inertia and gyroscopic forces. If the oem parts can be upgraded with pads, lines and fluid I would rather have the lower inertia. Also track cars are commonly lightened, every pound removed reduces the thermal loading of the brakes. When I was road racing motorcycles I spent an entire winter trying to lightening my already stripped street bike. I was able to find an additional seven pounds. I could detect no increase in acceleration, though there was certainly a small benefit, but it was quite dramatic how much deeper I was able to move my brake marker entering the corner after the fastest straight. Imagine the stored energy of seven pounds at 120 mph. And yes drilled rotors tend to crack. It always amazes me that any brake system can survive the temperatures of track use.
 

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most of us in the racing scene do not use drilled or slotted rotors on our econoboxes. even alot of daily turned racecar do not just for the cracking. i certainly wouldn't :) they are more expensive! my car is stock weight minus the stuff that car fly around.
 

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Well not going to argue about the small micro crack around the holes. I can take pictures of them. The holes are designed to aid in cooling of the rotors. Didn't have any issues with slots in any rotors. BTW those Evo rotors are heavy !
 

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maybe this will help. its a porsche factory guide for the 911, but the premise is the same.

106239


yes they are heavy! i moved up to 276mm 3000gtvr4 front rotors and calipers on my mitsu mirage. the size difference was insane.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok , Parts are coming in... Got some Anodized Gold Spiked lugnuts and spacers.
Picked up 3 cans of VHT SP402 engine paint it's Burnt Copper. Should be able to do three coats of the Caliper's. The color is very close to our Vitamin C Pearl.
 

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Btw I’m unhappy with my new calipers. They are leaking from the piston seals looks like. Enough to empty the reservoir over the course of 2 months. Will address this soon. Looks like I’m gonna rebuild my old ones and pray and then exchange these. Or wait another month and just drive the Kia.
Where these calipers ACDelco or another brand ?
While at AutoZone and O'Reilly checking prices for 172-2287 and 172-2288 which were around $218 to $222. Noticed Duralast ones for $86 to 91 and some lesser brands at lower prices. I question there quality.
 

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they were brand new from hyundai.

ive determined the fronts are actually OK. the black lines i saw on them were most likely the little bit of grease i had on the ears melting. once i scrubbed them the lines did not come back. i had the car sit long enough to see a puddle on the wheel under a new rear caliper. going to swap it with a new one under warranty today.
 

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Collecting parts this week , the ACDelco calipers are on the way here the beginning of next week. Going to paint the Calipers before I install them using high temp engine paint., It's a close match to the Vitamin C Pearl. Will paint the rear calipers as soon as I have a nice morning here. Just going to tape everything as well as I can and rattle can those puppies in place... Might take pictures of the whole process and post it. I have 20mm spacers for the rear wheels ,gold lugnuts and Powerstop X-Drilled Slotted VT stock size rotors with Z23 pads.
The Fronts have EVO X 14.4" X-Drilled Slotted Powerstop rotors with Z26 pads. Cadillac CTS-V gen1 Brembo Calipers and 25mm spacers. I am not going to do SS brake lines at this time, I just don't think it is necessary yet.
Also leaning towards Motul 5.1 over the RBF 600 because I would be able to leave it in for a year and not have to change the brake fluid every 6 months. I have used Dot 4 brake fluid for years and never had brake fade in any of the cars I have had. The Wet Boiling Point is the one that counts not that 594•F optimal number that makes the sale happen. Just want to be practical... The car is just a daily driver !
 
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