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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thanks to everyone that took the time to answer my questions and Turbosocks for a great product and speedy service.

Hopefully this will help the noobs (like me) out there that thought this would be as simple as buying a boost gauge and the TS adapter. After several trips to the store and a few moments of RAGE I got it done.

Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge
Turbosocks Flange for BOV/Boost Gauge - Dual Port

OK, Let's do this...

After I found where I wanted the gauge I checked to see if I can run the wiring

Once I confirmed there would be no trouble I began my mission

1) Vacuum tubing: I ran this through what appears to be a large grommet under the dash.
You can't miss it as it has a large wiring harness running through it.
I used a drill bit the same diameter as the tubing for a snug fit.
Once drilled you can run the tubing through easily.
Drilling near the top kept me away from wires under the dash and under the hood.
I then passed the tubing through the hole and pulled all the slack I needed under the hood.
Auto part


2) Turbosocks vac adapter: I had to acquire a few pieces to get this to function with my particular gauge.
Mine came with 2 barbs as advertised. I plugged one for later use.
The second barb needed to be replaced with a 1/8 male npt.
This allowed me to use the compression fitting that came with my gauge.
Once all my fittings were assembled and on the adapter I installed the tubing onto it. Then
remove the sensor, place the ts adapter with gaskets in place, re install sensor. Simple!
At this time the adapter, sensor and vac tubing are in place under the hood.
Auto part Vehicle Machine Car


3) Boost Gauge: Inside the car I now attached the vac tubing to the gauge and my wires for lighting.
Once I double checked everything I turned on the car and checked to see that the gauge was functioning properly.

4) Lighting: The gauge is clearly marked +/-. I ran my wires to the fuse panel leaving plenty of slack.
Using a mini tap on the fuse panel under the dash I was able to get power to the gauge.
Just to the left of the fuse panel is a bolt. I ran my ground wire to it and secured it with a 1/4 nut.
Make sure you have extra fuses. The stock fuses are too short for the mini tap.
The mini fuse puller I had was also useless due to how the fuses sit.
I raged for a minute then used a pair of needle nose pliers to yank that little bitch out.
Product Room



DONE!
Land vehicle Vehicle Car City car Steering wheel


I thought this would be simple, which it was if you know what you might run into. I thought if I got a boost gauge and the TS adapter I could just install it. I had no idea there would be an issue with how to connect the gauge. I assumed it would all just fit together like Lego. I was wrong and got the help and answers to my questions here. In summary aside from the gauge and adapter I had to get:

Plug for one side of the adapter. You can also use a vac cap. The guy at the store gave me the plug so I used that.
New fitting for adapter to connect the fitting that came with gauge.
Mini tap and extra fuses.
 

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no pics....
 

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jare: I will NEVER tackle this project - even with your GREAT Walk Thru w Photos! I just want to COMPLIMENT and THANK YOU from ALL of us VT peoples for
adding this GREAT DIY in case we need to use it.

YOU ROCK!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
LOL, you can do it! You just have to make sure you have all the stuff needed. It was a learning experience and I feel confident I can do this again. I now know how to approach this and future projects.
jare: I will NEVER tackle this project - even with your GREAT Walk Thru w Photos! I just want to COMPLIMENT and THANK YOU from ALL of us VT peoples for
adding this GREAT DIY in case we need to use it.

YOU ROCK!
 

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Rotate ur gauge so that 20psi is at 12oclock. That way u know straight up needle is full boost. Just like a volt meter or any temp/pressure gauge.

Good work. Guess u holed ur dash? Think ill fab a mount in the far left air duct leaving a pillar or gauge pod to get shift light, volts, and oil pressure. Spoken like a motor guy -- never thought of egt. Too much stuff. So who had ability to punch this all out onto the nav monitor lol. R
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good idea the rotate thing. Looks like I hit 18-19psi. I hacked the dash and should complete it this weekend. It's not what I wanted but I have to finish it. I will post pics when I complete it.
 

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nice write up. thank you!!
 

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Nice work! Thanks for the write up.
Couple of things though. How and where did you route the wires inside the car? Also can you break down that fuse panel part a little better? I see 3 wires and 2 descriptions. And what does that male barb look like? Can you show it being inserted into the TS adapter? I imagine if you buy the gauge that he offers with it, you won't need to modify anything.
 

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I only used the 2 wires I pointed to, the other wire (black) with no arrows has nothing to do with the gauge. The +/- from the gauge were routed right behind the dash. They practically fell from behind the dash to the floor. I tucked them in by the fuse panel and made the connection as you can see in the pic. I noted that I did not use any barbs as my boost gauge came with a compression fitting. If you go to the TS website you can see the barb it comes with. If you get the gauge from TS you can mount it anywhere you like and probably won't need to get any of the fittings I needed. Good luck.

Nice work! Thanks for the write up.
Couple of things though. How and where did you route the wires inside the car? Also can you break down that fuse panel part a little better? I see 3 wires and 2 descriptions. And what does that male barb look like? Can you show it being inserted into the TS adapter? I imagine if you buy the gauge that he offers with it, you won't need to modify anything.
 

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I only used the 2 wires I pointed to, the other wire (black) with no arrows has nothing to do with the gauge. The +/- from the gauge were routed right behind the dash. They practically fell from behind the dash to the floor. I tucked them in by the fuse panel and made the connection as you can see in the pic. I noted that I did not use any barbs as my boost gauge came with a compression fitting. If you go to the TS website you can see the barb it comes with. If you get the gauge from TS you can mount it anywhere you like and probably won't need to get any of the fittings I needed. Good luck.
Thanks! I'll be tackling this as soon as I find an a pillar mount solution. I'm thinking a greddy universal pod painted close to match the factory color
 

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Do u have any better up close pictures of how the gauge is installed on the dash? Like the look and install. Did u use self tapping screws? Or something different? Thanks
 

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If you are talking about manifold, put your name down for this
 
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