[A14Turbo]

There was a loud roaring/whirring/grinding noise coming from the front end. After reading some reviews I was convinced that the tires were the culprit. Once it was obvious that they weren't the problem, I moved on to the brakes. Even though there was still some material on the pads I replaced all four corners, but the roaring remained. Finally I decided to check the wheel bearings. Bingo, at least the front passenger bearing is bad, though I will replace both fronts for symmetry.

Anyway, while working on it tonight I found that the passenger side lower ball joint was shot. The rubber boot was torn in two and the joint itself was difficult to move. It needs replacing, so now the questions are 1. ball joint or entire LCA? and 2. one side or both? One of the LCA bushings is showing signs of wear, so probably the entire LCA. But it is a good idea to replace both sides when one side goes bad?

 

[trdtoy]

Yes, replace all to be safe.

 

[RPW00Mirage]

entire LCA. both sides. you can also get a kit with tierods and swaybar endlinks. there is a very large very tight nut on the back of the LCA which super sucks. good luck.


although i only replaced one side when the wheel bearing/intermediate shaft bearing on my car was going out.

 

[A14Turbo]

Alright, I went ahead and ordered the pair of LCAs. The wheel bearings are pressed out, though I pressed the first one right into the receiver... of the same diameter. Man that sucked. The bearing steel chewed the teeth right off a carbide tipped reciprocating saw blade but eventually yielded to an hour of dremel grinding. I also didn't notice that I was cutting into the driver's side hub shaft when removing the inner bearing race. Luckily AZ had one in stock a few miles from home. Those bearing lock rings are also just a joy to pry off. But hey, it went about as well as I could hope for a first effort.

At least all of the LCA bolts were really easy to remove xD

 

[RPW00Mirage]

i ended up taking it all apart in the garage, hammering out the hub and bearing myself and brought it to a shop to reassemble the knuckle.

that's great about the LCA bolts. the big nut is like a ton of lbft.

 

[A14Turbo]

Alright, both LCAs and bearings are installed. What a relief to have the car driving like normal again. Mostly anyway... seems like the car tracks with less certainty than before I took things apart. Should I have an alignment performed?

 

[RPW00Mirage]

yeah for sure.... just incase. did you manage to check the endlinks and tierod stuff?

mine was out a little bit but i have plates and lasers to do it myself in the garage.

 

[trdtoy]

Check all suspension components and do get allignment checked at a minimum.

 

[lubricity]

It would help if you guys give some mileage when you have these problems.
Thanks

 

[A14Turbo]

It would help if you guys give some mileage when you have these problems.
Thanks

Sure, the bearing went bad at just under 100k miles.

 

[lubricity]

thanks

 

[The_Essentials]

There was a loud roaring/whirring/grinding noise coming from the front end. After reading some reviews I was convinced that the tires were the culprit. Once it was obvious that they weren't the problem, I moved on to the brakes. Even though there was still some material on the pads I replaced all four corners, but the roaring remained. Finally I decided to check the wheel bearings. Bingo, at least the front passenger bearing is bad, though I will replace both fronts for symmetry.

Anyway, while working on it tonight I found that the passenger side lower ball joint was shot. The rubber boot was torn in two and the joint itself was difficult to move. It needs replacing, so now the questions are 1. ball joint or entire LCA? and 2. one side or both? One of the LCA bushings is showing signs of wear, so probably the entire LCA. But it is a good idea to replace both sides when one side goes bad?

Huh. My passenger side front is making a similar noise. Same deal, pads and rotors are fairly new and have plenty of life, but when I stop at slow speeds it sounds like there's a rock or pebble stuck in the pads. At high speeds, sometimes it makes WW2 airplane noises. The wheel doesn't have any play, so I never suspected a bearing. Did you end up replacing the entire hub, or just the bearing itself?

 

[RPW00Mirage]

best bet is to shove a new hub in there with a bearing (you get new lug bolts too!) its the same amount of work.

 

[The_Essentials]

Any need to replace the axle nut? Wanna try to get everything priced out beforehand. Also, does it matter if it's OEM or not?

 

[RPW00Mirage]

rockauto has the durago hub kit, it's what i used. comes with a nut.

2014 HYUNDAI VELOSTER 1.6L L4 Turbocharged Wheel Bearing & Hub | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

if you order from them use this discount code A91E46729733B9

 

[The_Essentials]

Those aren't a bad price. Have you noticed any downsides so far? Also, not seeing where to put in the discount code, I might need an account to do so

 

[RPW00Mirage]

when you create the order, at the bottom will be "how did you hear about us" it goes in there.


no issues thus far. had a track day and a half dozen AX since i swapped them last july.

 

[The_Essentials]

when you create the order, at the bottom will be "how did you hear about us" it goes in there.


no issues thus far. had a track day and a half dozen AX since i swapped them last july.

Perfect. I have no issues replacing hubs once a year if they're only 50 bucks. I appreciate the link, was going to drop 110 per on some OEM hubs after reading this thread

 

[RPW00Mirage]

i replaced just the right side last year, so like 120k miles?

 

[A14Turbo]

I tried replacing just the bearings but while removing the inner race from one of the hubs I ground into it with the angle grinder so I replaced it too.