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Hopefully it is, maybe sniff the CAN bus again when you make a bluetooth call and see what happens?

Good idea, I havn't messed with embedded chips to do audio before, but I am sure you can get some beefy chips.

For a 6 channel dac, guess I am confused, you would need an Amp that takes in Front (L/R) Rear (L/R) Center & Subwoofer?

I have a NAV, it's the basic setup with no amplifier (audio comes straight from the head unit) which I guess I am confused by. I guess they have 3 head units??? basic, dimension, dimension+navigation? I am hoping that all three retain basic SPDIF/CAN capabilities...
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I think the only difference between dimension with and without nav is the GPS is wired differently and there are some internal changes to the head unit (more memory, SD card with maps, etc) to support the map software. Audio wise I believe they are identical. In my case where I have the dimension with no nav (basic turbo model) the only time I hear the head unit voice is when it is saying stuff for blue tooth commands. I am assuming the same voice is used for the navigation system so if I get my bluetooth command voice working the navigation voice would also work.

The converted I am working on doesn't seem especially useful for your setup (no external amp) unless you plan to open up your head unit and find the digital audio inside. I am grabbing the signal between the amplifier and the head unit. I wonder if your head unit is even applying equalization like ours is. The big reason for the converter is to get the original sound since the is heavy equalization and crossover applied to all of our amplified channels. If the signal from your head unit is not equalized (other than bass, mid, treble controls) I would just get a high quality line out converter (possibly just your amplifiers high level inputs) and be done with it.

For 6 channel I kinda forgot about the center channel but the way you listed would be a good option. I was leaving the sub as two separate channels in my mind. IIRC, the DAC I am using can do mixing internally so it makes creating a center channel (common mode sound between L and R) easy.

I do need to get the CAN bus sniffer back in place and press the voice activation button. I guess I keep saying blue tooth command because that is all I use the voice activation for but really it is the voice activation I am talking about.
 

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Where are you at with the project. I would be interested in buying one.
 

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Wow... this was one hell of a thread to read and I tend to think I know something about electronics lol! Wonder if he ever got it all debugged and working properly!
 

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Same here, very cool way to fix the clean signal problem and the most straightforward.
 

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I am very interested in buying one of these devices since nobody else seems to have done this other than you. I hate this heavily crossovered amp. It makes everything sound so yuck.
 

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I think the only difference between dimension with and without nav is the GPS is wired differently and there are some internal changes to the head unit (more memory, SD card with maps, etc) to support the map software. Audio wise I believe they are identical. In my case where I have the dimension with no nav (basic turbo model) the only time I hear the head unit voice is when it is saying stuff for blue tooth commands. I am assuming the same voice is used for the navigation system so if I get my bluetooth command voice working the navigation voice would also work.

The converted I am working on doesn't seem especially useful for your setup (no external amp) unless you plan to open up your head unit and find the digital audio inside. I am grabbing the signal between the amplifier and the head unit. I wonder if your head unit is even applying equalization like ours is. The big reason for the converter is to get the original sound since the is heavy equalization and crossover applied to all of our amplified channels. If the signal from your head unit is not equalized (other than bass, mid, treble controls) I would just get a high quality line out converter (possibly just your amplifiers high level inputs) and be done with it.

For 6 channel I kinda forgot about the center channel but the way you listed would be a good option. I was leaving the sub as two separate channels in my mind. IIRC, the DAC I am using can do mixing internally so it makes creating a center channel (common mode sound between L and R) easy.

I do need to get the CAN bus sniffer back in place and press the voice activation button. I guess I keep saying blue tooth command because that is all I use the voice activation for but really it is the voice activation I am talking about.
Is this project dead? I was enjoying reading through the technical aspects of it and was wondering if anything ever came out of this. I was also wondering if you made it with a box that could go between the head unit and the amplifier (perhaps behind the head unit) to replace the factory head unit but keep the factory amplifier. I ask this because I really want Android Auto, but I also like how the center speaker is the only speaker used for calls instead of blasting out of all speakers and wanted to keep that setup (assuming it is controlled by the DSP in the amplifier. (also want to add mono amp for better subs)
 

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I'm going to give my hand at making a CAN volume control device. Ideally it would be an arduino with a CAN board, but I'm not great with them. I have had experience with sniffing the CAN bus to create custom dashboards for my WRX, so I don't think it will be a complex task. The hardest part will be finding a way to control it (touch screen, volume knob, etc)
 

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I've identified the protocol used in the head unit as 100K Fault Tolerant CAN.
There aren't any off the shelf Arduino shields that can communicate over Low Speed/FT CAN, Only HS CAN. I've purchased a TJA1055 Fault Tolerant CAN Transceiver to try to swap out of an "off the shelf" Arduino CAN Shield with a MCP2551 with the TJA1055.

Once I figure that out, I will start analyzing the CAN frames and determine what is used to set the volume, and fader adjustments. Provided the logic involved isn't too complex, I can create a small Arduino device, with a potentiometer as a volume knob that can control volume and fader settings of the factory amplifier.

When installed, you must set your aftermarket head unit's volume to a consistent level. High enough to be loud, but low enough to not clip the audio. An RCA to SPDIF ADC will convert the Red/White audio into a digital signal the OEM amplifier can understand.

Obviously, When you want to change the volume on your radio, you must never change it with the buttons on your radio, you must use the Arduino controller and knob.
It might be possible to tap into the steering wheel controls, and wire them to the Arduino. I have not looked into that yet.
 

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I've collected CAN info on the volume control, and I was able to change the volume with the following IDs and data using pins 11 and 23 on the 24 pin harness.
106190


Each command is sent with a blank CAN frame, then the desired command 3 times.
For example, to set max volume these commands are issued
FFFFFFFFFFFF0000 <- Blank frame
(30 ms delay)
23FFFFFFFFFF0000 <- Desired volume setting
(30 ms delay)
23FFFFFFFFFF0000 <- Repeat 2nd time
(30 ms delay)
23FFFFFFFFFF0000 <- Repeat 3rd time

Can ID 0x00F is used to control balance, fader, EQ, and volume settings.

Volume Control
FFFFFFFFFFFF0000
0x00-0x23 (0-35) sent 3 times
00FFFFFFFFFF0000 (Mute)
23FFFFFFFFFF0000 (Max volume)


Balance
FFFFFFFFFFFF0000
0x00-0x14 (0A Midpoint 0-19)
FF00FFFFFFFF0000 (Left)
FF0AFFFFFFFF0000 (Center)
FF14FFFFFFFF0000 (Right)

Fader
FFFFFFFFFFFF0000
0x00-0x14 (0A Midpoint 0-19)
FFFF00FFFFFF0000 (Rear)
FFFF0AFFFFFF0000 (Center)
FFFF14FFFFFF0000 (Front)

Bass
FFFFFFFFFFFF0000
0x00-0x14 (0A Midpoint 0-19)
FFFFFF00FFFF0000 (-10)
FFFFFF0AFFFF0000 (0)
FFFFFF14FFFF0000 (10)

Mids
FFFFFFFFFFFF0000
0x00-0x14 (0A=Midpoint 0-19)
FFFFFFFF00FF0000 (-10)
FFFFFFFF0AFF0000 (0)
FFFFFFFF14FF0000 (10)

Treble
FFFFFFFFFFFF0000
0x00-0x14 (0A=Midpoint 0-19)
FFFFFFFFFF000000 (-10)
FFFFFFFFFF0A0000 (0)
FFFFFFFFFF140000 (10)
 
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