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At 115000mi just after warranty, starts getting random misfire codes, and running horribly. I replace the coils, runs better but doesn’t [email protected] the original power. Two weeks later the number one cylinder is dead.. in hopes it wasn’t internal I diagnosed everything but the compression. Finally I checked the compression .... 0psi! Ripped the motor apart found a burnt up exhaust valve cylinder one. Rebuilt the head just replacing the burnt valve but checking and cleaning all others that looked perfect. Pu5 every5hin* back together runs like a champ. Six months later I get a recall in the mail. Saying the software needed to be updated that it causes premature fireing? On to say this can cause premature engine failure?? Has any one had this issue? I’m fortunate I can repair this typ of this but my real question is did that Recall cause this ? Has a
 

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2014 Veloster Turbo Manual
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can you give us some more info about your car?
 

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:LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL::ROFLMAO: his username got me rollin'
 

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Recall letter was only issued for 2013s, so that was inferred.

The pre-ignition (LSPI, actually) recall tune fix really has nothing to do with burnt exhaust valves, as that happens far less frequently (first time we’ve heard of it, actually).

Might as well get the recall done. Could it prevent burnt exhaust valves going forward? Possibly.
 

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Just after 100K, I lost compression in number one cylinder. Just got the head off and... Huge chip out of the exhaust valve. Wondering if I should replace the other valves as a preventative measure.
 

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2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
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Yes replace all. This is caused by a misfire and/or plug failure in most cases.
 

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With my 16 VT I've been through 3 heads with 2 of them burning exhaust valves on random cylinders (4,3) and only lasting a month each. The last one dropped a valve seat on cylinder 1 intake.

I want to know how to stop the car from burning valves. It gets expensive when you have to replace a head every month.
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Are these remanufactured heads or new heads? New head gasket? Oil weight and change interval? need a lot more info
 

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Are these remanufactured heads or new heads? New head gasket? Oil weight and change interval? need a lot more info
I change my oil every 2k with liquid moly gl-6 5w-30 oil. 1 is the original head the other was from an Elantra g4fd.
Heads we're redone at a machine shop before install. The only conclusion I can come to is that the shop doesn't know how to properly seat the valves and set the lash.

Car is tuned for 350 wheel. It's just a race car with race car problems.
 

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It can be a number of issues and without more information there will be no good answers.
 

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I change my oil every 2k with liquid moly gl-6 5w-30 oil. 1 is the original head the other was from an Elantra g4fd.
Heads we're redone at a machine shop before install. The only conclusion I can come to is that the shop doesn't know how to properly seat the valves and set the lash.

Car is tuned for 350 wheel. It's just a race car with race car problems.
Yeah, that makes sense. Thought you were running stock power and burning it up.
 

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FYI burnt exhaust valves is usually due to the valves no sealing and leaking and/or the state of tune of the car.
 

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It's probably a valve seal issue because it's jumping cylinders everytime it blows.

When it had a new head on it, it will run great for a week. After that it starts to go downhill from there. At 1 month I'm usually taking it back apart because it blew a valve.

I do all engine work myself so I know it's installed and tested correctly. My friends forged engine that I built has the OE head on it that I had rebuilt at another shop. It hasn't blown a valve yet. Everything else on the friends build is identical to mine as in mechanical and bolt on.
 
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