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CAI and turbo...I don't get it

7992 Views 58 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  UHF3
Sorry if this has been discussed already...just delete me if it has. My question is...why have a CAI if the air is going to be heated by the turbo? (thus the need for FMIC) I understand the turbo is not always I guess during those periods a CAI would make sense, but as soon as the turbo kicks in, all that cold air just got heated up. So, what's the point?
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Basically like this,
What freezes faster, hot water or cold water?
What boils faster, hot water or cold water?
1:hot water
2:hot water
Hot water will not freeze faster. That's an old wives tale.
Mpemba effect - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

but usually hot and cold freeze at the same time.

Back to topic.

There are a few factors to take into consideration when comparing an SRI and CAI. The first question raised is the intake temps. Now sitting in traffic the CAI should have lower intake temps since it is getting air from outside the engine bay, but while moving the air under the hood also moves and starts brining in cooler air to closer match the air temps being taken in by a CAI. I think the bigger factor here is the design of a CAI compared to an SRI. The longer tube of a CAI creates a smoother airflow between the filter and the turbo, this is where I think the gains in horsepower are made.
The other thing is are the so-called cold air intakes colder than the standard air cleaner assembly? The standard assembly draws air low from the front of the car, so that air ought to be cold. The second issue is the notoriously poor performance of cone air filters when it comes to filtering. We all know that paper air filters do a better job (albeit with a slightly restricted air flow) and K&N style air filters do not filter terribly well, as many used oil analysis tell us (or when I once worked at Suzuki and we saw worn inlet valves and lost compression caused by K&N air filters). The parts of an engine that wear the most are the inlet valves, caused by grit between the valve and the seat.
This this this this. My poor Protege5 I had before my VT had cone filter on it for more than 175k miles. The car started to burn through a quart of oil every 300 miles because the vavle seats got so bad from a crappy cone filter I put on it. I also didn't care for the car like I should have (like getting the valve seals fixed).
175k miles. I had the car just a touch over 10 years and put the cone filter on the first week I got it. By the time is started to burn oil that badly I just decided that I needed something new so I always had a quart or two sitting in the back. I did put a cone filter on my VT for a short time just for kicks and to see how it sounded. It sounded awesome but I decided to put the box back on. I would love to see someone come out with a replacement hardpipe that fits from the turbo to the stock airbox and see if there are any results to be make there.
Sorry, I said valve seat then valve seal. I meant the first. (I try to proofread my posts for the most part and missed that). The filter I had on the P5 was an S&B dry filter.

I found this article but this is about the K&N drop-in vs paper.
K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)
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