Car Getting Old (Throwing CELs)

684 Views 13 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Ericksen56, 3 mo ago

Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

Hi all, new to the forum, not new to the VT.

Original owner of a 2013 VT now with 175 000kms (around 110 000 miles)

I chose not to mod the car as I just enjoyed driving it as is. Lately I have been driving it more in a way to preserve it vs spirited as I need it to last a few more years. Only mods are the headlights to HID.

I have had absolutely no issues until the last 6 months. I can't get it to stop throwing a CEL for 0133, and 2237 despite changing the O2 sensor (upon initial swap, it went away for a few weeks after clearing only to come back on again, then off for a day or two and back. Since I can't pinpoint any drastic change, I just let it clear itself which it does. Only to come back on again the next day, clear itself few days later etc.

Here is a list of everything I have done maintenance wise / normally:
Contacted dealer and they claim all recalls / related work have been done for the VIN.
OEM oil filter + 5w30 full syn every 3/4mo and/or 5000km.
Shell V-Power gas only (same station near me for 95% of fill ups)
Engine air filter and cabin air filter 2x a year (spring and fall)
PCV valve yearly every spring
Coil packs changed @ 150 000km
Spark Plugs changed @75 000km and 150 000km
Brakes and Rotors done @ 150 000km (yes it's manual trans lol)
Serp / Accessory belt @ 175 000kms
Crankshaft position sensor @ when it was failing (160 000km) never threw any CELs but symptoms obvious
Bank 1, Sensor 1 swapped when throwing 0133, 2237. (@170 000km) - temporarily stopped throwing codes for a few weeks, now they're back.
Battery replaced every 4-5 years. Or as needed.

I keep it clean and washed. And while it stills looks like new on the outside. Clearly the inside is getting old and broken. It's also been burning some oil around 1-1.5L/1-1.5Q in between oil changes.

Things I am planning to do. When changing out the plugs the build up never seemed to bad. But when swapping the O2-B1S1 the carbon build up was caked on.

Change out the MAP sensor when I do the PCV and filters next month.
Start using fuel system cleaner (techron plus)
Take it another step further and use a more comprehensive product like seafoam for the gas, the oil and the intake spray.

Not really sure what else to do and/or look at apart from maybe somehow an animal chewing up the electrical connection somehow? I tried browsing around for those specific codes 0133 and 2237 and searches kind of lead no where really other than it being the O2. There isn't much specific info around for those specific codes on this vehicle.

Aside from installing a catch can, is there anything else maintenance wise or part wise that could be obviously that I am overlooking? Like I said I would like to get a couple more years out of it up to 200 000km, and in good shape before selling it off to someone.

Don't want to sell it off to someone if it is nothing but issues for them and would rather just part it out at the point given how good the majority of parts are in the interior etc.

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Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · #3 · 3 mo ago

trdtoy said:
Be sure the car has oem sensors and parts other than the plugs. Plugs need to be oem from the 2016+ VT.

3k mile oil and filter changes max with proper full synthetic oil. What you have been using is the wrong weight for sure and not sure of the specific oil used.

Do check all wiring and connections including all the grounds in and around the engine bay.

Thanks,

Let me check which plugs I put in last. Used 91568 NGK.

Oil changes and filter done as per, (it's 5000km which is around 3000 miles). Oil used is per manual and many done at the dealer. As per them, and what I buy if doing it elsewhere is Quaker State Full Synthethic 5W30.

I will do my best to try and check all the wiring.

I put in some Techtron fuel system cleaner today, and low and behold it CEL actually went out....... But it could of been a pure coincidence as it only went out for about 60km and then came back on again.

Still no change in performance or any strong indicators there is actually an issue (unlike when the crankshaft started to go bad). As well as when the coil pack(s) started to go, both CEL and misfire. After swap CEL never came back and no more stuttering / rough idles.

This one is kind of weird, because initially after swapping the O2 to a OEM bank 1 sensor 1 position. The CEL stayed off when cleared for 2-3 weeks completely. And before the swap was constantly on. But now it seems like it just comes one for a few hundred KM, then goes off for a bit, then comes back on again with nothing I can tell or pinpoint exact when or why. Other then the fact that it seems to mostly pop back on if idling (like I run into the store just to grab something quickly) I come out and it's one.

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Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · #5 · 3 mo ago

trdtoy said:
The 91568 are the oem plugs for the 13 VT and the worst of the oem plugs for the VT. Only a heat range 6 they're too hot and the reason for misfires and engine damage and longevity issues. The 2016+ VT uses heat range 8 oem plug which are 2 steps colder and less issues on the oem tune.

5k Km oil and filter changes are not that bad. Just need to use oem filter only but not the oil recommended in the manual as that has since been revised. Also if you're burning oil the spec will no longer be valid.

No need for fuel system cleaners just use 91+ AKI fuel though. And if you have carbon caked up on the valves to not use induction cleaners. Walnut blast is far better and safer. Then do a can setup VTA properly to not have issues. Consider the weather you have though when doing a can setup or you can have major issues.

Did you use oem parts or aftermarket replacements?

OEM parts for everything, whether directly from the dealer and/or if significantly cheaper from that Albert dude on FB.. Actually I think pretty much everything came from the dealer except the coil packs which Albert was able to get for like half the cost.

Rest was around same price or cheaper from dealer.

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Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · #7 · 3 mo ago

trdtoy said:
I'd be sure you bought the correct O2 sensors and have them in the correct location. Also check all wiring and electrical connections.

Only bought one, from the dealer. Was bank 1 sensor 1, replaced at same location at a mechanic. Dealer confirmed vin and part as 39210 2B250. Asked to keep the old part when taken out (was a lot of caked on carbon), and made sure they showed me before hand so they knew which one to take off as we were on the same page.

Would have done that myself actually, but I have no way of getting my car high enough in the air to do so, unfortunately. Which may also lead to an issue trying to be sure everything was connected in property. It's actually been quite annoying not having access to a hoist / lift. Jack stands unfortunately don't get it high enough to do the trick.

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Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · #9 · 3 mo ago

Perhaps, however the code it's throwing is still 0133 and 2237, which is showing bank 1 sensor 1, slow circuit response upstream.

I would assume if the other sensor was / had an issue it would throw a different code? Not saying you're wrong in replacing the other as well. Just figured this issue seems to be contained to something going on with that location.

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Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · #10 · 3 mo ago

Just quick update and to remind myself what I did / have done.

Replaced the air filter and cabin filter yesterday. About a month earlier than I have marked for typical swap (will still do PCV in 6 weeks) just because I had a spare hour and wanted to take it one step further and remove the entire thing. (as if I were about to install a CAI)

I then ran my hand behind the area where the O2 B1S1 was, tried the wiggle test and the actual part seemed very secure. I then ran the line back up to where the electrical was connected. Disconnected it, as well as multiple other connections in the same area. Sprayed the connections with Air duster, and then again with some quick dry electrical cleaner. And let them sit for a couple minutes while I cleaned out the airbox.

Re-connected everything and then re-installed the air box.

Started it back up and cleared the codes (again P0133 / P2237).

Drove it for around 75km (45miles) last night mostly city. Never came back on. The actual air filter was not dirty, nor was there any reason to think the box or hoses were loose. Therefore I doubt it was that.

If it doesn't throw the code again in the next few days or couple 100 kms. I can only assume it has something to do with the electrical connection which was either not connected tight, and/or some dirt/grease from the person that installed it got in (or maybe was in there the whole time causing this to begin with) and therefore didn't even actually even need a new 02 just yet.

Guess we will find out.

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Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · #11 · 3 mo ago

Car now has around 225km (140 miles) without throwing the code again since doing those changes.

But ugh, as one thing fix another issue arises. This time while my back up camera was working completely fine 2 days ago. Yesterday it start with a flicker. Which got worse and worse as the day progressed until eventually going to a completely black screen. And now it makes the noise beep but the screen doesn't even turn over.

Tried a simple reset button on the dash and nothing. Hoping it's just a loose connection that came apart completely and just needs to be re-connected in the latch. Similar to the issue I had with the reverse spray nozzle a few years ago. Came completely detached, had to open the back panel, re-attach it and secure it all together with like tape and come other stuff before the spray nozzle worked properly again.

If not, hopefully there are some cheap compatible cams out there. I am sure the stealer ship will wont an absolute absurd amount for OEM. In this case I don't care if it's OEM or not, just something that works okay. You definitely don't realize how much you depend on it and how useless it is until it doesn't work haha.

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Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · #13 · 3 mo ago

RPW00Mirage said:
mine went out around 100k miles and then the chinese one i bought to replace it went out as well, lol i may or may not get another amazon one but i also have a complete aftermarket radio that i still havent put in.

i imagine if it's like my oem one it was all corroded... probably from the button falling apart. it's an easy swap.

Yeah thanks, if it's anything like the spray nozzle it will be a 15-20m job, maybe twice if it has to be replaced and just not disconnected. The way the symptoms appeared before completely going out leads me to believe that it being loose / disconnected is a high probability.

The spray nozzle was annoying, remember one day nothing was coming out the back window, but there was from the front so we got fluid check. I thought nothing was coming out until I open my trunk to see a pool of water all over the place. ugh.

BTW if anyone runs into the spray nozzle issue -->

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Ericksen56

Discussion Starter · #14 · 3 mo ago

RPW00Mirage said:
mine went out around 100k miles and then the chinese one i bought to replace it went out as well, lol i may or may not get another amazon one but i also have a complete aftermarket radio that i still havent put in.

i imagine if it's like my oem one it was all corroded... probably from the button falling apart. it's an easy swap.

You're spot on. Took it off today, and the trunk latch button did semi-recently get a tare in it.

It was definitely corroded. With a bit of moisture inside despite the gaskets still in good shape. Therefore 1 entry point. Had a laugh on the phone with the dealer before I hung up on them, get this "949.99 for the part, and labour between $149.99 - $249.99" absolutely outrageous considering OEM parts online are selling for 1/3rd the price. And it took me 20 minutes to take it all apart, disconnect and try to clean the part, clean the inside moisture, reconnect to test. Then cut the old one and stick it back in tight and put the unit back in play. Then add some tuck-tape to the rubber button to prevent more water getting in.

Anyway, will call a few junk yards to see if I can scoop an OEM cheap or grab a cheap one online for under $100.

Also, the CEL still has yet to throw a code with another 75km on it regarding the o2.

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