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I have run a long time with the clutch switch disengaged, almost the entire time I've owned the car. However last night I wanted cruise so I reconnected the switch. I didn't experience ANY surging in first or second gear. So I got to thinking, the ECU is spiking the rpms when the clutch is in, presumably to help drivers who are new to a manual. The main reason for the clutch disconnect thing was to fix the sudden change in the ecu from when the clutch was in to when the clutch was out. My hypothesis; clutch in, RPMs spike very easily, clutch out and rpms are linear.
I want to tape/tie down the clutch switch so it is always depressed. If my thinking is right that will stop the rpm spikes and give me a true linear pedal feel. Has anyone tried this at all? I'll give it a shot tonight when home but don't want really want to mess with it if there is a problem from leaving that switch engaged at all times.
UPDATE:
"always on"= switch plugged in and plunger taped down
"always off"= switch unplugged
I learned some valuable information. I went out and taped the switch down so it stayed always on and went for a test drive. The rev spiking seemed to be lessened but it was still there so that's debatable. However it does mean that the spiking part of it is controlled by the other switch (lower switch). Second thing I noticed, this is the big one; the RPM hang was BAD. Bad enough that I started laughing out loud while driving it. I could let off the gas, depress the clutch, shift, and the rpms would never change. It hung for a good 2 seconds easy. So now I know the rpm hang is based on the upper switch. Another thing I noticed was with the switch plugged it normally, the car pulled better. Maybe not harder than with it unplugged, but I liked the feel of it much more. Unplugged felt like the turbo was nearly at max boost all the time. now when I step on it I feel it pull then pull some more when the turbo spools up.
Here's the major thing I found that may help some people out. The switch mounts through a hole in a bracket then is held in place with two nuts, one on each side. There is a silver threaded shaft and then the black plastic plunger. Mine was mounted in the center of the threaded shaft so I backed it out until I couldn't see any more threads past the nut and tightened it up. Took it on another test drive and it seems much improved. The RPM hang is gone, it may hang for a fraction of a second but it's so hard to tell. It looks like as soon as I press the clutch in the rpms begin to fall. Also the surge I had noticed from leaving the switch "always on" was gone. That was the main reason people unplug the switch in the first place.
Long story short. If you want the benefits of an unplugged switch but keep the benefits of the plugged in switch, I would recommend you adjust it so it's as far back as it can with leaving enough threads to tighten it up. This got rid of any RPM hang, and any jerking in first and second that you get with the switch unplugged.
I want to tape/tie down the clutch switch so it is always depressed. If my thinking is right that will stop the rpm spikes and give me a true linear pedal feel. Has anyone tried this at all? I'll give it a shot tonight when home but don't want really want to mess with it if there is a problem from leaving that switch engaged at all times.
UPDATE:
"always on"= switch plugged in and plunger taped down
"always off"= switch unplugged
I learned some valuable information. I went out and taped the switch down so it stayed always on and went for a test drive. The rev spiking seemed to be lessened but it was still there so that's debatable. However it does mean that the spiking part of it is controlled by the other switch (lower switch). Second thing I noticed, this is the big one; the RPM hang was BAD. Bad enough that I started laughing out loud while driving it. I could let off the gas, depress the clutch, shift, and the rpms would never change. It hung for a good 2 seconds easy. So now I know the rpm hang is based on the upper switch. Another thing I noticed was with the switch plugged it normally, the car pulled better. Maybe not harder than with it unplugged, but I liked the feel of it much more. Unplugged felt like the turbo was nearly at max boost all the time. now when I step on it I feel it pull then pull some more when the turbo spools up.
Here's the major thing I found that may help some people out. The switch mounts through a hole in a bracket then is held in place with two nuts, one on each side. There is a silver threaded shaft and then the black plastic plunger. Mine was mounted in the center of the threaded shaft so I backed it out until I couldn't see any more threads past the nut and tightened it up. Took it on another test drive and it seems much improved. The RPM hang is gone, it may hang for a fraction of a second but it's so hard to tell. It looks like as soon as I press the clutch in the rpms begin to fall. Also the surge I had noticed from leaving the switch "always on" was gone. That was the main reason people unplug the switch in the first place.
Long story short. If you want the benefits of an unplugged switch but keep the benefits of the plugged in switch, I would recommend you adjust it so it's as far back as it can with leaving enough threads to tighten it up. This got rid of any RPM hang, and any jerking in first and second that you get with the switch unplugged.
