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2014 Veloster Turbo Automatic
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, it's me again. My poor veloster seems to always have something broken on it.

On the way home from work today, my veloster lost all power. Had to pull over on the side of the road, hazards, popped hood etc. After running a fault check, code p0087 came up. After checking online, it looks like the fuel rail pressure is low. I checked the connections and under the car; no leaking fuel. After turning the car back on, it worked perfectly. Up and down the rev range, no issues. I decided to monitor the fuel pressures, and I noticed that the in-tank fuel pump seemed to be spiking frequently on or off gas. After about 15 miles, the car lost power again. I noticed the high pressure fuel pump's PSI went from about 1500 to 0 in a sharp, smooth arc. After pumping the throttle and letting off completely, it came back. This happened on and off again during the course of my trip.

Info:
I had about 1/4 of a tank of gas
Low pressure pump has been recently replaced with a Deatchwerks DW65c, around 3 months ago.
143k on the odo
High pressure fuel pump is original, as are the fuel lines

No datalogs, as I was on the road and driving

What are your thoughts on this? I know the OEM fuel line can kink and lose pressure, but the feeling I'm getting from it is an electronics issue, especially since it's been run harder and hotter previously, but had no issues
 

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2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
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Usually an oem fuel line issue. You'll have to catch it in a datalog to know 100% or post a video of it doing it. FYI you can't see pressure from the lpfp unfortunately just the hpfp/rail pressure. The lp fuel line pressure is regulated to 5 bar at the tank but will be far less with fuel line issues.

Best bet is replace with a good lp fuel line as you'll need it anyway before a tune on your model year per my suggestion anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, after filling my tank to full it doesn't seem to be happening anymore. I'll datalog my commute for the next week or so while the tank runs down to catch it again. I'll keep y'all posted if something happens.

Are there premade fuel line replacements or am I going to need to make one? I've got some 3/8ths fuel line in my trunk after installing catch cans, so I could probably slp one together as long as no specialty fittings are needed
 

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Many fuel lines available so no need to make one. Just be sure you get one compatible with E fuels and has screw together fittings for connection at the tank and the HPFP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally got it to happen again


15:11.0 - 15:11.30 you can see the fuel rail pressure just dies, then slowly rolls back on. This was under a constant throttle input

15:22.0 - 15:23.3 I was gunning it on the on ramp and it sounded like the wastegate opened fully around 4k RPM. WG2 on my realtime info went from ~30% duty to 90%
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Time for that aftermarket fuel line
Came in yesterday! Seems like a straightforward install, Tork's fuel line came with some nice instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anything I can do while installing to prevent that? This is my first time working with these fittings
 

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dont crossthread them :) there is little space at the tank.
 
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Just be sure not to cross thread and that they're tight at both ends and can't vibrate lose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but it's happened again. I've replaced the fuel line with a braided one. No leaks on either end, no rubbing, one of the plastic clips holding it to the body came loose and vibrates a bit but that shouldn't affect this. I was driving on the highway for about an hour, when the car suddenly lost all power. P0087, no RPM, nothing. Had to put the car in neutral while coasting, turn off the car, then turn it back on to get the power back. This happened 4-5 times over the course of about a mile. I was able to limp it off the highway and into a gas station and fill the tank up. I was at about a quarter of a tank before filling up.

So far, I haven't completely lost power again since getting gas, but the car feels....weird. It just hangs at a certain RPM for a few seconds before the transmission shifts when accelerating, but then picks up okay afterwards. What else could it be if not the fuel line or LPFP? Can the HPFP go bad?

Relevant parts:
Tork braided fuel line
deatschwerks 65c fuel pump
 

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If this is after installing fuel pump and the upgraded line is not leaking then it is usually a faulty install of the pump. Need to see what the pressure is on cold car and idle and wide open to see what is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The pump has been installed for about 5 months now, and has lasted through highway driving and 2 track days. What pressure do you need to see, lpfp or hpfp?
 

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You can't see lpfp pressure via obd2 with the car running unfortunately only the hpfp. You can see the prime pressure from the lpfp not running on a cold engine though.

Heck based on post #12 I'd be checking battery, electrical connections, then possibly the crank position sensor. Could be other things as well but you have to eliminate things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Battery was checked for voltage prior to my track day, hovering around 12.9v last time I checked. No issues with cold starts. I'll go check the connections today. once I remove the crank sensor, what should I be looking for to determine f it's good or bad?
 

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Load test the battery after the car has not ran in many hours and pref over night and check when colder.

The cables are known to be loose on the battery terminals and cause issues.

With the crank sensor just replace with an oem sensor. Good prevention maintenance at your mileage even if not the issue.

But rpm going to 0 and cutting off like you mentioned has been caused by all of the above in these cars and not throw a code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Checked the load this morning, about 610 amps on startup in ~50 degree weather. Couldn't measure the voltage, but after starting up the alternator was giving around 14.2V. I've cranked the bolts down on both of the terminals, but the positive terminal had some corrosion on it. I cleaned it off with a rag since I didn't have my wire brush handy. Neither terminal is moving and I feel like I could lift the battery by one of the cables. I'll likely replace the crank sensor come next paycheck.

Could it possibly be related to the fuel pump relay? I've never had a relay fail, so I'm not sure what the symptoms would be. The fact that this issue has only happened after about an hour of driving makes me think it might be related to heat soak in the fusebox, but I'm not sure if that's even a thing.
 

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Clean the terminals, cables, and grounds in and around the engine bay like I posted in a thread I made.

Load test the battery properly. Meaning after not running the car overnight check the V without load then with say 50A applied to the battery. The alternator works, that is a good thing.

It may be related to something else but without a known good battery, known good connections and grounds, nothing will operate well. Also based on the symptoms in post #12 and the miles and age of your car the crank sensor is a known culprit that needs to be addressed for prevention purposes anyway.

Another possibility is the vacuum pump or BCM has caused similar issues posted in post #12 as well. Also can't rule out bad gas. Something things to keep in the back of your mind.

I'd see what it does after all of this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm curious as well. I'll start with the crank sensor, since I have a few of the symptoms that it presents.

I don't think it's bad gas, I usually get mine from the same station, and it's Shell gasoline.

I'll go ahead and get to work with a wire brush on the places you mentioned to rule that out as well.

The battery was recently purchased about a year ago, it's a Super Start platinum AGM from O'Reileys.

I'll check the vacuum pump and BCM. I saw SkyShadex's post on the vacuum pump, but I don't know where the BCM is located. Is that under the fuse box?
 
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