[The_Essentials]

After months of parts replacements, cleaning, and troubleshooting, I think I've isolated the issue to temperature. Potentially temperature inside the fuel tank. It seems like the fuel is getting too hot and there's some sort of safety cutoff that happens. I came to this conclusion because the the issue with the car cutting off completely disappears when you add more gas to the tank. It also seems to fix the issue for different lengths of time depending on how much gas you put in it.

For instance: If I'm under half a tank, and I put in a gallon of gas, it will fix the issue for about 30 minutes. If I'm nearly empty and fill it all the way to the top, I get a few hours of driving before it cuts out again.

Is there a way to check fuel temperature? What would cause the gas inside the tank to heat up? And do you guys think I'm on the right track, or could it be something else?

 

[trdtoy]

Temperature will not cause the code.

 

[The_Essentials]

The code is just a symptom, not the cause. Something is causing the LPFP to fail to send fuel to the HPFP, since it has to prime the line again after cutting off. If I've replaced the fuel line, fuel sock, fuel filter, fuel pump (twice, no change), HPFP, and level sending unit, what else could it be other than environmental? The injectors aren't leaking, otherwise it would pop an o2 sensor code for running rich. It only happens after the car gets heat soaked, and only in the summer. What else could cause it other than heat?

 

[trdtoy]

Rail sensor

 

[The_Essentials]

I haven't replaced it yet. Why would the Rail Sensor be affecting low pressure fuel though?

 

[trdtoy]

Nobody said it was. That's just your assumption. It can give a false reading though which can make the car to weird things.....

 

[The_Essentials]

Nobody said it was. That's just your assumption. It can give a false reading though which can make the car to weird things.....

Got it. I was assuming it was happening before the HPFP since the fuel line was dry when I started the car. Is there a way to test the sensor without replacing it outright? Draining the coolant just to remove the intake manifold is going to give me ulcers

 

[trdtoy]

The code can happen due to a dry line and/or rail and cranking etc. But if all is working well after that point it will not occur. The pressure in the lp fuel line is regulated mechanically and the pumps are activated by the rail sensor outputs vs tune commands. If the rail sensor output is off at any point enough to trigger a code it will but not always. There is no easy way to test the sensor unfortunately. But also, at the same time, other things help determine fueling needs that can cause issues with fueling and rpm and car shutting off such as the crank sensor which you have been having issues with.

 

[bassonhigh]

Did you figure out?

 

[The_Essentials]

Not yet. New engine is going in soon, will test after that

 

[TooGqForYou]

what's the word?

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