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Discussion Starter #1
Summer is coming up, and being in the desert (AZ) was wondering what everyone is doing to keep their IATs as low as possible.

Other than Meth and E85, what are other options to prevent knock? I'll be purchasing a fuel pump soon so I can run a little bit of Flex fuel from now on.

Some questions:
-I know most of us are running SRIs, but would a CIA be a better option for summer, or period?
-Engine cover; think it keeps the engine bay cooler with it on vs off?
-wrapping radiator hoses - big difference? What do you recommend if so?
-Intercooler - this is last on my plans due to expense and advice from trdtoy (I got weak internal engine), but do larger FMICs make that big a diff when it comes to IATs?
-hood vents. Does it really make that big a difference? If so I'll just pop em out lol.

Thanks guys
 

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Summer is coming up, and being in the desert (AZ) was wondering what everyone is doing to keep their IATs as low as possible.

Other than Meth and E85, what are other options to prevent knock? I'll be purchasing a fuel pump soon so I can run a little bit of Flex fuel from now on.

Some questions:
-I know most of us are running SRIs, but would a CIA be a better option for summer, or period?
-Engine cover; think it keeps the engine bay cooler with it on vs off?
-wrapping radiator hoses - big difference? What do you recommend if so?
-Intercooler - this is last on my plans due to expense and advice from trdtoy (I got weak internal engine), but do larger FMICs make that big a diff when it comes to IATs?
-hood vents. Does it really make that big a difference? If so I'll just pop em out lol.
CAI vs. SRI - depends
Engine cover - ditch it
Wrapping coolant hoses - yes, lava wrap
IC - sure, but WAI is better (see below)
Hood vents - yes

Water/alcohol injection (WAI) is the most effective way to reduce IATs when hard on the throttle (depends on configuration), plus it adds octane and keeps the internals cleaner. This can stave off the need of an aftermarket intercooler for a long time.

Also, the TB coolant bypass mod (assuming you did this already when upgrading to 60mm TB) is mandatory for IAT reduction.

Better coolant + distilled water (+water wetter additives if coolant is marginal) - Mishimoto Liquid Chill coolant or AMSOIL HD coolant are both great.

How much over ambient are your IATs typically?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
CAI vs. SRI - depends
Engine cover - ditch it
Wrapping coolant hoses - yes, lava wrap
IC - sure, but WAI is better (see below)
Hood vents - yes

Water/alcohol injection (WAI) is the most effective way to reduce IATs when hard on the throttle (depends on configuration), plus it adds octane and keeps the internals cleaner. This can stave off the need of an aftermarket intercooler for a long time.

Also, the TB coolant bypass mod (assuming you did this already when upgrading to 60mm TB) is mandatory for IAT reduction.

Better coolant + distilled water (+water wetter additives if coolant is marginal) - Mishimoto Liquid Chill coolant or AMSOIL HD coolant are both great.

How much over ambient are your IATs typically?
Thanks X.

My IATs are usually 10-15 over, but it recently started warming up (80s) and i notice theyll be 108, 109..
I did do the coolant bypass when I upgraded my TB. I plan on running meth later in the year. I'm going to get a ethanol compatible fuel pump so i can run a few gallons in the tank to help with knock.

Looks like I'll be popping out the plastic pieces on the hood and wrapping the coolant hoses.

have you wrapped the downpipe? at least for me, the upper portion i think wrapping might help with how hot the bay gets?

When you say ditch the cover, is it because you personally don't like it, or is it a detriment to IATs?
 

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Wrapping the downpipe is a good idea, ceramic coating it is even better, but since it is located on the lower back side of the engine, it’s nowhere near the IAT sensor (part of the MAP sensor).

Both; it’s heavy and retains heat near the MAP/IAT sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wrapping the downpipe is a good idea, ceramic coating it is even better, but since it is located on the lower back side of the engine, it’s nowhere near the IAT sensor (part of the MAP sensor).

Both; it’s heavy and retains heat near the MAP/IAT sensor.

I was hoping it was personal preference only...I like the look haha looks like I have to clean the valve cover

Ok, I'll plan to wrap the DP as well (same wrap as the coolant hoses?).

Also, what do you think about a turbo wrap? I know they're pricey, but those turbos are HOT.
 

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Don’t need to wrap the downpipe right now., due to its location. Get the small stuff out of the way first. If you’re going to remove the downpipe, have it ceramic coated. Is your DP even a 1-pc?

Turbo blankets won’t fit because the exhaust manifold is fused with the turbine housing. I tried to get a custom blanket made and the place flaked out.

Going WAI should be the goal. Blue juice (washer fluid) with a couple bottles of yellow HEET is fine.

I believe I was the second person on this forum to go WAI nearly six years ago. One of the best mods you can do.
 

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Insulate all coolant hoses in the bay. Remove weather strip/seal at rear of the bay. Remove fake hood vents. Distilled water, water wetter, and just enough coolant to not freeze during coldest weather the car will see. TB and manifold coolant bypass. Remove engine cover to let heat escape from the engine easier. Also allows the coils to function better and last longer not being as hot which will help prevent knock/misfires.

Other than those you'll want a good WAI kit setup properly for what you're wanting to do. In the case of a stock intercooler you'll want a nozzle before and after the intercooler for the most effective results. This can lower your iat A LOT compared to other means, increase octane, and thus reduce risk of knock/misfires.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll start with all the easy ones (cover, coolant hose wrap, vents). Since I'm in AZ should I just run distilled water and water wetter?

Also what wrap do you recommend exactly. X referred to lava wrap... But there's so many options. I read dei titanium is good and not fibrous like most fiberglass wrap.

I'll be purchasing the fuel pump you recommended soon. I think meth injection during the summer months especially is something I'm interested in doing eventually. Just costly...

Thanks for all the help!
 

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DEI Titanium = lava wrap. It will still release fibers like fiberglass, so use gloves + long sleeves to prevent itching and a cheap filter mask to avoid inhaling said fibers.

WAI can and should be used year round. Cheaper than most ICs for initial cost, but you will need a solenoid since you’d be spraying through the 3TBS (post-TB). Then it’s just paying for washer fluid & HEET.

Don’t buy Boost Juice either, it’s a ripoff.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don’t need to wrap the downpipe right now., due to its location. Get the small stuff out of the way first. If you’re going to remove the downpipe, have it ceramic coated. Is your DP even a 1-pc?

Turbo blankets won’t fit because the exhaust manifold is fused with the turbine housing. I tried to get a custom blanket made and the place flaked out.

Going WAI should be the goal. Blue juice (washer fluid) with a couple bottles of yellow HEET is fine.

I believe I was the second person on this forum to go WAI nearly six years ago. One of the best mods you can do.
No, I got the cheapo DP cuz I was afraid I might bust a stud lol So I guess wrapping is useless when it comes to lowering engine bay temp.

I Plan on getting the AEM kit at the end of the year at latest. I read a few threads stating that our cars like 100% meth, and anything lower will hinder performance. You run wiper fluid and heet; ratio? Where did you position your resevoir?
 

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No, I got the cheapo DP cuz I was afraid I might bust a stud lol So I guess wrapping is useless when it comes to lowering engine bay temp.

I Plan on getting the AEM kit at the end of the year at latest. I read a few threads stating that our cars like 100% meth, and anything lower will hinder performance. You run wiper fluid and heet; ratio? Where did you position your resevoir?
You an get a tap for the stock fluid reservoir... dont worry about 100% meth... its pretty dangerous to run. Devils Own makes metal tank taps that even have a built in screen.
 

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40-50%. 3-gallon tank in hatch.

100% is not really necessary if you’re not chasing power numbers. 50/50 is fine; the water will reduce pre-ignition risk while the alcohol will reduce the detonation risk.
 

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Distilled water, water wetter, and just enough coolant to not freeze during coldest weather the car will see. TB and manifold coolant bypass. Remove engine cover to let heat escape from the engine easier. Also allows the coils to function better and last longer not being as hot which will help prevent knock/misfires.
Oh, this is interesting. All the time here on the .org and never saw the coolant suggestion.

I live in Central Texas, so I need to do some of these things or the VT gets heat sinked when it gest above 90f.

To be clear, you are suggesting to replace the stock coolant/water with just distilled water, water wetter, and a little coolant based on your area.
And if it almost never freezes, then maybe 25% coolant is ok or would you suggest more/less?

The links to the TB and manifold bypass no longer work, but the concept makes sense.
Assume the bypass is to take coolant hoses off TB and manifold and connect line/loop with a fitting of some type?

All makes good sense. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Distilled water, water wetter, and just enough coolant to not freeze during coldest weather the car will see. TB and manifold coolant bypass. Remove engine cover to let heat escape from the engine easier. Also allows the coils to function better and last longer not being as hot which will help prevent knock/misfires.
Oh, this is interesting. All the time here on the .org and never saw the coolant suggestion.

I live in Central Texas, so I need to do some of these things or the VT gets heat sinked when it gest above 90f.

To be clear, you are suggesting to replace the stock coolant/water with just distilled water, water wetter, and a little coolant based on your area.
And if it almost never freezes, then maybe 25% coolant is ok or would you suggest more/less?

The links to the TB and manifold bypass no longer work, but the concept makes sense.
Assume the bypass is to take coolant hoses off TB and manifold and connect line/loop with a fitting of some type?

All makes good sense. Thanks for the info.
Pop on a 160 thermostat as well. My temps have been great, but we'll see how summer looks lol

After popping the faux hood vents, placing my hand above them: lots of heat! So when though they're ugly without em on, I'd say they're well worth it. I'm too cheap to purchasing functional vents... But might have to cuz it's such an eye sore.

Even the area where the rear weather strip was displaced allot of heat, so that too I'd say is worth it.

Still gotta wrap my coolant hoses this weekend.

Speaking with TRD about a trans cooler as well. Gonna see how temps look in the summer. I'm being extra precautious now that I'm at 100k (wish I knew these things sooner).
 

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Oh, this is interesting. All the time here on the .org and never saw the coolant suggestion.

I live in Central Texas, so I need to do some of these things or the VT gets heat sinked when it gest above 90f.

To be clear, you are suggesting to replace the stock coolant/water with just distilled water, water wetter, and a little coolant based on your area.
And if it almost never freezes, then maybe 25% coolant is ok or would you suggest more/less?

The links to the TB and manifold bypass no longer work, but the concept makes sense.
Assume the bypass is to take coolant hoses off TB and manifold and connect line/loop with a fitting of some type?

All makes good sense. Thanks for the info.
Cars I do any thermostat swaps or coolant changes on get flushed with distilled water a couple times first. Then filled with bottle of water wetter, gallon of 50/50 coolant, topped off with distilled water. This is good for most VT. Extremely cold areas will need more coolant but if it never freezes where you take your VT then just distilled water and water wetter works best. You will need a higher psi radiator cap and check coolant levels.

The bypass of both TB and IM is cheap but time consuming. All you need is a length of hose and 2 clamps. But the time it takes will depend on your skill level and tools you have. Not gaining much over just a TB bypass other than being cleaner and less potential areas for coolant leak.
 

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It does freeze here in AZ... not much but in the winter we get overnight lows in the 20s. Food for thought.

I've done all of the items mentioned above other than 160 degree tstat.

- Coolant hoses lava wrapped (itchy mother fuckers too!!)
- Amsoil HD Coolant cut with Hyperlube
- AEM Injection kit (I run 100% meth becuase racecar)
- coolant bypass
- ceramic coated DP
- I never use the engine cover.
- intake tube on my car is 100% silicone and carbon fiber so zero heat soak there.

I will say that I put the weatherstrip back on at the top of the hood, I saw zero measurable difference and it made the hood rattle around. I have a 2016 so I do not have the fake vents otherwise I would have cut them open and made them functional. Also, running a premium synthtic oil helps temps as well.

These are all good things...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Gold taped my Intake and Cold pipe. IATs take longer to get up there, and appears to be several degrees cooler than usual, not much of a difference.
 

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I had the functional vents on my 13 auto and don’t use them on an auto without baffling to keep water away from the range sensor... it dried out and and was fine after putting the cover back. I now have a 16 manual and have those mesh vents for someone who needs them. They were over priced even used with a couple of cracked tabs and no studs. Looked cool though and didn’t fly away. Lol
I’m about to start my range of mods again. Didn’t realize there was a coolant bypass for the manifold. Good news. Bama summers are hell.


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