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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First I'm giving Marathon veloster reference credit for starting this sticky in performance:cool:. The OEM instruction portion is invaluable. But it was evident to me that guys are doing the work,..but not doing a complete service. i.e. changing the fuel filter.

How to remove fuel pump [IN TANK]/ Re-Install Fuel Pump VIA HYUNDAI MOTORS

1.
Release residual pressure (Open gas cap)

2.
Remove rear Seat(s)

3.
Remove the fuel pump service cover (A).
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Drawing Blackboard Black-and-white

4. Line art Diagram Auto part Drawing

Disconnect the fuel pump connector (A).
5.
Disconnect the fuel feed tube quick connector (B) and the vapor tube quick-connector (D).
6.
Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor connector (C).
7.
Remove the plate cover (E) after removing the bolts.
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8.
Remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.
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Fuel pump plate cover installation bolt :
2.0 ~ 2.9 N.m (0.2 ~ 0.3 kgf.m, 1.4 ~ 2.2 lbs



The screen sock and the internal bucket are only 40 % of the "filtering process" our Low Pressure Fuel Pump set up has.
The FILTER is the primary safety gap. If you have removed the assembly and cleaned it out great, but you didn't CHANGE out the Carbon filled filter assembly there is still compacted garbage built up by use until now.
***In our case half the suspicions of fuel system failures is gunk from a sloppy manufacturing process getting into the filter system and making it out eventually filling/clogging the fuel system/HPFP/injectors.

So,..if this is you...go back buy a filter assembly and finish the job. Its a great feeling!
Clean out the sock,..YES,...clean out the tub,..YES,..but for Gods sake,...CHANGE THE FILTER!!!

The dis assembly process is straight forward. Take your time. Observe your connectors, understand them before you start yanking/twisting.

My cool ass service dudes at Ray Skillman Hyundai gave me warnings and pointers about shit they themselves have done wrong on this so PAY ATTENTION.:smile:

First, this is what you need to get.

Here is what she looks like out.

This is the area that is full of a carbon based filtration media that you guys have been leaving out.

The following are shots covering O rings you MUST transfer from the old fuel filter to your new one. Failure to do so will result in evap faults CELs and poor running.
First the internal O ring that houses the actual LPFP that is inserted into the middle of the fuel filter assembly.

The second is on the outside of the cylinder, here it is.

Now you have completely removed ALL debris and the possibility of old debris in your old media from migrating through and causing havoc. Oh and don't over tighten the fuel pump service cover bolts,..2.2 lbs??lol.
Even if you are one who has had an engine pop, and replaced. Do this service,..dealers are not that thorough.

TORKme has a LPFP direct replacement, when its available, get it! You're in here anyway!
 

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thanks for the info! might as well grab one of these and change it out while you have it open. whats the cost on this part and could you post up the part number please?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
thanks for the info! might as well grab one of these and change it out while you have it open. whats the cost on this part and could you post up the part number please?
The fuel filter is less than thirty bucks. Also the perfect cleaning media for all areas, mesh netting, cylinder, outer housing is brake cleaner. Douse it up, use a shop vac on the sock,..let dry(its real quick).
part number 31112-3x000

Oh,..and while I had the top off, I put a 500,000 candle power light into the tank,...spotless! The insides are like a golden mirror!!?
 

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"
***In our case half the suspicions of fuel system failures is gunk from a sloppy manufacturing process getting into the filter system and making it out eventually filling/clogging the fuel system/HPFP/injectors."

I'm glad this was put in the message. It's very good to note it's all suspicions/speculations....SO FAR.

I have to admit, I'm really curious about this. Pretty much to the point of checking mine. I've done the job before on customers' cars as far as an LPFP failure or a level sensor failure. The one thing I hated about it was the difficulty of getting that access cover off. They just should've bolted the damn thing on and raised the price if the car $50-100. lol

Nice little write up Gaijiin
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A bit more advice

The difficulty hare refers to is the "ever sticky" that lines the inside of the top of the access port. If you do this service in warm weather it is to your advantage.
-When you pull on the lid use steady pressure. Start in one corner, and get the seal to separate "from the car body",..not the cover. lowly pull/separate the sticky substance until it is free. Then immediately reset the "ever sticky" back onto the cover. Leave it face up ready for re-application.

When you remove the whole assembly, TAKE A PICTURE OF IT FOR REFRENCE LATER!!!! This is your quality control:furious:

-Connectors inside/on the fuel pump assembly.
When reassembling make note of how Hyundai kept this idiot proof as much as possible. A few of the connectors have clamps that only mount/orientate in a single fashion. This is accomplished by latches of different widths.
NEANDERTHAL MAKE FIT!! PUSH REAL HARD!!! NO...It only goes on one way. Take your time.
The electrical connectors are different colors. When re-assenbling,...brown connector up and away from you, black/grey is closest to you.
Make sure you re-loop and dress all the wires hoses in the mounted braces/brackets Hyundai provides for you.
-Yes,..that flexible hose that mounts on the bottom goes underneath the wire fuel float, and you clamp it in.
 

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How soon should this be done for a brand new car? I have less than 800 miles on it...
when is you build date? If it was built after august or september of 13 you are most likely free from these issues
 

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I believe mine was built when they resumed production, unfortunately they must have used components manufactured before the strike by disgruntled employees. It was bloody hell waitjng for them to put mine together, corporate really made it happen for me. I was very surprised and impressed byhe way they handled it.
 

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Born date: Sept 5, 2012; odo mileage 39840 miles, purchase date Nov 2013, after reading all this thread, I had expected to find a lot of crap, but perhaps I missed the window of the possible ill manufactured issues. My filter screen had some black elements in it, took a while to get it clean, but still left a small stain. Not much crap in the bottom of the container. 3 on/offs to acc and the VT started right up. Unfortunately, I still have a rough idle, but from my 20 mile drive, the car does seem to respond better. Might need to get me a TORK lpfp. lol
Water Plumbing fixture




Auto part Automotive fuel system Fuel pump Gas Pump
 

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Mcguyver had and isue wirh a crimped fuel line also it might also be part of the problem might go ahead and check it out just in case im cheking mine tomorrow. Im changuinmy oil do il take a look around and post pics if i find something out of place
 

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What is recommended to use to clean the sock? I plan on having my service done within the next week or so and I'd like to tell the shop doing it, the best course of action.
Just replace it with a new sock. They're not supposed to be cleaned.
 
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