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Complete Fuel pump/filter LPFP service,..helpful hints.

28119 Views 35 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  trdtoy
First I'm giving Marathon veloster reference credit for starting this sticky in performance:cool:. The OEM instruction portion is invaluable. But it was evident to me that guys are doing the work,..but not doing a complete service. i.e. changing the fuel filter.

How to remove fuel pump [IN TANK]/ Re-Install Fuel Pump VIA HYUNDAI MOTORS

Release residual pressure (Open gas cap)

Remove rear Seat(s)

Remove the fuel pump service cover (A).
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Drawing Blackboard Black-and-white

4. Line art Diagram Auto part Drawing

Disconnect the fuel pump connector (A).
Disconnect the fuel feed tube quick connector (B) and the vapor tube quick-connector (D).
Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor connector (C).
Remove the plate cover (E) after removing the bolts.
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Remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.
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Fuel pump plate cover installation bolt :
2.0 ~ 2.9 N.m (0.2 ~ 0.3 kgf.m, 1.4 ~ 2.2 lbs

The screen sock and the internal bucket are only 40 % of the "filtering process" our Low Pressure Fuel Pump set up has.
The FILTER is the primary safety gap. If you have removed the assembly and cleaned it out great, but you didn't CHANGE out the Carbon filled filter assembly there is still compacted garbage built up by use until now.
***In our case half the suspicions of fuel system failures is gunk from a sloppy manufacturing process getting into the filter system and making it out eventually filling/clogging the fuel system/HPFP/injectors.

So,..if this is you...go back buy a filter assembly and finish the job. Its a great feeling!
Clean out the sock,..YES,...clean out the tub,..YES,..but for Gods sake,...CHANGE THE FILTER!!!

The dis assembly process is straight forward. Take your time. Observe your connectors, understand them before you start yanking/twisting.

My cool ass service dudes at Ray Skillman Hyundai gave me warnings and pointers about shit they themselves have done wrong on this so PAY ATTENTION.:smile:

First, this is what you need to get.

Here is what she looks like out.

This is the area that is full of a carbon based filtration media that you guys have been leaving out.

The following are shots covering O rings you MUST transfer from the old fuel filter to your new one. Failure to do so will result in evap faults CELs and poor running.
First the internal O ring that houses the actual LPFP that is inserted into the middle of the fuel filter assembly.

The second is on the outside of the cylinder, here it is.

Now you have completely removed ALL debris and the possibility of old debris in your old media from migrating through and causing havoc. Oh and don't over tighten the fuel pump service cover bolts,..2.2 lbs??lol.
Even if you are one who has had an engine pop, and replaced. Do this service,..dealers are not that thorough.

TORKme has a LPFP direct replacement, when its available, get it! You're in here anyway!
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Don’t mean to revive an older thread, just want to post my experience. Had a check engine light pop up a week ago. I was driving about 50mph on the side road of the highway when my car went limp mode, couldn’t go past 3k rpms. Managed to drive it home safely and took it to the Hyundai dealer a couple of days later. They provided me with the codes and a whopping $1060 repair bill to replace the fuel pump assembly and O ring. $433 for the fuel pump assembly and $4 for the O ring plus labor cost. My car is a 2016 Veloster Turbo Manual w/ about 61k miles.

Part numbers
Complete Fuel Pump Assembly 31110-2v601
O Ring 311231R500

Code P0191
Secondary code P2191

Decided to take my car from the dealer and source the parts myself. Had to pay $98 for the diagnostic. Found the oem parts online at a discounted price, more thank likely the same ones they were gonna order at the dealer but trying to charge me MSRP price, not shaming the dealer since I know it’s all business. $320 for both parts plus $10 for shipping and days later I have the new parts at my doorstep. Removal and installation of the new parts was made easier with the help of this thread and thank you for everyone that had helpful hints along the way. Long story short the car is running strong so far with the new fuel pump assembly, technically only needed a new fuel pump but oem ones are more expensive if you ordered just the fuel pump compared to the whole assembly. Cleared the check engine light at my local mechanic shop. Took some picture of the gunk in the old assembly and although at the dealer they couldn’t pinpoint why my fuel pump failed, I am almost certain it was because of this gunk in the assembly and filter sock.
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