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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First I'm giving Marathon veloster reference credit for starting this sticky in performance:cool:. The OEM instruction portion is invaluable. But it was evident to me that guys are doing the work,..but not doing a complete service. i.e. changing the fuel filter.

How to remove fuel pump [IN TANK]/ Re-Install Fuel Pump VIA HYUNDAI MOTORS

1.
Release residual pressure (Open gas cap)

2.
Remove rear Seat(s)

3.
Remove the fuel pump service cover (A).
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Drawing Blackboard Black-and-white

4. Line art Diagram Auto part Drawing

Disconnect the fuel pump connector (A).
5.
Disconnect the fuel feed tube quick connector (B) and the vapor tube quick-connector (D).
6.
Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor connector (C).
7.
Remove the plate cover (E) after removing the bolts.
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8.
Remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.
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Fuel pump plate cover installation bolt :
2.0 ~ 2.9 N.m (0.2 ~ 0.3 kgf.m, 1.4 ~ 2.2 lbs



The screen sock and the internal bucket are only 40 % of the "filtering process" our Low Pressure Fuel Pump set up has.
The FILTER is the primary safety gap. If you have removed the assembly and cleaned it out great, but you didn't CHANGE out the Carbon filled filter assembly there is still compacted garbage built up by use until now.
***In our case half the suspicions of fuel system failures is gunk from a sloppy manufacturing process getting into the filter system and making it out eventually filling/clogging the fuel system/HPFP/injectors.

So,..if this is you...go back buy a filter assembly and finish the job. Its a great feeling!
Clean out the sock,..YES,...clean out the tub,..YES,..but for Gods sake,...CHANGE THE FILTER!!!

The dis assembly process is straight forward. Take your time. Observe your connectors, understand them before you start yanking/twisting.

My cool ass service dudes at Ray Skillman Hyundai gave me warnings and pointers about shit they themselves have done wrong on this so PAY ATTENTION.:smile:

First, this is what you need to get.

Here is what she looks like out.

This is the area that is full of a carbon based filtration media that you guys have been leaving out.

The following are shots covering O rings you MUST transfer from the old fuel filter to your new one. Failure to do so will result in evap faults CELs and poor running.
First the internal O ring that houses the actual LPFP that is inserted into the middle of the fuel filter assembly.

The second is on the outside of the cylinder, here it is.

Now you have completely removed ALL debris and the possibility of old debris in your old media from migrating through and causing havoc. Oh and don't over tighten the fuel pump service cover bolts,..2.2 lbs??lol.
Even if you are one who has had an engine pop, and replaced. Do this service,..dealers are not that thorough.

TORKme has a LPFP direct replacement, when its available, get it! You're in here anyway!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
thanks for the info! might as well grab one of these and change it out while you have it open. whats the cost on this part and could you post up the part number please?
The fuel filter is less than thirty bucks. Also the perfect cleaning media for all areas, mesh netting, cylinder, outer housing is brake cleaner. Douse it up, use a shop vac on the sock,..let dry(its real quick).
part number 31112-3x000

Oh,..and while I had the top off, I put a 500,000 candle power light into the tank,...spotless! The insides are like a golden mirror!!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A bit more advice

The difficulty hare refers to is the "ever sticky" that lines the inside of the top of the access port. If you do this service in warm weather it is to your advantage.
-When you pull on the lid use steady pressure. Start in one corner, and get the seal to separate "from the car body",..not the cover. lowly pull/separate the sticky substance until it is free. Then immediately reset the "ever sticky" back onto the cover. Leave it face up ready for re-application.

When you remove the whole assembly, TAKE A PICTURE OF IT FOR REFRENCE LATER!!!! This is your quality control:furious:

-Connectors inside/on the fuel pump assembly.
When reassembling make note of how Hyundai kept this idiot proof as much as possible. A few of the connectors have clamps that only mount/orientate in a single fashion. This is accomplished by latches of different widths.
NEANDERTHAL MAKE FIT!! PUSH REAL HARD!!! NO...It only goes on one way. Take your time.
The electrical connectors are different colors. When re-assenbling,...brown connector up and away from you, black/grey is closest to you.
Make sure you re-loop and dress all the wires hoses in the mounted braces/brackets Hyundai provides for you.
-Yes,..that flexible hose that mounts on the bottom goes underneath the wire fuel float, and you clamp it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Cleaning the sock

I used brake cleaner.

Start from outside in. In other words hit the outside with the solvents,..it will break free the inside deposits which have made there way into the mesh. Hold the sock upside down let the flowing solvents irrigate the deposits out. There will be some still in there. Take a small thin flat head screw driver and gingerly agitate any stained or clogged areas. Irrigate with more break cleaner.

For the tough spots:

I used a wet/dry shop vac. Found the smallest end hose,... then I used a piece of old bike tire inner tube with a small straw, taped it up to seal it. Inserted the small straw into the sock access tube, irrigated from the outside again with brake cleaner while the vac drew it and whatever debris was left. Spanky clean,....like new!:cool:
 
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