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I install the entire system myself and built my fiberglass sound mounted enclosure for a JL 12w3v3 in my Base V. Since i already posted about the box i built, i won't spend much time on that. Here is the thread if you are interested. http://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/...eads/7598-fiberglass-subwoofer-box-build.html.
I started replacing the speakers and installing both amps. JL XD400/4 is powering all four speaker (Rockford Fosgate T1675-S in the front doors and JL C2-650x in the rear) but I plan on replacing the front speakers with JL C5-650 to make everything JL. I made an 3/4" MDF speaker ring for each speaker, except for the passenger driver side, I used 1/4" to fit inside the factory housing. I routered around the OEM speakers to capture the exact size and mounting holes so i wouldn't have to drill anything. On the backside of the MDF rings, i placed a strip of high density weather foam to ensure a complete seal.
Old speaker
New Speaker
There are other threads that go over how remove door panel, run wires, and how to remove the radio facia so i did not take any pictures of me doing so.
But for my wires, I used Stinger HPM series 4g. Stinger 4000 series 4 channel RCAs. Stinger 8000 series 2 channel RCAs, Stinger hues holder, Stinger distribution block, and Monster 16g XLN speaker wire (They were sold out of stinger hahaha) which i ran to each speaker. I tapped into the acc (cig lighter) for my remote and then ran it to a relay, which is all behind the radio.
I maintained the factory head unit by taping into each speaker signal behind the head unit. I installed a basic rockford fosagte 4 channel high to low adapter. I plan on installing a JL cleansweep later when my wallet tells me i can. Unfortunately, i never wrote down the wire color or pin location for the speaker wires if you are looking to do the same. However, just remove the radio and remove the harness, simply cut away the "fuzzy tape" that is wrapped around the wires connected to the harness and you will notice that their are wires that are twisted together. each twisted pair leads to a speaker! those are your speaker wires! rule of thumb is that the lighter colored wire is the negative. if my memory serves me correctly, one of the twisted pairs is an off white and brownish color, that leads to the passenger front door. so, if you are just installing a single sub, that would be the how to locate the audio signal. but make sure you check polarity incase your positive and negative are swapped. Just look for the twisted wires.
My poor V isn't looking very clean right now
I cutout a piece of 1/2" MDF that matched the shape under the seat. since it is the Base V, I did not have an amp, you can remove the OEM amp if you tap into the speaker signal at that location. I utilized the factory bolts sticking up where the factory amp would be and bolted my amp rack to those bolts. I simply counter sunk the holes, wrapped it in black carpet, placed a washed under the bolt and screwed it right in! I did this for both seats since I will be using two amps.
Once each amp rack was cut, wrapped and mounted, then I screwed in each amplifier and hooked up all the wires
The JL XD400/4 along side my stinger distribution block
and the JL G1700
If you are wondering, this amp is a few years old (got it in 2008), bought this when i got my JL 12w3v3. I would love for my amps to match, but it works great, doesn't even get warm, and it fits under the seat!
And for the Subwoofer: JL 12w3v3
the subwoofer installed in the box, and the installed in the car. I forgot to mention, the box is mounted to the truck by removing the tie down hooks and and screwing into the factory tie down hook's bolt location. The box is just shy of 1.25 cubic feet, so i packed some polly fill inside. lastly, 10g stinger pro OFC cable is wired in the box. I think I mentioned everything!
I started replacing the speakers and installing both amps. JL XD400/4 is powering all four speaker (Rockford Fosgate T1675-S in the front doors and JL C2-650x in the rear) but I plan on replacing the front speakers with JL C5-650 to make everything JL. I made an 3/4" MDF speaker ring for each speaker, except for the passenger driver side, I used 1/4" to fit inside the factory housing. I routered around the OEM speakers to capture the exact size and mounting holes so i wouldn't have to drill anything. On the backside of the MDF rings, i placed a strip of high density weather foam to ensure a complete seal.
Old speaker
New Speaker
There are other threads that go over how remove door panel, run wires, and how to remove the radio facia so i did not take any pictures of me doing so.
But for my wires, I used Stinger HPM series 4g. Stinger 4000 series 4 channel RCAs. Stinger 8000 series 2 channel RCAs, Stinger hues holder, Stinger distribution block, and Monster 16g XLN speaker wire (They were sold out of stinger hahaha) which i ran to each speaker. I tapped into the acc (cig lighter) for my remote and then ran it to a relay, which is all behind the radio.
I maintained the factory head unit by taping into each speaker signal behind the head unit. I installed a basic rockford fosagte 4 channel high to low adapter. I plan on installing a JL cleansweep later when my wallet tells me i can. Unfortunately, i never wrote down the wire color or pin location for the speaker wires if you are looking to do the same. However, just remove the radio and remove the harness, simply cut away the "fuzzy tape" that is wrapped around the wires connected to the harness and you will notice that their are wires that are twisted together. each twisted pair leads to a speaker! those are your speaker wires! rule of thumb is that the lighter colored wire is the negative. if my memory serves me correctly, one of the twisted pairs is an off white and brownish color, that leads to the passenger front door. so, if you are just installing a single sub, that would be the how to locate the audio signal. but make sure you check polarity incase your positive and negative are swapped. Just look for the twisted wires.
My poor V isn't looking very clean right now
I cutout a piece of 1/2" MDF that matched the shape under the seat. since it is the Base V, I did not have an amp, you can remove the OEM amp if you tap into the speaker signal at that location. I utilized the factory bolts sticking up where the factory amp would be and bolted my amp rack to those bolts. I simply counter sunk the holes, wrapped it in black carpet, placed a washed under the bolt and screwed it right in! I did this for both seats since I will be using two amps.
Once each amp rack was cut, wrapped and mounted, then I screwed in each amplifier and hooked up all the wires
The JL XD400/4 along side my stinger distribution block
and the JL G1700
If you are wondering, this amp is a few years old (got it in 2008), bought this when i got my JL 12w3v3. I would love for my amps to match, but it works great, doesn't even get warm, and it fits under the seat!
And for the Subwoofer: JL 12w3v3
the subwoofer installed in the box, and the installed in the car. I forgot to mention, the box is mounted to the truck by removing the tie down hooks and and screwing into the factory tie down hook's bolt location. The box is just shy of 1.25 cubic feet, so i packed some polly fill inside. lastly, 10g stinger pro OFC cable is wired in the box. I think I mentioned everything!
