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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone,

I'm new to the forums but have been browsing for some time now. Some of you may have seen me in the Facebook groups and know a little of this story. Some intro below:

I'm the 1st owner of a 2016 Forte5 SX with 24k miles, with the following mods: SXTH Tune, SXTH Intake, SXTH FMIC with HKS bov, HKS 45 plugs, dual oil catch cans, Tork catless downpipe, upgraded mac solenoid, upgraded MAP sensor, TB coolant bypass, 60 mm TB. Oil changed every 3k miles, PCV valve changed around 18k.

About 3k miles ago my head gasket blew by cylinder 1, and when that happened I remember coolant temps creeped up and up and got to 250F+ and the thermostat gauge climbed up. I sent my car to KDM Tuners to get it fixed, and came back with new head gasket, ARP studs, and the TB coolant bypass. The head was machined and checked for cracks during that process. When I got the car back I experienced a slow coolant leak and kept having to top off the coolant overflow reservoir every couple of weeks. After finding the leak with a radiator pressure test kit (two small coolant hoses were dripping, one going to or from the oil cooler, and another one by the engine block near the intake), the hoses were re-tightened with new clamps and no more leaks.

Now to the issue I've been having ever since the head gasket blew - my engine coolant temperature easily spikes to 220-230F if I boost it while driving on the freeway or continuously push it in the city. Here's a log I took of combined highway and city driving with a few pulls. Note the coolant temperatures! They come back down pretty quick after the pulls.

https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529476433?log=0&data=4-6-10

Now here's what I've already tried doing: burped the car multiple times, coolant flush (using Mishimoto Liquid Chill synthetic coolant), more burp, stock and koyo radiator caps (coolant temp spikes happens with either). Plugs have been checked and look good, engine has a brand new set of ignition coilpacks. I'm flashing the car back to stock soon while we figure this out.

I'd appreciate any insight from the community.

Thanks!

EDIT: Forgot to mention my car seems to be pulling timing very often due to these hot temps, leading to lack of power.
 

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Sounds like the water pump needs to be replaced, since it doesn’t seem to be flowing enough under heavy load. Might as well throw in a colder (160°F) thermostat at the same time.

Could also be the fan, but again since the system is performing “ok” under “normal” driving conditions, I’d replace the water pump since you’ve done nearly everything else.
 

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Be 100% sure coolant is full and no leaks. Run heat on high for 10-15 mins after you get up to operating temp.

What do temps range at idle parked? What speeds were these logs taken? What ambient temp? What coolant? What thermostat is in the car? Auto or manual? Recent compression and leakdown tests?
Any smoke or abnormal smell from exhaust? Any more coolant loss?
With info so far and looking at the log, the issue is a combo of tune and FMIC blocking the radiator.

Ambient hot, iat hot, speeds are slower, fan not working, oil temps are hot, ATF is hot, poor coolant used, air in the system, dirty coolant system, etc will all make things worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
100% no coolant leaks since those two hoses were re-tightened. Using Mishimoto Liquid Chill, stock thermostat is in (I believe 180F), auto transmission. Oil is Motul Xcess 5W-40. Test from the log was done at ambient air temperature around 72F, and intake air temperature around 87F.

One thing that was suspected was worn rings or ringland on cylinder 1 while the car was getting the head gasket fixed. Since the head gasket issue was just a small bubble, we suspected the car had bad rings in that piston even before the incident. About a month ago I did a dry and cold compression test and got this Cyl 1: 115 psi, Cyl 2: 130 psi, Cyl 3: 120 psi, Cyl 4: 130 psi. This is also paired with some white smoke/steam that comes out of the oil cap if I open it after running the car for a bit.

At idle my coolant temps are good, usually stays around 183-190F. Even with my cold air intake extension, my intake air temps will creep to 120-140F if sitting for too long, which leads me to believe my engine bay is getting warmer than it used to, and that heat is being absorbed by the intake manifold, pipes, and TB. The thermostat gauge has never gone above the halfway mark during these 220-230F coolant spikes. The only time that happened was when the head gasket went.

IMPORTANT: another issue I have is at WOT close to reaching rev limiter around 6-6.3k mainly in 2nd gear, I'll get machine gun pops that last maybe half a second. I've heard these can be knocks, backfiring, or misfires. I don't know what it is, but it seems similar to an issue I saw a member of the forums, Knox, also experience.
 

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100% no coolant leaks since those two hoses were re-tightened. Using Mishimoto Liquid Chill, stock thermostat is in (I believe 180F), auto transmission. Oil is Motul Xcess 5W-40. Test from the log was done at ambient air temperature around 72F, and intake air temperature around 87F.

One thing that was suspected was worn rings or ringland on cylinder 1 while the car was getting the head gasket fixed. Since the head gasket issue was just a small bubble, we suspected the car had bad rings in that piston even before the incident. About a month ago I did a dry and cold compression test and got this Cyl 1: 115 psi, Cyl 2: 130 psi, Cyl 3: 120 psi, Cyl 4: 130 psi. This is also paired with some white smoke/steam that comes out of the oil cap if I open it after running the car for a bit.

At idle my coolant temps are good, usually stays around 183-190F. Even with my cold air intake extension, my intake air temps will creep to 120-140F if sitting for too long, which leads me to believe my engine bay is getting warmer than it used to, and that heat is being absorbed by the intake manifold, pipes, and TB. The thermostat gauge has never gone above the halfway mark during these 220-230F coolant spikes. The only time that happened was when the head gasket went.

IMPORTANT: another issue I have is at WOT close to reaching rev limiter around 6-6.3k mainly in 2nd gear, I'll get machine gun pops that last maybe half a second. I've heard these can be knocks, backfiring, or misfires. I don't know what it is, but it seems similar to an issue I saw a member of the forums, Knox, also experience.
Load stock tune in there first. Add kr cyl 1-4 pids, speed, ATF temp, and cvvt temp to the log. Get a log of extended idle to see how high ECT gets to along with mixed normal driving and some WOT pulls. Also try to do at least 5 mins or so in cruise control at like 60 mph in D.

It would be cheap insurance and wise to install a 160°F thermostat in the car. Especially being an auto, a forte, and making more heat from more power.

Before that install I would run a 50/50 mix of CLR and distilled water for a 15-20 min drive, followed by a good flush of distilled water, then fill with coolant of choice after replacing the thermostat.

The compression test does seem to point to an issue in cyl 1 and maybe cyl 3. Have you done a leak down on it?

Post a clear close up pic of plugs if you can for each cyl. Also while they're out, measure the gap on each then gap them all to .024".

The iat sitting is normal for heat soak. All you can do to minimize that is heat reduction and venting mods.

The issue up top at wot could be many things. Catch it on a log would help. It could be fuel starvation, spark blowout, or misfire/knock, etc.
 

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While I understand the importance of doing all that logging and testing, I’d also want to be 100% sure the water pump is functioning optimally before getting down into the weeds. A water pump is like 80-100 bucks and a 160°F t-stat is less than 10 bucks.

If the problem remains after replacing those components, then do the logging and testing rigamarole to further diagnose.
 

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A good log is needed with all data while on a stock tune to get a good sense of what's going on in different conditions to determine if things are looking "normal". Enough is seen in log posted to determine that the water pump is 100% ok. Plus chance of a water pump going out is very very low.

OP needs to clean coolant system, install the colder thermostat, measure plug gaps, post pics of plugs, and regap as suggested, regardless of issues or not as it will only help the car, plus cheap and easy to do.

After the clean and thermostat swap another log can be done to see any changes. At which point it will be easier to determine the problem with more data collected.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies. I will be pulling out the HKS 45 plugs today and post a picture of each one and the corresponding cylinder. I also want to redo a compression test tonight, dry and wet. After that I'll tighten the plug gaps and put them back in.

I was thinking it would be unlikely for the water pump to go out at just 24k miles, but who knows.

My tuning flashing equipment should get here in a couple of days. When that happens, I'll put the stock tune on along with my set of NGK 1422 plugs, and see how the car does.

I'll be ordering the 160F thermostat as I've seen that being recommended various times now in other posts as well. Like you said, trdtoy, it would be a good insurance to have it on.

After the stock tune is on, if these problems are still present, I will most likely take the car to a radiator shop and have them look at my cooling system. Also give them the thermostat and ask for it to be installed. I've read somewhere that I could have a sticky thermostat, what do you think?

I'll keep posting updates as we move forward on this.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I will be pulling out the HKS 45 plugs today and post a picture of each one and the corresponding cylinder. I also want to redo a compression test tonight, dry and wet. After that I'll tighten the plug gaps and put them back in.

I was thinking it would be unlikely for the water pump to go out at just 24k miles, but who knows.

My tuning flashing equipment should get here in a couple of days. When that happens, I'll put the stock tune on along with my set of NGK 1422 plugs, and see how the car does.

I'll be ordering the 160F thermostat as I've seen that being recommended various times now in other posts as well. Like you said, trdtoy, it would be a good insurance to have it on.

After the stock tune is on, if these problems are still present, I will most likely take the car to a radiator shop and have them look at my cooling system. Also give them the thermostat and ask for it to be installed. I've read somewhere that I could have a sticky thermostat, what do you think?

I'll keep posting updates as we move forward on this.
Be sure to post measurement of each plug gap as well before tightening them up.

Do not put 1422's in the car. HKS 45 are better plugs if you have them already.

The thermostat is worth it for sure. 5 whp for less than $10. Plus makes any tune safer to run and can tune for more power with it in place.

If you can't do the install have someone qualified to do it for sure. Clean the system out if it's not too costly. Sticking thermostat is not likely but possible.
 

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The HKS plugs are much more durable. I wouldn’t rely on 1422s for backup plugs. Throw them away or donate them to a Forte owner you are not fond of.

Not going to harp on the water pump anymore. I’m sure it will last forever, especially when being exposed to low fluid levels during leaks and high temps when the head gasket blew and now when being pushed.

 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
HKS 45 plugs have been regapped to 0.024. Before doing so, the gaps were: Cyl 1 0.028 in, Cyl 2 0.028 in, Cyl 3 0.028 in, Cyl 4 0.030 in.

Compression test results:

Cyl 1: 115 psi dry, 145 psi wet
Cyl 2: 142 psi dry, 155 psi wet
Cyl 3: 125 psi dry, 145 psi wet
Cyl 4: 130 psi dry, 150 psi wet

Here's a new log with freeway and city driving, IAT around 87F, OAT around 72F. Engine coolant temperatures still reached 220F+.

https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529550351?log=0&data=8-18


Pics of spark plugs:
Cyl 1: https://imgur.com/a/bCrCCNY
Cyl 2: https://imgur.com/a/BJiuFY0
Cyl 3: https://imgur.com/a/NJydcbT
Cyl 4: https://imgur.com/a/6AFOtbj

EDIT: the pinging/machine gun popping still happened on some pulls
 

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QUOTE=krypton990;657608]HKS 45 plugs have been regapped to 0.024. Before doing so, the gaps were: Cyl 1 0.028 in, Cyl 2 0.028 in, Cyl 3 0.028 in, Cyl 4 0.030 in.

Compression test results:

Cyl 1: 115 psi dry, 145 psi wet
Cyl 2: 142 psi dry, 155 psi wet
Cyl 3: 125 psi dry, 145 psi wet
Cyl 4: 130 psi dry, 150 psi wet

Here's a new log with freeway and city driving, IAT around 87F, OAT around 72F. Engine coolant temperatures still reached 220F+.

https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529550351?log=0&data=8-18


Pics of spark plugs:
Cyl 1: https://imgur.com/a/bCrCCNY
Cyl 2: https://imgur.com/a/BJiuFY0
Cyl 3: https://imgur.com/a/NJydcbT
Cyl 4: https://imgur.com/a/6AFOtbj

EDIT: the pinging/machine gun popping still happened on some pulls[/QUOTE]

Plugs look good from what I can tell in the pics.

Compression off more than I'd like to see.

Coolant temps are high due to high avg rpm. This drives cat temps, ATF, and CVVT oil temp all high. This heat soaks everything making it more misfire prone as well. Stock thermostat and poor ambient air flow to the radiator do not help things. May also not have the fan on the radiator coming on at all or on high when ECT reaches 203-205 area.

The amount of KR on all cylinders concerns me. So does the car idling below stoich for some reason. The boost/load spikes as well.

Get a log of at least 5-10 mins at 60 mph highway cruise control. Want to see if temps stabilize anywhere or not. Then pull over and let it idle to see if it gets to the 210-220+ area. Also once nearing 203 see if the radiator fan goes into high speed or not.

Also check to be sure your coolant is full and you're not losing any. Also be sure your engine belt is tight on the car.

The car ran fine and did not do this before the hg went right? These issues started after the hg was replaced, studded, and head was machined? Any details on that?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Plugs look good from what I can tell in the pics.

Compression off more than I'd like to see.

Coolant temps are high due to high avg rpm. This drives cat temps, ATF, and CVVT oil temp all high. This heat soaks everything making it more misfire prone as well. Stock thermostat and poor ambient air flow to the radiator do not help things. May also not have the fan on the radiator coming on at all or on high when ECT reaches 203-205 area.

The amount of KR on all cylinders concerns me. So does the car idling below stoich for some reason. The boost/load spikes as well.

Get a log of at least 5-10 mins at 60 mph highway cruise control. Want to see if temps stabilize anywhere or not. Then pull over and let it idle to see if it gets to the 210-220+ area. Also once nearing 203 see if the radiator fan goes into high speed or not.

Also check to be sure your coolant is full and you're not losing any. Also be sure your engine belt is tight on the car.

The car ran fine and did not do this before the hg went right? These issues started after the hg was replaced, studded, and head was machined? Any details on that?
A note I forgot to add is that the compression test was done on a cold engine. Coolant has been checked after almost every drive and the top level on the coolant overflow tank has been consistent, so I don't think there's a coolant leak at this point anymore. I'll check the engine belts.

After I did the coolant flush a few days ago I checked that the fan came on, and around 205F it was kicking. Put my hand behind it and could feel the mass of air it was moving. I'll check it again when pulling over on the new highway 60 mph test you suggested.

One thing I notice is my idle vacuum is low sometimes, and always fluctuates by around +- 1 in/Hg at an idle. This lower than usual vacuum a while ago (before head gasket went) caused my BOV to pop a 'P2261: Turbo/Super Charger Bypass Valve - Mechanical'. Since then I've been running a vacuum tank tee'd off the intake manifold vacuum - both feeding into the intake side of the solenoid. Without the tank on the stock solenoid, I do get the P2261, like there's not enough pressure differential to open the BOV at low boost.

Is it possible a vacuum leak somewhere can be causing issues like these? I've done a test for boost leaks by spraying soapy water on line/pipe connections, retightened clamps, etc, didn't find anything.

Now that you mention boost/load spikes, it's one thing I've been noticing as well. Say I'm in 3rd gear and go from light throttle to maybe even less than half throttle, sometimes my boost goes all the way up to the 22 psi range but it's not like I'm feeling that power. It still accelerates, but not like when you're hitting that boost by building into WOT if that makes sense...

Before the head gasket went I don't recall my temperatures going above 220F. On hot runs the hottest it would get would be around 212. But also, the head gasket job was the first time my cooling system was opened since I got the car brand new. I'm guilty to say that before that repair, my coolant had not been replaced since getting the car, my radiator never cleaned, etc. That'll also be on the to-do list now to see if there's any obstructions causing ineffectiveness of the radiator.


I'll take the highway log on cruise control tomorrow. Before I saw your post, I logged a quick night drive to get food. Take a look: https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529561671?log=0&data=4-5-6-7-10-12-14-17-18

https://imgur.com/a/m0yJH7R

I thought the coolant temperature "cycles" between 190-205F were interesting to see with the car idling at the drive-thru. Before the idling, I didn't go into boost intentionally on the drive. After the idling, you can see some KR. There's only one WOT area in this log, shown in the picture. One thing I've noticed from the two KR zones before the WOT pull, is that right around when KR spikes up, my AFR goes to 15-15.3. Now I don't know whether a small increase like that in AFR would lead to the knock/detonation or be a result of knock/detonation.

And like you said, I've also noticed my AFR being low 14's or high 13's on some idles, as well as holding a stoichiometric 14.7.

EDIT: The more I look at this log the more I see AFR in the mid 14 even when boost is around 10 psi.
 

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Depends on how the tune was configured. The default values for some fueling maps have built-in latency regarding how quickly the ECM adds more fuel in response to moderate/heavy throttle. We try to reduce this latency as much as possible while still giving the ECM enough calculation time to adjust fuel appropriately according to throttle input.

The goal is to get the ECM to pseudo-predict increased bursts of added fuel sooner to minimize LSPI-prone conditions and prevent misfires/knock, but this also depends on how much ethanol is in the fuel.

On some others’ tunes, we have seen thresholds and lambdas set too high in the low-mid RPM range, which is what the factory tune does to a fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Depends on how the tune was configured. The default values for some fueling maps have built-in latency regarding how quickly the ECM adds more fuel in response to moderate/heavy throttle. We try to reduce this latency as much as possible while still giving the ECM enough calculation time to adjust fuel appropriately according to throttle input.

The goal is to get the ECM to pseudo-predict increased bursts of added fuel sooner to minimize LSPI-prone conditions and prevent misfires/knock, but this also depends on how much ethanol is in the fuel.

On some others’ tunes, we have seen thresholds and lambdas set too high in the low-mid RPM range, which is what the factory tune does to a fault.
Is it possible that my MAP sensor has gone bad and is giving me these issues? In the past log I started to notice that even with some boost, the AFR would be near stoich. Is it possible this is leading to hot spots in the cylinders and that's why my coolant is spiking under boost? Fuel mileage is also lower than what it used to be. Bad cam sensor or crank sensor?

EDIT: Looking over these logs I keep seeing commanded AFR at 14.7 and measured AFR around 14-14.2 even with boost at 18-22 psi. Lines up with when the knocks are detected.
 

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Since you upgraded the MAP sensor, swapping with the BPS on the IC probably won’t make a difference. You could remove the MAP sensor and see if there’s any oil coating the probe and if so, wipe it clean.

The other sensors mentioned probably are good, as if they were faulty you’d be getting DTCs for voltage or significant misfiring causing it to run/idle rough or weird rev sticking behavior.

Pretty sure SXTH normally has WOT fueling activation threshold set to ~50% throttle. We set ours below 30% to accomplish what I described in my previous post.

Let’s see what trdtoy has to say...

(Edit in response to your edit) Lambda/AFR should not be nearly that high with that much boost; too much boost (and too much timing, FWIW) with inadequate fueling causes temps to skyrocket (and misfiring/knock as you’ve seen).

Another quick test to do is to write the factory tune back and see if the problem continues or remediates itself.
 

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A note I forgot to add is that the compression test was done on a cold engine. Coolant has been checked after almost every drive and the top level on the coolant overflow tank has been consistent, so I don't think there's a coolant leak at this point anymore. I'll check the engine belts.

After I did the coolant flush a few days ago I checked that the fan came on, and around 205F it was kicking. Put my hand behind it and could feel the mass of air it was moving. I'll check it again when pulling over on the new highway 60 mph test you suggested.

One thing I notice is my idle vacuum is low sometimes, and always fluctuates by around +- 1 in/Hg at an idle. This lower than usual vacuum a while ago (before head gasket went) caused my BOV to pop a 'P2261: Turbo/Super Charger Bypass Valve - Mechanical'. Since then I've been running a vacuum tank tee'd off the intake manifold vacuum - both feeding into the intake side of the solenoid. Without the tank on the stock solenoid, I do get the P2261, like there's not enough pressure differential to open the BOV at low boost.

Is it possible a vacuum leak somewhere can be causing issues like these? I've done a test for boost leaks by spraying soapy water on line/pipe connections, retightened clamps, etc, didn't find anything.

Now that you mention boost/load spikes, it's one thing I've been noticing as well. Say I'm in 3rd gear and go from light throttle to maybe even less than half throttle, sometimes my boost goes all the way up to the 22 psi range but it's not like I'm feeling that power. It still accelerates, but not like when you're hitting that boost by building into WOT if that makes sense...

Before the head gasket went I don't recall my temperatures going above 220F. On hot runs the hottest it would get would be around 212. But also, the head gasket job was the first time my cooling system was opened since I got the car brand new. I'm guilty to say that before that repair, my coolant had not been replaced since getting the car, my radiator never cleaned, etc. That'll also be on the to-do list now to see if there's any obstructions causing ineffectiveness of the radiator.


I'll take the highway log on cruise control tomorrow. Before I saw your post, I logged a quick night drive to get food. Take a look: https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529561671?log=0&data=4-5-6-7-10-12-14-17-18

https://imgur.com/a/m0yJH7R

I thought the coolant temperature "cycles" between 190-205F were interesting to see with the car idling at the drive-thru. Before the idling, I didn't go into boost intentionally on the drive. After the idling, you can see some KR. There's only one WOT area in this log, shown in the picture. One thing I've noticed from the two KR zones before the WOT pull, is that right around when KR spikes up, my AFR goes to 15-15.3. Now I don't know whether a small increase like that in AFR would lead to the knock/detonation or be a result of knock/detonation.

And like you said, I've also noticed my AFR being low 14's or high 13's on some idles, as well as holding a stoichiometric 14.7.

EDIT: The more I look at this log the more I see AFR in the mid 14 even when boost is around 10 psi.
Add LTFT B1S1 and STFT B1S2 to the pid list and clear codes with torque app before the next log.

Temps look better here but mostly due to the way the car is being driven.

ECT looks normal at idle meaning things are working as they should here.

With afr measured being off from commanded at times like that can mean fueling issue, leak somewhere, or sensor/wiring issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529638359

I took a new log. Cold start in the beginning, then a little of city driving until getting on the freeway. Cruise control at around 64 mph, then pulled over. Engine coolant temperature slowly climbed, and as soon as it reached 203F the fan kicked on, brought it down to 190s, then climbed again to 203, fan kicked on, etc. After idling I had to boost to get up to speed on the freeway, took an exit, more city driving with stop lights. Repeated some freeway driving on cruise control, but this time since the engine was already warm I didn't have as low of temperatures. Back to city driving after that.

AFR is definitely an issue here, it would stay around 14 even when building some boost (like 5-10 psi) when taking off from some lights, followed by the coolant temperature increasing.

My tune flashing hardware should arrive by the beginning of next week, so we'll see what happens on the stock tune to help rule things out.

EDIT: I just noticed that for the whole duration of my idle on the side of the freeway I had a high KR on cyl 3...

EDIT 2: I tracked O2 sensor voltages in another run - notice how O2 sensor 1's voltage is stuck at one value. Might be time to check that. https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529650152?log=0&data=7-19-20-24
 

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https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529638359

I took a new log. Cold start in the beginning, then a little of city driving until getting on the freeway. Cruise control at around 64 mph, then pulled over. Engine coolant temperature slowly climbed, and as soon as it reached 203F the fan kicked on, brought it down to 190s, then climbed again to 203, fan kicked on, etc. After idling I had to boost to get up to speed on the freeway, took an exit, more city driving with stop lights. Repeated some freeway driving on cruise control, but this time since the engine was already warm I didn't have as low of temperatures. Back to city driving after that.

AFR is definitely an issue here, it would stay around 14 even when building some boost (like 5-10 psi) when taking off from some lights, followed by the coolant temperature increasing.

My tune flashing hardware should arrive by the beginning of next week, so we'll see what happens on the stock tune to help rule things out.

EDIT: I just noticed that for the whole duration of my idle on the side of the freeway I had a high KR on cyl 3...

EDIT 2: I tracked O2 sensor voltages in another run - notice how O2 sensor 1's voltage is stuck at one value. Might be time to check that. https://datazap.me/u/krypton990/log-1529650152?log=0&data=7-19-20-24
Log 1:

Everything looks normal for initial highway drive and the idle period following(other than the KR at idle). Once things heat soak is when the KR happens most so we know it's heat related as a trigger. Also after that idle and heat soak period the temps do not come back down at speed. This is not normal for what I've seen in any VT but we have better air flow to the radiator than you do as well. May want to see how cars with similar mods compare here. Cooling mods should be a must for you regardless though.

Log 2:

Not sure what that sensor 1 v pid norm is. Will check on my car later. Sensor 2 is fine though.

Fuel trims are fine for the most part in both logs but some areas could point to a potential issue. Worth keeping an eye on.

Once you get the stock tune in it repeat the same as in the last logs and we can compare.
 
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