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No smoke, but runs smoother.

Today I did the CRC treatment. Sprayed the whole can into the intake at just inside the air box; revved it three times to 3500rpm, idled for a minute, shut down and waited for the hour long heat-soak. No perceptible smoke at start up. Drove at 4000 rpm in 4th for 25 miles, at 70 mph.

It runs a lot smoother at idle, can't even hear it through the Borla at a stop light.

I'm thinking my monthly "Italian Tune-Up" (4000 rpm in 4th gear at 70mph for 40 miles); my 3000 mile oil changes with filter and Pennzoil Platinum; my use of Shell 93 V-power since new; and 4 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in each fuel fill-up, (and 6 0z. into each oil-fill), combined with never "lugging" the engine, (i.e., downshifting whenever below 2500 rpm at any road speed), have combined to keep any oil vapors from accumulating in a significant way into carbon deposits.

My original plugs, pulled at 41000 miles, didn't even need cleaning. I'm keeping them in the trunk as spares. (Using Densos now).

I'm thinking that automatics on these cars allow way too much operation under load at under 2000 rpm. Same with stick shift drivers who upshift when the light tells them to. It's load under such low engine speeds which is the source of LSPD, which in turn must surely contribute to carbon deposits.

I am pleasantly surprised. Love this car.
 

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Pennzoil Platinum; Marvel Mystery Oil in each fuel fill-up, (and 6 0z. into each oil-fill), combined with never "lugging" the engine, (i.e., downshifting whenever below 2500 rpm at any road speed), have combined to keep any oil vapors from accumulating in a significant way into carbon deposits.

My original plugs, pulled at 41000 miles, didn't even need cleaning. I'm keeping them in the trunk as spares. (Using Densos now).
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Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum or Pennzoil Platinum?

I've always wondered about Marvel Mystery Oil due to it always having some sort of oil residue at the cap or on the shelves in it area, like it seeps through its container somehow wtf?

Let us know how those Densos hold up.

Best way to confirm if carbon buildup is accumulating is by getting a cheap borescope to see further down the rabbit hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum or Pennzoil Platinum?

I've always wondered about Marvel Mystery Oil due to it always having some sort of oil residue at the cap or on the shelves in it area, like it seeps through its container somehow wtf?

Let us know how those Densos hold up.

Best way to confirm if carbon buildup is accumulating is by getting a cheap borescope to see further down the rabbit hole.


Thanks for the comment! Will let you know about the Denso. Holding up well so far. And, after two days since the CRC treatment, My on-ramp accelerations going to work are noticeably stronger. So, I DID clean some carbon out, but it obviously hadn't been 'caked' on in significant amounts.

Do you put the borescope down the spark plug hole,or do I have to disconnect the intake runners in front of the block?

I don't use/can't find the Ultra Pennzoil, but since I'm not tuned, and after reading the labels, I don't see the difference justifying the hassle of ordering it when I only pay $22 at Walmart for the regular Platinum Plus.
 

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Just received my CRC treatment today. Hopefully the improvements are noticeable. I haven't looked up the Hyundai video I think they have, but are you guys spraying it into the intake pipe itself, or the throttle body?
 

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No smoke, but runs smoother.

Today I did the CRC treatment. Sprayed the whole can into the intake at just inside the air box; revved it three times to 3500rpm, idled for a minute, shut down and waited for the hour long heat-soak. No perceptible smoke at start up. Drove at 4000 rpm in 4th for 25 miles, at 70 mph.

It runs a lot smoother at idle, can't even hear it through the Borla at a stop light.

I'm thinking my monthly "Italian Tune-Up" (4000 rpm in 4th gear at 70mph for 40 miles); my 3000 mile oil changes with filter and Pennzoil Platinum; my use of Shell 93 V-power since new; and 4 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in each fuel fill-up, (and 6 0z. into each oil-fill), combined with never "lugging" the engine, (i.e., downshifting whenever below 2500 rpm at any road speed), have combined to keep any oil vapors from accumulating in a significant way into carbon deposits.

My original plugs, pulled at 41000 miles, didn't even need cleaning. I'm keeping them in the trunk as spares. (Using Densos now).

I'm thinking that automatics on these cars allow way too much operation under load at under 2000 rpm. Same with stick shift drivers who upshift when the light tells them to. It's load under such low engine speeds which is the source of LSPD, which in turn must surely contribute to carbon deposits.

I am pleasantly surprised. Love this car.
How did you do with the crc, and videos on how to do it, I have a 16 turbo
 

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About to do another CRC treatment. As the instructions indicate it should be sprayed in just before the throttle body. I have a question......Isn't the throttle body behind the engine back by the firewall? How do I access it? From underneath? Can't even see it from up top/
 

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WOW! thanks.
Is this at the front or the rear of the engine? Is the brake vacuum line at the firewall toward the driver side? Thinking of putting it in there.
 

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I’m not spoon feeding someone who, after seeing your introduction thread boasting of vast vehicle experience, should have no trouble locating the TB.

Study the first picture again and note the proximity of the adjacent components. Poke your head around the engine bay and figure it out.

Use the EVAP fitting on the TB to inject the fluid into. Hopefully you don’t blow a head gasket like a previous owner did.
 

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About to do another CRC treatment. As the instructions indicate it should be sprayed in just before the throttle body. I have a question......Isn't the throttle body behind the engine back by the firewall? How do I access it? From underneath? Can't even see it from up top/
It's pretty much right in front of your face when you open the hood. Just look straight down and to the right slightly.

I have a can of CRC sitting on a shelf I never got around to using. I think I'll finally give it a go.
 

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It's pretty much right in front of your face when you open the hood. Just look straight down and to the right slightly.

I have a can of CRC sitting on a shelf I never got around to using. I think I'll finally give it a go.
Can you record it if posible, don’t want to make a mistake lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Administered the CRC treatment into the throttle body. Thanks for the help, it actually was easier to find than I first thought. Lot of smoke during the two 3500 revs after emptying the can. Idled for one minute, shut down to heat soak for an hour. Negligible smoke on start up, smoke was gone within half a mile. Runs nice and smooth after the 40 mile drive at 4000 rpm. I think I'm gonna do it at every other oil change from now on.

Thanks again for everyone's help!
 
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Let me just go ahead and say you are wasting time and money using any of these cleaners. They simply aren't strong enough to remove the carbon buildup on the intake valves. It took a combination of brake cleaner and walnut blasting to get my intake valves clean. Even after all that they aren't perfect. Check out the before and after pics. Buy a Depstech wireless endoscope on Ebay. You can remove the map sensor and go in through there feeding the endoscope up the intake manifold. Cylinders 2 and 3 are easy to get at. 1 and 4 are a challenge but doable.
 

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Amen @Clw

The walnut blasting isn't too hard, and man did it a make a big difference in response and power.
 

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what a difference!!
 

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Today I did the CRC treatment. Sprayed the whole can into the intake at just inside the air box; revved it three times to 3500rpm, idled for a minute, shut down and waited for the hour long heat-soak. No perceptible smoke at start up. Drove at 4000 rpm in 4th for 25 miles, at 70 mph.
LOL sounds like your first can went down the j-pipe, into the turbo, coated the intercooler and then may have made it into the manifold.

You might want to flush your intercooler out now that it's covered in crap on the inside and therefore a lot less efficient in heat transfer.
 
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