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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a work in progress, I will try to update and add better images later.

I am sure if you are reading this you are interested in upgrading your front brakes to 4 piston Brembo calipers and almost 14” rotors. Here is how to do it for around $500.



I have pieced together brake upgrades from other cars in the past and have been looking into it for my Veloster for a while now. Unfortunately, there is not a very large community of Veloster DIYers out there and almost no shared information. I have seen mentions of big brake kits that could be pieced together and decided to give it a go. This post provides what I learned as I built my kit out.

First thing I will mention is that the most difficult part may be fitting your wheel/tire combination. My goal was to not use spacers, but with spacers you can make most wheels fit. With that said, there will be a fairly narrow margin of spacing that fit over the caliper but don’t rub the fender. I will go over a bit below.

Parts list
Required Parts

2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Front Left Caliper - ACDelco 172-2287
2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Front Right Caliper - ACDelco 172-2288
2008-2015 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Front Brake Left and Right Rotors — Any Brand
2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Front Brake Pads or 2008-2015 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Front Brake Pads
2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Front Caliper Hardware Kit — ACDelco 18K1971X
Caliper Mounting Hardware — Grade 8, Qty4 - 7/16-14 x 1.5” Bolt, 7/16 Flat Washer, 7/16 Split Washer
Crush Washers — for 10mm Banjo Bolts
Brake Fluid (Your Choice)
Optional Parts
Braided Brake lines (Will provide a better feel)
Brake Bleeders - M10x1.0 35mm+ (I use an air powered bleeder which is even easier)
Wheel Spacers for Rotor alignment — Qty2, 3mm, 5x114.3, >67.1 Hub. (Down and Dirty Method Only)
Wheel Spacers for Caliper Clearance — Depends on your wheels

Preparation
There are two methods I identified to make this setup work on the Veloster. I will call them the Preferred method and the Down and Dirty method. They both will work but the Down and Dirty method pushes your wheels out 3mm more reducing your margin for wheel fitment, doesn’t center the pads quite as well, and is a bit cheesier. With that said, it is cheaper, completely bolt-on and quicker. I have done things much cheesier than this. ��

Preferred Method
Before installing your calipers, you will need to take them to your local machine shop and ask them to machine the mounting surfaces down. This should not take more than 1hr of shop time to do both, typically $70-$100hr, I paid $80. Tell them you want 3.5mm removed from the surface. Since this is slightly deeper than the back of the caliper, you will need about 9.5mm of clearance from mounting hole or 15mm from center.




Preferred Method and Down and Dirty Method
Swap the brake bleeders with the cross-over line. Remove the brake bleeders and the cross-over line, install the bleeders in the holes the cross-over line came out of and install the cross-over line in the holes the bleeders came out of.
Use the correct tools or you will strip the cross-over line. I believe the cross-over line is 10mm but it is oversized with paint and pretty tight. You can remove the paint and use a 10mm line wrench or do like I did and carefully use a Knipex Pliers Wrench. The OEM bleeders are 7/16”, use a 7/16” wrench.





Installation
The installation steps are the same for both the Preferred and Down and Dirty methods except one step which will be mentioned later.

Removal
1. Remove the Front wheel
2. Squeeze and remove the clip holding the speed sensor wire retainer from the brake line support (Needle nose pliers)
3. Remove the bolt holding the brake line support (12mm socket)
4. Remove the bolt holding the speed sensor support (10mm socket)

5. Remove the two bolts holding caliper to the caliper mounting bracket (14mm socket)
6. Remove the caliper by sliding it away from the rotor
7. Remove the brake line banjo bolt from the caliper
8. Drain the caliper and brake line into a catch container
9. Remove the two bolts securing the caliper mounting bracket (17mm socket)


10. Using a Philips impact driver, remove the two rotor hold down screws (Philips Impact)
11. Slide the rotor off of the hub

Install
1. (Down and Dirty Method Only) Install a 3mm wheel spacer onto the hub

2. Slide the new rotor onto the hub (no need to screw down, the wheel will hold it)
3. Bolt the Caliper to the mounting bracket with two each; 7/16-14 bolt, split washer and flat washer. (5/8” socket)

4. Install the brake line support bracket with one bolt (12mm socket)
5. Install the speed sensor support bracket with one bolt (10mm socket)
6. Clip the speed sensor wire retainer into the brake line support bracket

7. Install the brake line with the banjo bolt and new crush washers to the caliper
8. Install brake pads with the caliper mounting hardware
9. Repeat steps for the caliper on the other side of the car
10. Bleed Brakes on the entire car

Wheels
These new calipers require quite a bit of clearance not to hit the wheel spokes. Stock 2016 ET54 wheels require about 25mm of spacer to clear. This pushes the tires pretty close to the fender.
I am currently running EVO X wheels which are 18x8.5 ET38 with 235/40R18 Tires. These wheels clear the front caliper with room to spare, but slightly rub in the rear on large bumps. I will add just a bit more camber to hopefully take care of that.


Parts I bought
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-172-2287-Front-New-Brake-Caliper-Left/292007292550?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-172-2288-Front-New-Brake-Caliper-Right/292017412947?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I purchased these during an eBay 15% off sale. Total was 250.71.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B0BXCYO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon does crazy stuff with their pricing, I paid $45.36.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029QCZRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Brembo used this design on a lot of different cars. This is a good set for the street. $30.68.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A5151E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Many brands make this, this is a common caliper design. Paid $13.88

Grade 8 Caliper mounting hardware was $1.50 ($3.39/lb) at Rural King

Other links
https://www.amazon.com/3mm-Wheel-Spacer-4x114-5x100/dp/B0069D60OC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525485474&sr=8-1&keywords=114+wheel+spacer+3mm
There are cheaper ones out there, make sure it is universal or have a hub diameter larger than 70mm

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-brakes-4474/brake-systems-16456/brake-hydraulics-16513/brake-caliper-12843/19450a0adab6/brakebest-unloaded-caliper/184902/4562347/2005/cadillac/cts?q=caliper&pos=2

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-brakes-4474/brake-systems-16456/brake-hydraulics-16513/brake-caliper-12843/19450a0adab6/brakebest-unloaded-caliper/184903/4562348/2005/cadillac/cts?q=caliper&pos=12




 

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Awesome job and write up. Even though I won't be doing the big brake up grade I'm glad I'll have the info needed just in case I change my mine.
 

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Would like to see a weight comparison between all replaced components and the factory components, but I’m sure it’s too late for that. Very well done, nonetheless.

Sone detective work done awhile back revealed other GM models use Brembos as well and are a bit cheaper (potentially lighter) than these. I’d want to do both front and rears, but this is far down on my to-do list.
 

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This is fantastic... and you ain't kidding about the veloster community lacking in info sharing on stuff like this. It's insane to a guy who grew up around cars and the only reason any of us knew anything at all was because we were all sharing our car war stories.
 

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I'm planing to use Piercemotorsports crossdrilled and slotted brake rotors for the rear with ceramic rear performance pads and Piercemotorsports stainless steel brake lines. I have already started collecting the piece I need to do this in the spring.
 

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I'm planing to use Piercemotorsports crossdrilled and slotted brake rotors for the rear with ceramic rear performance pads and Piercemotorsports stainless steel brake lines. I have already started collecting the piece I need to do this in the spring.
If we can’t get rear matching cts-v calipers
I’ll upgrade the rotors/pads too.
 

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I don't think I have seen anyone doing a cts-v rear brake yet, also the Brembo Big Brake Kit are front only. Which are the same as cts-v except for color and Brembo name both are a 4 Piston setup. The only one that I have seen with rear brake is the KSport.
 

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Hey there, first off, great write up and pictures. But why did you switch the bleeders and the crossover pipe? From what I can see now you can't bleed the system properly.
 

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I think it's because the Cadillac have the calibers on the back of the rotor (closer to the body of the car), while the Veloster has it's calibers in the front so the unit would be mounted upside down.
 

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Thanks for sharing this info. Seems like an awesome setup. I am curious about using CTS-V calipers in the rear just as someone else had mentioned. There is a set of CTS-V calipers and pads here locally for a decent price and if all I am missing is rotors and some hardware, I'll probably grab them. Has anyone done a rear setup yet that would be willing to share some details? If it is the same as the fronts, 3mm spacers and Evo X rotors, that seems easy enough.

And before anyone starts asking why, I'll say it is mostly for looks. Not a fan of the baby rotor look even if they are effective.
 

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Thanks for sharing this info. Seems like an awesome setup. I am curious about using CTS-V calipers in the rear just as someone else had mentioned. There is a set of CTS-V calipers and pads here locally for a decent price and if all I am missing is rotors and some hardware, I'll probably grab them. Has anyone done a rear setup yet that would be willing to share some details? If it is the same as the fronts, 3mm spacers and Evo X rotors, that seems easy enough.

And before anyone starts asking why, I'll say it is mostly for looks. Not a fan of the baby rotor look even if they are effective.
I just finished my fronts the other day.......Fuckin Awesomeness!!!
The problem I see with the rears is the E Brake.
It’s integrated into the rear caliper......buuut if you don’t want one I say do it.

I’m going to take some measurements this coming week and hopefully it’ll work.

And pics
I did not leave the 2 rotor screws on

DC9EDFF3-0C8C-4E3E-8B67-76D1EE8927EC.jpeg

645BA5BB-AD9E-4AA1-85B4-029BEFE16A17.jpeg

4E1175FA-A0E3-4D89-8B50-0F68FB9F257F.jpeg
 

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Just measured the rear mounting bracket
Center to Center is 4” (101.6mm)
The Brembo is 5”
I’m thinking the easiest thing to do is have a bracket
machined.......cause I can’t find calipers with 4” ctc
 
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