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Quick question about oil. I saw on Castrols website that the Castrol edge full synthetic is now designed for gdi engines to stop lspi. Would this be a better option than pup because it’s available in 5w30, 5w40, 5w50 and 0w40. Or should I just use pup 5w30?
 

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Better? No. Good enough? Should be, as long as it’s changed every 4800 kilometers.

There are less expensive SN Plus (anti-LSPI) oils such as AmazonBasics and Walmart SuperTech, both made by Warren Oil Co. Both tested very well in the Project Farm “oil championship” vid series on YouTube earlier this year.

AMSOIL beat PUP at the end, BTW.
 

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I don’t have a problem with using pup it’s just that Castrol edge is offered in more viscosities. Which viscosity would you recommend for a Canadian winter. Also I commute 900km a week plus whatever on top of that.
 

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I don’t have a problem with using pup it’s just that Castrol edge is offered in more viscosities. Which viscosity would you recommend for a Canadian winter. Also I commute 900km a week plus whatever on top of that.
I'm no where near as knowledge able as E9C900A, but I can share my experience as a fellow Canadian VT owner.

Since I bought my VT over 5 1/2 years ago, I have always run 5W-30 Full Synthetic (after break-in) though brand has varied. In that time I have lived in or near Edmonton, AB and have run the VT through -40°C many times. I have used a 6000 km OCI since the vast majority of my mileage is highway and have accumulated over 140,000 km on her.

Could I have done things better? I'm sure I could have... but my engine hasn't blown up... yet! ?

As for your commuting, I feel your pain! Not long ago, I was commuting 115km each way, 5 days a week for about 15 months. Had to do an oil change nearly every month! ?
 
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So i recently started misfiring driving through some back roads, and took it to the dealership to get the update and thought that could be the issue, which wasnt. Then checked the oil cap and saw no oil what so ever and didnt get a light either, so i did an emergency oil change. During that oil change i noticed specks of gold and silver around the pan and got a tune days later and switched to 93 octane. Also every once in awhile you could hear a loud tick around piston one. P0300 & P0301 still pops up on the scanner, so is it safe to say to take it to the shop to deal with?

MODS: INJEN CAI, TurboXS BOV, ISR down pipe, MBRP exhaust, Throttle body spacer, car is at 56.4K miles
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Update at dealer does not do much.

Normal to not see oil when removing the oil cap.

Normal to have some fine metal in the oil/oil pan.

All VT need to run higher octane pump gas.

What tune did you get?

What plugs and gaps?

Oem coils?

Miles on the coils and plugs?

Oem fuel line?

What year model and transmission?
 

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Wslcome to forum.

Update at dealer does not do much.

Normal to not see oil when removing the oil cap.

Normal to have some fine metal in the oil/oil pan.

All VT need to run higher octane pump gas.

What tune did you get?

What plugs and gaps?

Oem coils?

Miles on the coils and plugs?
i sent my ECU to http://www.sfrusa.com/SFR-ECU-Reflash-for-Veloster-Turbo_p_862.html
i only have about 10 miles on the autozone brand spark plugs because they didnt have NGK at the moment, and i havent changed the coil packs because they are pretty brand new from what ive diagnosed
 

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You need proper plugs for a tune which are HKS M45XL or NGK R2556G-9 or R2556B-9 and gap to .024".

You need proper oem coils ending in part number 2B110 if you're a 13-15 VT. 50k miles max change intervals.

You need a good tune thats safe for the car as well. SFR is bottom of the barrel tune in terms of safety and power gains.
 

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You need proper plugs for a tune which are HKS M45XL or NGK R2556G-9 or R2556B-9 and gap to .024".

You need proper oem coils ending in part number 2B110 if you're a 13-15 VT. 50k miles max change intervals.

You need a good tune thats safe for the car as well. SFR is bottom of the barrel tune in terms of safety and power gains.
got it ill be looking into these right now... as well as a tuner thanks for the help!!
 

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Qwik Tyme Performance or SXTH element engineering are the best.
 

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Diagnosing Possible Misfires – Veloster turbo
It seems that a common issue with the Veloster turbo are misfires. These misfires can be caused by a large number of reason but here I will try to address the most common problems, how to diagnose them, and how to fix them. Chances are if your VT is having a misfire issue you will notice it. You hit the gas pedal waiting for that turbo rush and all the sudden the car hiccups, stutters, and jerks. This is a saddening event. Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I do have many years of DIY experience with cars but am far from a professional. If you blow up your engine by misdiagnosing and incorrectly installing a part, that will lie with you.
I will do my best to update this post with new information, techniques, and maybe links to DIYs for some items as they become available. If you see anything in this that is either incorrect or misleading please PM me and I will make sure to correct it.

Symptoms
As stated above, if you feel sudden stuttering from the engine your car is more than likely misfiring. It is usually an obvious jerking (not to be confused with “the wave” that is commonly seen during partial throttle and is more attributed to the stock intake design and stock tune). You will also see your Check Engine Light blinking as the misfire is occurring.
Disclaimer: If this is your Youtube video, please PM me so I may give credit to you.

Possible Problems
The misfire can be caused by a number of different reasons, so let’s go through the list of common issues that have caused misfires and determine what exactly is happening in your case.

1) Fuel delivery. This is a design flaw with the low-pressure part of our fuel line that attaches to the high-pressure fuel pump under the hood. There has been a recall issued by Hyundai for certain VT’s, full details on this and a way to see if your car is affected by the recall may be found in this thread; VT Fuel Line Service Bulletin.​
a. Diagnosing. To find out if this is your issue you will need two things. An OBDII reader and some kind of logging software. The preferred reader is the OBDLink MX/LX, preferred software is Torque Pro for iPhone or Android, and either OBD Auto Doctor or Dash for Windows. Once you have these set up you will need to monitor your fuel pressure. If your fuel pressure is steady at 2200 psi then you are probably OK here. If it begins dipping below 2000 psi and steadily declines even though RPMs are going up then you will want to replace your fuel line.​
b. The Fix. To fix the fuel pressure problem you will need to replace your fuel line. Even if your car is not listed by Hyundai as a recalled vehicle, you still may need to fix it. There are various vendors that have created a replacement fuel lines that is leaps and bounds better than what is offered by Hyundai. A DIY tutorial may be found here; VT Fuel Line Replacement - Google Docs
A List of available aftermarket fuel line kits may be found here; Scroll down to “Fuel Delivery”

2) Spark Plugs. Another common issue is a faulty spark plug. Usually a ceramic insulator has broken, moved, or been damaged in some way. An incorrect gap or broken electrode are also common issues that can arise. Finding a completely fouled spark plug is much less common but like the other issues is easy to diagnose and fix.​
a. Diagnosing. To find if this is your issue you will need to pull out your spark plugs. You will want to try and make sure you know which cylinder each plug came from. Make a visual inspection of each plug by making sure the ceramic insulators are in good condition, checking the gap of each plug is at 0.028” and that all electrodes are intact, and seeing if all four plugs appear to have a similar “wear” or “patina” to them. If one or more plugs is completely black and covered in gas or oil you may have a fouled out plug. Take pictures and post them if you need confirmation on the possibility of a bad spark plug.​
b. The Fix. If one or more of your plugs appears to have broken then that is probably your culprit, it would be best to replace all of your spark plugs at this time. Buy new plugs, gap them to 0.028” and place them in the car. Hopefully your car has returned to normal.​
Disclaimer: If this is your Youtube video, please PM me so I may give credit to you.

3) Spark Plug Coils. The coils that Hyundai has used for our cars seem to have a short lifespan. It is not uncommon to find that one or more of your coils has gone out after 50,000 miles or so. To find out for sure can be a multi-part process.​
a. Diagnosing. You will again need an OBDII reader and appropriate app. If a coil is the issue you should either seeing a flashing Check Engine Light (while the misfire is occurring) or your CEL light is on. You will want to connect your OBDII reader and find out what code is being shown. A P030X in which “X” is the cylinder in which the misfire is occurring. (Cylinder 1 is located on the left side of the engine when looking at it from the front of the car, or the closest one to the oil filler cap.) The best thing to do is move the suspected coil to a new cylinder, clear the codes, and try to replicate the misfire. If you again get the misfire, pull the code. If you do indeed have a bad coil, the CEL code should change to match the new cylinder you moved the coil to.​
b. The Fix. To fix the issue simply replace the bad coil. Replacing just the faulty coil should be just fine, no need to replace them all unless you feel the need. Although if you have multiple coils that are faulty then replacing all of them at one time may be the best course of action. To source OEM coils either search one of the Hyundai OEM parts distributors or SoCal Garage Works, a supporting vendor.​

4) Dirty Valves. As our cars get older and thanks to the nature of GDi engines your valves will get dirty. There are things you can do to slow down the effects of this like a good oil catch can set-up, using high grade fuels, a quality air filter, and going by the factory recommended schedule of using Techron to clean things out.​
As the valves begin to get dirty they may no longer seat correctly, thus hampering air intake and exhaust flow and can create misfires. Diagnosing this issue is a little trickier as nothing may appear “wrong” but upon very close inspection by a trained eye things aren’t lining up. (Please note: this is a much more involved process, if you feel at all uncomfortable, it is recommended to have an experienced mechanic perform this diagnosis and repair.)​
a. Diagnosing. To begin you will need a borescope (similar to this). Pull out the ignition coils and spark plugs and guide the scope into the cylinder. (Alternatively you can try to remove the cold pipe and go through the throttle body, or remove the intake manifold.) You will no doubt see that there is carbon build-up. The main thing is seeing if the valves are seating correctly. If you see gaps between the valve and head then there is major build-up and will need to be cleaned.​
b. This Fix. Professional media blasting has been the most common over the years. This involves removing the head and blasting the valves with a “media” (usually walnut shells) to clean off the built up carbon deposits. This is a job for a professional mechanic.​
As this common GDI problem becomes more mainstream and more cars out there are using direct injection there are now more options arriving on the market. Chemical products that do not require removal of main engine components have begun to emerge and become more popular but with mixed results. Although they may be somewhat effective these chemicals have not yet reached the level of walnut blasting. They could however slow carbon buildup when used on a regular basis such as during oil changes or every other oil change.​


Conclusion
I hope this has been helpful, and as always if you have questions ask them. I am by no means and expert but I and many others on this board will do our best to help you with finding the source of your issues and getting them resolved. Not all misfires are caused by the above issues but the vast majority are. If your car is stock, or lightly modded and it still falls under warranty, then you may want to the dealership first. Some of these things can be costly and incorrectly diagnosing and “fixing” the issue can cause more problems. If you do not feel comfortable with this type of work then please consult a professional mechanic.
Sorry to revive such an old thread. When check a code reader for fuel pressure, would that be the Fuel Rail Pressure reading that im looking at? When the car is at idle the FRP sits between 5 and 600 and doesn't go above 1500 when reving. Should I be checking it while driving?
 

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Rail pressure at idle should be mid to upper 500's and under heavy load in upper rpm in the mid to upper 2100's. Otherwise the tune is commanding something different or there is issues with the car.
 

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Rail pressure at idle should be mid to upper 500's and under heavy load in upper rpm in the mid to upper 2100's. Otherwise the tune is commanding something different or there is issues with the car.
If thats the case, its not likely to be my fuel lines. I noticed the hose that runs from the intercooler to the throttle body was splitting, so I ordered that and will replace it when I receive it. My plugs and coils are fine, so the only thing I can think of is dirty intake valves. The misfire is only occurring on Cylinder 2, if that helps.
 

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Proper plugs and coils every 50k miles, proper plug gaps for the given tune and fuel, 91+ octane fuel.

If you do not know what proper is just ask as it can vary.
 

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Proper plugs and coils every 50k miles, proper plug gaps for the given tune and fuel, 91+ octane fuel.

If you do not know what proper is just ask as it can vary.
Only owned the car For 3k miles. Plugs are new, the dealer replaced those with NGK, and the gap is correct. Idk how to check the coils, so that could be it.
 

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Stock tune gap needs to be .028". Plugs need to be heat range 8 oem NGK plugs on the oem tune. Coils need to be oem only proper for the model year and less than 50k miles. Above this is where I see them start failing. Replace plugs and cos as sets and not just individually. Albert Hwang on FB has the best prices on all of this and generally less than a week to deliver to the USA from South Korea.
 

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Stock tune gap needs to be .028". Plugs need to be heat range 8 oem NGK plugs on the oem tune. Coils need to be oem only proper for the model year and less than 50k miles. Above this is where I see them start failing. Replace plugs and cos as sets and not just individually. Albert Hwang on FB has the best prices on all of this and generally less than a week to deliver to the USA from South Korea.
Yes I've read all this already. Plugs are fine. Correct gap and heat range. Coils are a question mark cause I only just bought the car. Im gonna test the coils before I drop 200 bucks on a new set of OEMs.
 

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So coils all appear functional. Swapped them around and codes didn't follow. Have cylinder 2 misfire and random misfire codes. Fuel rail pressures are normal. At this point my guess is dirty valves or vacuum leaks. Intercooler to throttle body hose is splitting and I see some hairline cracks in the vacuum line coming from the throttle body. If replacing those doesn't help, are there any good ways to diy walnut blast the valves? I've exhausted all the other options lol
 

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Have to be sure plugs are heat range 8 and correct gap. Heat range is easy to know by the plug number but for your car the oem heat range is not 8 as that will be a plug for a 16+ MY car which yours is not. Since the dealer replaced those I know for a fact they will not be a heat range 8 or gapped @ .028". There is a good reason why hyundai put heat range 8 plugs in the 16+ MY cars that have the same power output and same engine.

You have to actually gap the plugs as they will not always come at .028" even if marketed as that. Most oem plugs will not have .028" gaps as that is the low end of their acceptable gap range. Most I see will come in the . 03" - .032" area which is in the upper end of the acceptable range. Some have been wider than this. If gaps are wider especially on a hotter plug on an engine with higher miles and coils that have age on them then you're compiling issues that cause misfires. Mileage on the plugs keep at less than 50k miles and ensure gaps are proper at least 2-3 times during the plugs life.

Have to check coils across the terminals per the FSM to see if in spec. This may still not tell you if one is bad or not. Only sure method I've come up with is replacing proactively around 50k miles. Based on how the ecu operates on these cars you need to replace all coils or all plugs at the same time. Also a bad plug or coil in one cylinder will not always effect that cylinder which makes things more confusing.

Need to use 91+ octane fuel especially in the older cars due to the oem tune and having any buildup in the engine. Combined with any faulty/bad parts or plugs/coils out of proper spec it helps as extra insurance. Will make more power as well as slightly better mpg.

If you want to follow hyundai recommendations on parts/service and rely on methods to diagnose and fix cars from 2+ decades ago then be prepared to have more issues and spend more $ in the end.
 

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Cars no longer throwing the misfire code. Only misfires when I get on the power too hard. Gonna have the valves cleaned tomorrow and see if that helps. Also I checked the plug gap and I do run 91 octane. Good idea to check the coils at the terminals though, so ill do that.
 
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