[trdtoy]

Cars no longer throwing the misfire code. Only misfires when I get on the power too hard. Gonna have the valves cleaned tomorrow and see if that helps. Also I checked the plug gap and I do run 91 octane. Good idea to check the coils at the terminals though, so ill do that.

Define misfire when you get on the power too hard. Does this mean it sounded like it misfired to you or was there actual data of some sort that said that it misfires under too much power?

Checked the plug gap does not say that the gaps were .028". Nor does that say the plugs are heat range 8. That more says that neither are or were those specs.

Hope you get the valves walnut blasted and not a chemical clean through induction like most do. Induction chemical cleaning is not safe in many cases especially in many of these cars.

Keep in mind on the coils that checking the resistance even per the FSM may not help. By this I mean that you can't actually test the coils properly to know 100% if good or not without disassembling the coil itself and doing such would leave it inoperable. Best bet is replacing if you know or suspect they have 50k+ miles on them.

 

[trevorsinclair16]

Okay I'll be specific then. I checked the gap with a feeler gage and found the gap was .028 looked up the plugs and found they were heat range 8. NGK 1422. The same ones everyone says to get. I cant afford a walnut blast right now, so ill have to use chemical, not through induction, but by removing the intake manifold and spraying the valves directly. The check engine light that flashes during the sputtering and jolting when I get on the power is what tells me its a misfire, especially paired with the P0302 and P0300 codes it threw yesterday. I understand why its a good idea to just replace the coils if I don't know, but you also have to understand that some people don't have the money to simply throw parts at their car in hopes that it'll fix the problem. Thanks for the information. I'll figure it out from here. If all else fails, there's a possibly this might fall under my warranty anyway lol

 

[trdtoy]

This is the first time I've heard of a dealer installing non oem plugs in a car and gapping them from .022" to .028". If these are the plugs and gaps you'll be fine there on the stock tune.

You're best off not doing the chemical clean as that will save you $ to go towards what's actually needed.

See if covered under warranty first but not likely due to being a wear item if the coils. If the fuel line then some of those were replaced by the oem. Fuel line issue does not usually cause the flashing CEL or misfire codes though. The issue based on what you describe will be the coils and you need all 4. They're $200/set shipped from South Korea to your door in less than a week.

Don't worry, you're not the first nor last VT owner that "can't afford" to fix the car, that ends up spending more in the end to fix the car, or have something major occur and end up leaving the platform. Bottom line is if someone can't afford to maintain a car properly by being proactive then they do not need the car or they need to change how they budget $ to go towards maintenance.

Keep in mind that I work on, mod, tune, and maintain these daily at a performance/competition level so I probably know more than the avgerage Joe on the internet or most that work at hyundai or any general shop. When I say something it's normally spot on with the info I'm given unless I say otherwise that I'm joking etc.

 

[trevorsinclair16]

So I lucked out and found the oem coils on ebay for $38 each. They'll be here on Friday. The reason I ultimately caved was because I moved the coils around yesterday. And the cel came on today and told me that cylinder 3 was the one misfiring now. That tells me that that one coil is failing, so ill just replace them all. Still gonna clean my valves though cause thats never a bad idea lol. Speaking of valve cleaning. Anyone have a link to any threads on diy walnut blasting? The shops around here want to charge me like 300 bucks. And after spending 160 on my coils, my wallet is hurting until my next paycheck.

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[trdtoy]

Spend $38/coil to take a chance on getting a mediocre or bad coil than can cause engine damage or spend $50/coil for 100% known good and no damage.

Spend $ to chemical clean the engine which is less effective and not safe for the engine or spend $$ to do it properly and safely.

Spending the $200/set for known good coils is the 100% safe and sure bet to fix the issue at hand as I've said before and will be same or cheaper cost than what you're spending on the more unsafe route.

Unfortunately you're the type that learns by losing $ or having things fail which cost further $ yet complain about not having $ or things failing when it was your choices that caused everything.

 

[trevorsinclair16]

I'm not dumb enough to buy from non reputable ebay sellers. They sell exclusively oem hyundai and Kia parts and have tens of thousands of 5 star reviews. Seems even less sketchy to me than buying from some guy I've never met on FB. While chemical cleaning is not anywhere as effective as walnut blasting, it certainly won't damage your engine if you do it properly. Thats also why I asked if there was a way to walnut blast yourself, rather than paying the shops out here 3-400 bucks to do it for me. This car may be new to me, but im not new to cars. Ive only ever worked on my own cars. Trying to save money by finding the cheapest seller of a proper part does not make me an idiot, but judging and belittling others based solely on the questions they ask is not very nice.

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[trdtoy]

If you only knew the number of parts from eBay even from trusted sellers I've seen not work or fail prematurely you'd understand where I'm coming from. Some people do end up getting lucky though but not many get good parts that last or work well at a lesser cost than what I suggest. I hope you get lucky if you already purchased them. Only sketchy buying from a FB guy because you're new to the platform and have no clue who he is or the volume of parts he sells direct from hyundai/kia/mobis.

Chemical cleaning is not as effective or safe, and the carbon buildup you may have is not the issue anyway, so why spend the $ on a low effective method that can cause engine damage that's not needed anyway? Does not sound like a good idea especially if complaining about not having $ to afford things. Fyi chemical cleaning can cause deposits to go into the engine that can cause damage and the chemicals used cause misfires afterwards that can cause engine damage. Datalog plenty before/after a chemical clean different products and methods and see more misfires just after than before in most cases. Seen some with catastrophic damage as well.

I'm only advising the cheapest tried and true way to fix the issue and advising what not to do and why. Stating what not to do or simply repeating what you're doing is not meant to belittle you. Also not judging anyone or anything. I'm a straight shooter and call it as I see it based on facts/data stated so do not shoot the messenger.

I'm here to help everyone make their car run it's best and last the longest while spending the least $ possible. Knowing what I know and watch how people address issues with these cars can be entertaining at times but I'd rather not see people waste their time and $ or do things that may cause further damage.

Sorry if I come off as mean by trying to advise what to do and what not to do. I know being new to the car you likely know little about it or how to properly maintain it due to lack of research or knowing who to trust. Knowing general maintenance for other cars will only get you so far and everything does not apply here.

My advise since new to a platform is search this forum and read a lot. You'll read enough to know who you can trust or not trust. You will likely see my name come up as #1 to trust and if not then you probably have not read enough yet. ;-) Never be scared to ask questions. Also never apply anything you know from one platform to another.

 

[trevorsinclair16]

Interesting. Ive never heard of ivc hurting things unless you sprayed it pre turbo (though crc has a newer product thats supposedly safe for that too, but im still skeptical). Though the valves aren't causing my issues. Im sure those valves are gross since the car has 87k on it and I doubt that's something the dealer would've done. If its actually a bad idea then I'll avoid it. Im sure I can walnut blast myself for less than 400 bucks since shops out here are kind of insane.

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[trdtoy]

Interesting. Ive never heard of ivc hurting things unless you sprayed it pre turbo (though crc has a newer product thats supposedly safe for that too, but im still skeptical). Though the valves aren't causing my issues. Im sure those valves are gross since the car has 87k on it and I doubt that's something the dealer would've done. If its actually a bad idea then I'll avoid it. Im sure I can walnut blast myself for less than 400 bucks since shops out here are kind of insane.

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Search the forum here. I do recall someone posting walnut blast themselves and parts used. If you're not capable of doing it properly/done it before I would not attempt though. It will be worth having done professionally even if it is a few hundred $ but only if the buildup is bad. Address other issues before doing this that take priority though.

 

[trevorsinclair16]

So if its only misfiring when I step on it, should it be safe to drive the car if I baby it?

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[trdtoy]

Depends on if misfires at other times without you knowing. Also if misfire under load then matter of time that it does it more even in light load or idle. That time frame is more unknown than when the coils themselves usually start to fail. You can see how bad things are by viewing misfires per cylinder on a scan tool for current and last 10 drive cycles. Just keep in mind that every misfire causes some sort of damage to the engine.

 

[trevorsinclair16]

I'll look into how many misfires I'm getting, but since its my only method of transport rn and I have a job. Ill just have yo make sure I'm careful until those coils show up.

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[trdtoy]

Exactly

 

[trevorsinclair16]

Coils came in today, she's running good as new. Thabks for the help @trdtoy

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[trdtoy]

Fingers crossed it lasts

 

[trevorsinclair16]

I'm fairly confident. All coils came new in box still sealed with hyundais little holographic sticker. Still not necessarily a guarantee I suppose, but based on seller reviews paired with everything looking legit, I should be okay.

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[Opelken]

Yesterday I got a CEL for Cam Timing Position Sensor: Over-Advanced Timing.

Happened at about 35mph steady speed in average traffic. No physical felt change, just the CEL came up.

I reset the CEL since it drove fine almost 70 more miles.

No idea what really happened, was told "timing belt stretched most likely" by an older mechanic here at work.
Been having issue after issue once I hit 70k on the odo.

These engines use a timing chain instead of a belt. These generally don't stretch, except with very hi miles or extreme operating conditions.

 

[NoXiDe]

I got a hairline crack in the lower pan causing an oil leak and misfires on cyl 3. Labor repair is 19 hours to replace the lower pan and I'm not convinced that would have caused the misfire on cyl 3. 88K miles exact, last coil pack (oem) replacement done at 60K miles. Do we think I just got two separate issues or was there a true oil pressure difference from the hairline crack causing the misfire? I'm going to have the mechanic JB Weld the lower pan and sit for 48 hours. It would be $2,000 to fix if I decided to follow through with a brand new lower pan replacement. I'm also going to order the coil packs just to have them in case the issue continues.

 

[RPW00Mirage]

lol WHAT?

sounds like you are getting fucked. it's 50 bucks for an oil pan, 15 bucks for hondabond (or whatever equivalent hyundai uses) and most likely 1-2 hour replacement with 24 hour or less bond set time.

 

[Opelken]

First, I have never heard of an oil leak causing a misfire. Also, if you have a minor crack in your lower oil pan,that pan is steel. Perhaps you're thinking of the upper oil pan. Hyundai doesn't list that as a separate item but as part of the block assembly.
I got a replacement for mine for $150 off the web from a salvage yard. JB welding the crack in the upper pan should be no problem. Then, the lower pan can be reinstalled with new sealant and everything should be good, as there is only crankcase pressure on the aluminum upper pan. Replacing it does require pulling the engine or at least separating it from the transmission and removal of the timing cover before it can be removed.
I think the misfire on no 3 is a totally separate issue.