Veloster Turbo Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Vehicle theft is becoming a larger problem in my hometown, so I'm planning on adding a simply killswitch in place of one of the ignition fuses in the cabin fusebox. Pretty simply, I'll use a blade connection to hook into one of the terminals where the original ignition fuse was located, run that to an in-line fuse holder, then to a switch, which'll run back to the other side of the original fuse terminal. Questions are these:

I still need to try pulling fuses and make sure that pulling (one of) the ignition fuse(s) actually prevents the car from starting, but since I'm not going to try actually hotwiring the car (like a thief would likely do) and just try starting it with the push button, will the way I'm planning on setting up the wiring work? That is to say, will disconnecting the ignition circuit with a switch actually prevent the car from being started via hotwire, or is tapping into a different fuse a better option? Yes, I know that a complete battery switch would be the preferable option, but this seems simpler and meets the criteria I have listed in the next point for switch location.

Where would you put an ignition killswitch in a '13 VT? Right now I'm thinking passenger side of the center console trim, down towards the rear of the passenger seat. Semi concealed, but meets all of the criteria I have for a switch:
-Reachable from the drivers seat (without overly contorting myself)
-Not immediately visible with a cursory glance around the cabin (If you were trying to hotwire a car and it didn't start, where would you look?)
-Minimal modification to the vehicle trim
 

·
Super Moderator
2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
Joined
·
4,806 Posts
I can tell you where to put one in a pm as that way a robber could not do a quick Google search and find it lol!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Open to any ideas. Although, since it's debadged, there's no way anyone will be able to tell it's a Veloster, and there's no way anyone will find this forum without that information 😎
 

·
Super Moderator
2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
Joined
·
4,806 Posts
Just because debadged does not mean much. Pm me
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,545 Posts
don't ever post anything online...

106383


hahaha jk

are they using a fob scrambler to get the car to unlock and start? you have a proxy key that's your first best defense right now.

there is always the flip of the fusebox switch

or just taking a few fuses with you. sure beats wiring.
 

·
Super Moderator
2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
Joined
·
4,806 Posts
All true
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The fusebox switch is something I didn't consider, but tbh I'm more concerned about someone breaking a window and trying to hotwire it versus a more skilled attack. I would imagine that someone with the time and know how would be able to eventually defeat just about anything I tried short of an actual security system, but I'd settle for defeating anyone just trying to make a quick getaway, whether it's hotwiring or stealing the keys.

I'll probably use the fusebox switch in conjunction with an ignition killswitch. I don't think the wiring should be too difficult, and I'd like the solution to be a little faster than having to climb out and get down to pull fuses (which, if I'm being especially paranoid, someone watching the car could see, which would lead them to investigate and render it all for nothing). Your help is much appreciated. :)
 

·
Premium Member
2016 Veloster Turbo DCT w/ Tech Package
Joined
·
67 Posts
Are you trying to thwart someone that would be dumb enough to be stumped because they can't identify the car due to being debadged or are you trying to thwart someone that would be smart enough to steal a car with a proximity key? You cannot just hotwire these cars. If you are curious how smart the proximity key system is, buy a new key fob and try to program it yourself. Even with the right equipment you will likely trip the scanning safeguards once or twice. If someone really wants your car, they are going to pull up with a tow dolly and be out of there in about 20 seconds and they will figure out how to start it later, if they even keep it as opposed to just parting it out.
Subscribe to blue link. If you car is stolen they can locate it just like lowjack and/or slow the car and stop it if it is being driven. It is almost impossible to prevent a car from being stolen. Your next strategy then becomes trying to get it back in as close to its original form as possible.
If you really want a kill switch of sorts, on previous cars such as my old hot rod GMC my strategy was to kill the fuel flow so if someone could get far enough to trying to crank it to start, it would just keep turning over and never fire and then I would hear it and ...
Never even had that happen though, I would just forget about the switch sometimes and annoy myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The joke here is that you wouldn't be able to find this Killswitch thread on a Veloster forum without the huge veloster badge on the back of the car.

I'll take your word for it on the security of the key fob, but the extra peace of mind for me (especially if my keys are stolen) is worth the ~$20 of materials. Additionally, Blue Link is going offline for my year (2013) at the end of 2021, and thus far it's been at least a month of waiting for it to be activated in the first place because of issues with the blue link registration system, as I found out after I called them when my application went two weeks without a response.

You're right, a fuel pump switch would be better, but at a guess would not prevent the car from starting (Mine ran for a couple minutes at idle with no fuel pump fuse, no idea how long it would run once you started pushing the throttle).
 

·
Premium Member
2016 Veloster Turbo DCT w/ Tech Package
Joined
·
67 Posts
You're right, a fuel pump switch would be better, but at a guess would not prevent the car from starting (Mine ran for a couple minutes at idle with no fuel pump fuse, no idea how long it would run once you started pushing the throttle).
I'm guessing you are referring to the HP FP fuse in whichcase the LP FP would still be pumping fuel. It can actually be driveable that way though it will be really sluggish. Might give you a chance to chase them down. :)
My old GMC was carbureted so the fuel pump killswitch would leave someone with whatever fuel was in the float bowls. There were a couple times that I forgot to flip the killswitch and I found that I would get about 2 blocks before it would starve.

I have lived in some areas that were very prone to car theft, especially back in the old days when someone didn't really have to know anything about a specific car to steal it. Hotwiring wasnt even very common then. Most thieves just did the jam-a-screwdriver-in-the-ignition-switch routine. Even then the approach for owners was more about trying to get the car back if it was stolen. Ended up hearing about a lot of unorthodox approaches mostly around trying to get the car noticed by the police if it was stolen. People would do stuff like take their license plates off when they parked so the thief would be driving a car without plates, or pull the brake light fuse/disconnect the brake pedal connector so the car would be driving without brake lights, rig the horn to come on when the car was started if a switch wasn't flipped first... I could start a whole separate thread! lol
 

·
Registered
2015 RB Accent-not so stock 🤫
Joined
·
464 Posts
I've got a kill switch installed on my car and it works perfectly as long as the car has been shut off and not running.
5C98CCE3-5D7A-4490-BF81-3AAA9566F28A.jpeg 2B5095E1-A146-4588-A065-9918A2425FDF.jpeg 0410DF7C-C0E3-4A47-B7D5-9B112DA6C0E6.jpeg 56576527-CE2A-410C-8F6B-CD7F29F778EE.jpeg

The alternator is fused with a 70 amp Maxi fuse and the main power cable is also fused with a Bussman 100 amp AMG fuse in case of any accident cutting through the wires.

For now it's a theft deterrent for the car but installed this for track use as a kill switch.
My only issue is when the car is running and I turn off the kill switch the car keeps running. 🤔🧐🙄
I've trouble shot the electrical system for the ground or connection causing the car to continue to run and it is running off the alternator somehow through a feed back circuit that I can't locate. 😫😞

Once the car is turned off and the kill switch off there is zero voltage anywhere on the battery or alternator for a complete dead circuit.

I've done kill switches before, one on my Z24 drag car as I moved the battery to the truck, and another on a buddies Neon SRT4 drag car which both of them passed tech at the track and worked perfectly.

This one not so good but as an effective theft deterrent and battery kill switch for long term storage it's great. Sure beats disconnecting your battery every time I get back on the road for a month. 👍

Oh and I'm doing the same in my on my Honda motorcycle for theft deterrent. Much simpler wiring on the bike for sure. 😂🤷🏼‍♂️👍
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top