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Downpipe keeps blowing off

6.6K views 49 replies 12 participants last post by  ohyougyote  
#1 ·
Second time in two months
Dealer called me said they tightened the studs in good faith no charge but reccomeneds that I remove the Forge BOV and put the stocker in
I'm glad they did it because last time it cost me 200 $$
My thing is I wanna keep my forge.. No one else has this issue I wanna know that I can do to stop the studs from backing out
I had an issue back in January where the shop that out my 845 downpipe in snapped all the studs..
Took them 12 hours to fix it drill out and retap the holes and they pulled the turbo..and cost me a bunch of money then when I got a cel with the down pipe I knew I had to just recoupe some money back..

Any ideas would be great I love my forge and honestly don't think it's the issue..
 
#2 ·
Regarding the forge bov, mention the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act to the dealer. They have to prove the bov was the cause of any failure before they can deny a warranty claim.
 
#3 ·
They put the downpipe back on and replaced the studs free of charge...
They just told me that it could be the problem
 
#6 ·
It sounds as if the redone
Took them 12 hours to fix it drill out and retap the holes
stud holes are the problem.

Studs should not
I wanna know that I can do to stop the studs from backing out
be backing out. That's why studs are employed.

Most likely the holes are enlarged and the threads are caput. Loctite cannot help in this situation.

There are a number of ways to solve this problem.

1) Go to the next size up in diameter studs, thread the hole accordingly and this can necessitate drilling out the mating part.

2) Weld the studs in place.

3) drill the hole clean and use a bolt and nut to hold the parts together.

This is not an all inclusive list to make the repair necessary to make it work.

***
 
#10 ·
They didn't charge me full price
It was getting to become a fight and I paid 1/4 of the actual labor cost
took them 12 hours.

Sucks like I said on the FB group i could bash them and shit but it won't help
Shop was Grainite State Dyno and Tune

the dealership is just blaming the bov because it is aftermarket anyone who understands turbocharging would not say that. Your studs not holding is all related to the first downpipe install, who tightened the bolts the first time, as you said this had happened twice
I know the dealerships being tards.. Explanation of why it's happening made me laugh to
Saying the BOV is creating extra pressure and more power blowing the downpipe off
I laughed and told the Service advisor if he even knew what he was talking about
And he told me the tech who worked on my car is a big evo guy and that's what he said
I was like K Thanks for the good faith repair !! Lol


The shop that attempted the downpipe install fucked it up and tied to fix it
And now months later clearly it was a hacked job
Now I'm SOL
I'm calling GSD on my break and seeingn what can be done
 
#9 ·
the dealership is just blaming the bov because it is aftermarket anyone who understands turbocharging would not say that. Your studs not holding is all related to the first downpipe install, who tightened the bolts the first time, as you said this had happened twice
 
#11 ·
Yeah if you knew the performance shop f'ed it up, I'm sorry, but I would have never taken it to the dealer. If there is any kind of warranty on the work at that performance shop, I would've definitely held them responsible. I'm going to assume you have a Tork DP. I know from experience that that elbow is a massive MFer. ALTHOUGH, I read through the service manual for accessing the turbo/lower intake/turbo coupler (elbow) and it actually says to remove the lower motor mount, support the engine and lower it some. When I go round #2 on the DP install, I'm probably going to go that direction.
 
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#12 ·
It was a 845 when they first were released
I sold it to recoupe money
I just contacted the shop got the voicemail left one explaining everything and asking for a solution to the problem
 
#16 ·
I did have a serious MF'ing time with the O2 sensors. The places they had the wires strapped to are well unreachable and not enough slack to spin them out.
 
#17 ·
The install on torks was easy for me lol i cut a wrench in half and used a penetrating oil. Unplug the o2 sensors and take them with the dp. It took maybe an hour to remove and install.

I would demand that speed shop replace what ever the f-d up. You have the receipt and proof right?
 
#20 ·
I don't have the recipet. The recipet they gave me had no write up it was a generic receipt
I do have the cc statement showing the 400 I spent and I'm the only VT they have had their..
Sucks
But I know who touched my car
I spent 12 hours waiting for it
 
#19 ·
Welp no call from the shop so I showed up
Owner who I dealt with when this happened wasn't around
The counter guy basically told me that they could only loctite it..
They use bolts instead of studs with a nut at the end
I'm gonna demand they do it properly weld the studs in and if that doesn't work then I'm sol I'll need a new turbo unit..
Downpipe already fell off again and according to the tech at hyundai they told me the holes were in bad shape
 
#25 ·
Hell of a position

We can all give you this advice or that advice, simple enough, we're not living it,..you are.

The choice will be yours whether to:

1.Invest the money to return it to serviceability by the dealers standards, which you alluded to,...(LABOR-LABOR-LABOR). Any legitmate fix will invlove the necessity of QUALITY unfettered non-contortionist access to drill, tap, weld and the like. That means possibly dropping the engine. **Dealer would do it this way.

2.Use some type of J-rig which would totally void your turbo warranty I'm sure if they looked at it. (Even though its after). You weld, V band whatever,..your done!

It depends if your in the long haul, and under what context.

3. Do you personally know any master techs like Zex,..it never ceases to amaze me how some individuals can tackle a seemingly insurmountable problem with a very simple approach.

***Are you the guy that had like IATs from hell too???
 
#26 ·
We can all give you this advice or that advice, simple enough, we're not living it,..you are.

The choice will be yours whether to:

1.Invest the money to return it to serviceability by the dealers standards, which you alluded to,...(LABOR-LABOR-LABOR). Any legitmate fix will invlove the necessity of QUALITY unfettered non-contortionist access to drill, tap, weld and the like. That means possibly dropping the engine. **Dealer would do it this way.

2.Use some type of J-rig which would totally void your turbo warranty I'm sure if they looked at it. (Even though its after). You weld, V band whatever,..your done!

It depends if your in the long haul, and under what context.

3. Do you personally know any master techs like Zex,..it never ceases to amaze me how some individuals can tackle a seemingly insurmountable problem with a very simple approach.

***Are you the guy that had like IATs from hell too???
Lol yep they've come down a bit with a little bit of mods though :)
And they need to figure this out. I'm giving them the chance they are a well known reputable shop around here for subarus supras and nissans
 
#31 ·
Demand to talk to the owner. Be stern but not wild! Have you threatened with small claims court. And tell them you will seek full refund plus pain and suffering! Lol if they do fix it still file a fraud claim on your card. They defrauded you! I would write an article to have put in the paper and put signs out front on the road, saying "they will damage your car for a reasonable pride!" :) i her that would make them do something!
 
#32 ·
#45 ·
It's fixed but they charged me 230$
The owner is on vacation this week and the stand in guy is dense as hell
 
#47 ·
Did you use credit card? File a claims on both charges! Get that money back! Just explain to the cc what happen with the 400$ and say they broke your car and was charging you for their mess! Then act like you didn't even approve the second charge bc it was their mess up they were fixing again!