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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought this car new in 2015. I use it as my daily driver and already have almost 45K miles on it. It was from reading posts in this forum, I was able to mod this ride without any issues. Do the basics to protect your investment and you'll be rewarded with a fun driving car

Engine:

ADD1 OCC
CERMA Treatment all around. Engine, turbo, fuel, transmission.
Red Line M/T 85 Synth trans fluid
PUP / Rotella T6 Synth motor oil. Depends on availability.
Tork 3.5” Big Gulp SRI
Tork pipe
Tork HF Catted Downpipe
Tork Stage 1 Tune
HKS M45XL Plugs

Suspension:

Piece Rear Sway Bar
Tork collars
Rear motor mount Performance 65A
Stock wheels w performance lug nuts
BF Goodrich T/A's rubber

Exterior:

Stock w impressive window tint

Audio:

Stock

Future mods:

Tork EBCS
Strut bar brace
Water/meth injection
SXTH front crash bar
Hella horns (open to suggestions)


IMG_0734.JPG IMG_0735.JPG IMG_2068.JPG
 

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How do you like that Lower engine mount? does it transmit much vibration thru the steering or pedals?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I love it actually. It did away with the wheel hop I was experiencing with the oem mount.

The one I have is the softer of the 2 out there. From everything I read on here, the harder one,75A, transmits quite a bit of vibration through the pedals. The 65A did initially vibrate a bit but once it set, vibrations went away.
 

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I love it actually. It did away with the wheel hop I was experiencing with the oem mount.

The one I have is the softer of the 2 out there. From everything I read on here, the harder one,75A, transmits quite a bit of vibration through the pedals. The 65A did initially vibrate a bit but once it set, vibrations went away.
Good to know. Yea the wheel hop sucks. That'll be on the list after the LCA's get sorted
 
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Discussion Starter #5
As you are trying to minimize your warranty visits, you should take a moment to read through Gaijin’s Cerma thread. There’s a lot of valuable and useful info in there. You will want to do the Cerma Treatment as well as the Nano Treatment. After the Treatment, continue using your regular oil. Also don’t forget to go synthetic on the transaxle. Red Line M/T is the way to go there. 2nd to 3rd shift smooths out eventually as a result.
 

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As you are trying to minimize your warranty visits, you should take a moment to read through Gaijin’s Cerma thread. There’s a lot of valuable and useful info in there. You will want to do the Cerma Treatment as well as the Nano Treatment. After the Treatment, continue using your regular oil. Also don’t forget to go synthetic on the transaxle. Red Line M/T is the way to go there. 2nd to 3rd shift smooths out eventually as a result.
You know i did some googling about Cerma and keep receiving mixed responses. I've always been a believer in run what they tell you and dont over think it. However, with the time ive spent working for in dealerships I do start to wonder why they wouldnt just sell "good enough to make it thru warranty" products, seeing as the industry typically pumps out more new cars than they sell. Which basically puts them into building planned obsolescence. I'm gonna do more reading and talk to the woman see what she thinks, its her car her money her call.

As far as synthetics go, in this day and age using dino fluids anywhere seems foolish to me. I run full synthetics in everything, even down to my oil burning 84 diesel vw.
 
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As you are trying to minimize your warranty visits, you should take a moment to read through Gaijin’s Cerma thread. There’s a lot of valuable and useful info in there. You will want to do the Cerma Treatment as well as the Nano Treatment. After the Treatment, continue using your regular oil. Also don’t forget to go synthetic on the transaxle. Red Line M/T is the way to go there. 2nd to 3rd shift smooths out eventually as a result.
Take the Gailjin thread for what it is worth... i think he loved the stuff so much he drank it... I will say i have used both treatments in my car... why not since its added insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You know i did some googling about Cerma and keep receiving mixed responses. I've always been a believer in run what they tell you and dont over think it. However, with the time ive spent working for in dealerships I do start to wonder why they wouldnt just sell "good enough to make it thru warranty" products, seeing as the industry typically pumps out more new cars than they sell. Which basically puts them into building planned obsolescence. I'm gonna do more reading and talk to the woman see what she thinks, its her car her money her call.

As far as synthetics go, in this day and age using dino fluids anywhere seems foolish to me. I run full synthetics in everything, even down to my oil burning 84 diesel vw.
The thing I like the most about the Cerma treatment. you do it once and forget it. You don't have to use their oil at all. It's supposed to bond to the porous metal surfaces of the engine innards and create a teflon like coating. Less friction hence less heat.

Speaking of 84 vw diesels, Shell Rotella T6 is also a good option for oil in our cars. It's my go to when I am unable to source an affordable Pennzoil Ultra Premium.
 

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ZDDP confirmed as an LSPI quencher
The most widely reported LSPI quencher additive type is zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP). However, the phosphorus constraints imposed in lubricant specifications to protect three-way catalyst (TWC) equipment make it unrealistic to use high levels of ZDDP to reduce LSPI.

Infineum increased the phosphorus level from 0.05% to 0.19% in the test oil. ZDDP has an exponential decrease in LSPI activity - higher levels of ZDDP reduced over 90% of LSPI events compared to the number that occurred with the 0.05% ZDDP oil, confirming ZDDP as an LSPI quencher.

Diesel oils are my go to, tho they can pose problems with stock cat converters due to the extra zinc (zddp)

I'll talk to her about it, but I dont know how hyundai engineers feel about 5w40.

I run 15w40 Syn for heavy rigs in my rabbit, audi and swapped cabrio. Smooth as butter and still cranks umpteen times better than a conventional equiv in the cold
 

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Duplicate posts... Where is the source article/link?

I've read numerous LSPI articles on SAE (sae.org) and used them to come up with my anti-LSPI recommendations, so naturally I'm interested in anything related.
 

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Yea I'm aware. the edit/ delete button is broken, as is reply with quote etc.

anywho, I forget where that was but I'll see if i can find it again.

Its not a great solution unless youre catless. the T6 ate my high flow cat and a stock cat in 2 of my cars...
 
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Until more oil manufacturers come up with Ca-based additives that are not LSPI promoters (and also test for the GF-5 Plus and GF-6 specs), it's more prudent to focus on reducing overall Ca percentage rather than add more ZDDP. As the summary surmises, adding too much ZDDP will wreck cats.

Enough hijacking of the OP's build thread, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hijack away. I am learning something here.

Bonusparts, you're the first I have encountered that has experienced what I would consider serious issues/consequences by using T6.

so..... yes T6 or no T6?
 

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Realistically most people dont service their exhaust systems enough to notice. It didn't affect performance. The catalysts just began turning to dust. One was a magnaflow unit on my 6cyl jetta, that was on the car from 45k - 65k. During that time i ran T6 5w40 (blue bottle) until about 55k, at which point i switched to royal purple 15w40 duralec. I needed something better suited for the climate I was in out in Colorado. Fast forward to last year, wrecked the jetta and pulled the drivetrain. Cat was dusty and middle of catalyst was free floating in the shell.
Other vehicle was my Cabrio, that was at 81k when I got it and switched to the 15w40 royal purple duralec also. That I ran for only one oil change. When i pulled the engine to swap in the vr6 from my wrecked car this summer, i found the same dusting condition in the catalyst.

Neither car was like that when I got them, as both had exhaust systems installed on them. Now the cabrio is swapped, its got a test pipe and diesel oil is doing me just dandy!

I didn't see if there was any negative effect on my Audi as both cats were removed at a shop as i needed new flex pipes welded in. That runs the 15w40 diesel oil also.

I run a product called Triax. Its a lesser known brand, but it seems to be doing quite solidly. I will be sending samples in to blackstone. I change oil every 10k with a filter and top off halfway thru. Thats across all 3, Rabbit, Audi, Cabrio.

Its not a matter of the specific product from rotella. The issue comes from the ZDDP additives in diesel oil (and some others) that you wont find in typical oil products (or in as high of concentration). They do that due to the typical use of flat tappets in diesel engines as well as the extra vibrations due to being a compression ignition type engine. Beyond that the contamination of the oil is much greater on a diesel engine.

I wouldn't be too concerned unless your vehicle has a tendency to consume oil (i find that 1qt in 5k miles to be tolerable. the industry especially VWOA would argue otherwise, more to the tune of a few qts in that timeframe)
 
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