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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My engine popped at around 62k. P0300, p0301, p0303. 3rd cylinder cracked. Has been rebuilt and is still having the same issues.

At high rpm under WOT at around 6000rpm it will sputter and backfire. Usually backfire sounds a machine gun and is not just one pop.

Got another p0300, p0301 after rebuild, no others since then. No other codes. 2500-3000 miles since rebuild and since misfire code thrown.

Also not showing any misfires in torque when testing.

Trying to find the cause of backfire and sputter at high rpm.

Engine has been sleeved by iron eagle, forged pistons, forged rods & heat studs, new gasket kit, new fuel pump, new stainless braided fuel line, 4x new coilpacks, 4x new hyundai injectors and 2x cam sensors.

Everything else feels great when driving. Is only when at WOT and it hits high rpms in any gear.

Tracking down this problem is driving me crazy and hyundai service is worthless.

Log File -> problem happens twice at 7:08 pm
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Lpq-94_gVc06x93SxSCofVdAl1qNXeC/view?usp=sharing
 

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More info on mods and when/how/under what conditions this occurs. Data logs would help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
More info on mods and when/how/under what conditions this occurs. Data logs would help as well.
Mods:
6EE 3.5" SRI, Tork Catless Downpipe, Magnaflow Catback, 854 FMIC, HKS BOV, Resonator Delete, HKS M45 Plugs, Saikou Michi Dual OCC, 60mm TB w/Coolant Bypass, CP Pistons, Molnar Rods, Block Sleeved by Iron Eagle, Stainless Braided Fuel Line, Aeromotive 325 Stealth Fuel Pump, Snow Stage 3 Methanol Injection, 6EE Raptor Turbo. Tune by 6EE.
New Injectors x4, New Coilpacks x4.

Only happens during WOT under high RPM @ around 6000RPM in any gear.
Driving on the highway at 70-80MPH if you go WOT about the time it hits 6000RPM at 100 MPH it will start sputtering and backfiring. If you let off it finds a lower RPM it lakes and gets back to business. Gradual acceleration thru the same RPM range does not have the same result. If starting at lower speed and go WOT in any gear it repeat. Car is running very smooth otherwise. Traction control is always OFF. DW fuel pump does the same thing. Plugs are gapped correctly at .028.


LOG:
Log File -> problem happens twice at 7:08 pm
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Lpq-94_gVc06x93SxSCofVdAl1qNXeC/view?usp=sharing

I will post more logs tomorrow depending on the weather here.
 

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Need a log of a few 4th gear pulls from 3k to red line. And only certain things being logged for better data set. From limited data you have here it may just be tune related but hard to say if hard part related unless more data/better data is had.

Plugs need to be a little tighter gap but should be ok there. Any boost leaks? Can hooked up correctly and empty? Meth kit being used at all here? If so all specs needed for that. Premium fuel used? Oil used and mileage on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Need a log of a few 4th gear pulls from 3k to red line. And only certain things being logged for better data set. From limited data you have here it may just be tune related but hard to say if hard part related unless more data/better data is had.

Plugs need to be a little tighter gap but should be ok there. Any boost leaks? Can hooked up correctly and empty? Meth kit being used at all here? If so all specs needed for that. Premium fuel used? Oil used and mileage on it?
No leaks, boost holds steady. Cans are correct. Meth not being used. Oil is Pennzoil PUP, which was just changed. AMSoil break-in oil and regular was used after rebuild.

What data paramaters would you like to see that are not in spreadsheet?

It's icy out now. Will post data after ice melts.
 

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Fuel cut, fuel rail psi(should be reading around 570 idle and 2,180 wot), knock detected, knock ret cyl 1-4, afr commanded and measured, engine coolant temp, engine load absolute, engine rpm, throttle position manifold, timing advance, turbo boost/vacuum.

No need for anything else to log.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Fuel cut, fuel rail psi(should be reading around 570 idle and 2,180 wot), knock detected, knock ret cyl 1-4, afr commanded and measured, engine coolant temp, engine load absolute, engine rpm, throttle position manifold, timing advance, turbo boost/vacuum.

No need for anything else to log.

Which PID is this "knock ret cyl 1-4"?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Fuel cut, fuel rail psi(should be reading around 570 idle and 2,180 wot), knock detected, knock ret cyl 1-4, afr commanded and measured, engine coolant temp, engine load absolute, engine rpm, throttle position manifold, timing advance, turbo boost/vacuum.

No need for anything else to log.
1st run started around 3kRPM. The other three runs around 4kRPM.
Runs 1,3,4 had backfires/stutter/hesitation.
Run 2 went thru pretty smoothly.

I am seeing AFR's in the 9's in runs 1,3,4.

Run #1 > Line 11
Run #2 > Line 102
Run #3 > Line 209
Run #4 > Line 306



New Logs: --> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IX-uYHgCoyQh9WaFOGwMHkiBmzJ3KxLI/view?usp=sharing
Screenshot_20180117-135745A.png Screenshot_20180117-135752B.png
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Which PID is this "knock ret cyl 1-4"?
Need the hyundai advanced plug in. It will be a PID for each cyl listed near top of list.

25, 10, 23, and 6 are not good numbers for misfires on each cyl for current drive cycle. All should be 0 or low single digits at worse.

Based on log info thus far it could be tune related, spark plug, coil pack, or injector issue. Boost leak could also still be a possibility.

Have Mark review the tune to be sure everything is 100% to cover you bases there first.

Pull your plugs and post pics of them and check to be sure all are gapped the same in the .024"-.026" area.

Check resistance across all coil packs when cold and with motor hot to be sure they're the same.

I would like to see a few logs with knock retard on each cyl as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Which PID is this "knock ret cyl 1-4"?
Need the hyundai advanced plug in. It will be a PID for each cyl listed near top of list.

25, 10, 23, and 6 are not good numbers for misfires on each cyl for current drive cycle. All should be 0 or low single digits at worse.

Based on log info thus far it could be tune related, spark plug, coil pack, or injector issue. Boost leak could also still be a possibility.

Have Mark review the tune to be sure everything is 100% to cover you bases there first.

Pull your plugs and post pics of them and check to be sure all are gapped the same in the .024"-.026" area.

Check resistance across all coil packs when cold and with motor hot to be sure they're the same.

I would like to see a few logs with knock retard on each cyl as well.

I will add more logs tomorrow. Those PID's weren't loading in but are now.

I just got the car back from Mark. He did the rebuild and has gone through the tune 100 times at this point. This is what the car did before the rebuild as well. I just took the car back too him and that's when we decided to install the new injectors as he had ruled out the other stuff. No difference after install. Coil packs are all new. Moving them around doesnt change anything. Plugs are brand new.
 

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I will add more logs tomorrow. Those PID's weren't loading in but are now.

I just got the car back from Mark. He did the rebuild and has gone through the tune 100 times at this point. This is what the car did before the rebuild as well. I just took the car back too him and that's when we decided to install the new injectors as he had ruled out the other stuff. No difference after install. Coil packs are all new. Moving them around doesnt change anything. Plugs are brand new.
Could still be plugs bad and/or not gapped properly. Will not know until you pull them and get good pics and measurements. This is where I'd start.

Could still be tune related but doubt it if it's been gone over that much.

Also boost leak is not out of the question either. Remove and clean all connections on charge side and be sure 100% install correct and leak free. This includes cleaning the BOV as theyre prone to cause issues like this.

Doubt it's coils or injectors if those were swapped for new ones and coils moved around and no changes.

Be 100% sure meth is not on, tank empty, and lines unhooked during these logs if you can. Just want to be 100% non is getting in there.

Clean all grounds and get upgraded wiring kit mentioned as well. The fueling and ignition system heavily rely on having good power/ground source to operate properly.

Fyi I think Mark and I already spoke before some a while back when motor was put in your car to trouble shoot and double check some things.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I will add more logs tomorrow. Those PID's weren't loading in but are now.

I just got the car back from Mark. He did the rebuild and has gone through the tune 100 times at this point. This is what the car did before the rebuild as well. I just took the car back too him and that's when we decided to install the new injectors as he had ruled out the other stuff. No difference after install. Coil packs are all new. Moving them around doesnt change anything. Plugs are brand new.
Could still be plugs bad and/or not gapped properly. Will not know until you pull them and get good pics and measurements. This is where I'd start.

Could still be tune related but doubt it if it's been gone over that much.

Also boost leak is not out of the question either. Remove and clean all connections on charge side and be sure 100% install correct and leak free. This includes cleaning the BOV as theyre prone to cause issues like this.

Doubt it's coils or injectors if those were swapped for new ones and coils moved around and no changes.

Be 100% sure meth is not on, tank empty, and lines unhooked during these logs if you can. Just want to be 100% non is getting in there.

Clean all grounds and get upgraded wiring kit mentioned as well. The fueling and ignition system heavily rely on having good power/ground source to operate properly.

Fyi I think Mark and I already spoke before some a while back when motor was put in your car to trouble shoot and double check some things.

Mark has pulled the plugs several times amd even changed them. Meth is not coming on. I hsve stage 3 and can up the numbers in the car so that it never comes on. Mark also took apart the BOV. Im not sure where all the grounds are in order to check them and I don't know what you mean by upgraded wiring kit.
 

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